Husky 142, trying to start after rebuild

Rugged made
Treestuff
shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
N

najones

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Oct 29, 2007
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Northern VA
I just rebuilt a Husky 142 Chainsaw that had cylinder damage from, I'm guessing, a poorly tuned carb.

After I had the engine mostly together, I sprayed some fogging oil in the intake hole(with carb off) and then I also put a bit of 2 stroke oil in there. I was worried about lubrication while it tried to start. After everything was put back together, I pulled the string a bit with the exaust off to let the oil spray out, which a bit of it did.

The carb is set with both high and low jets set to 1 turn out, and it doesn't really run. It sputters for a second, but then dies. Also, it smoked a lot as it was trying to start, which I'm sure was all the oil in it.

I was ran it for about 20 seconds by holding the throttle at wide open, but that was only getting it to run at idle, or maybe a litle faster. A bit later, I ran it for about another 10 seconds with the throttle at full before I decided to come as for help before I melt it down.

The good news is it is still smoking, so I'm pretty sure its still oily and cool, so I don't expect a meltdown.

Is there anything I should do? Does it take a while to blow out oil?

Thanks a bunch,
Nathan Jones
 
I decided to tear down the saw to inspect the piston/cylinder as my compression is only about 80#. Everything looks great, just like new (which it was yesterday.

I put it back together today, putting a small bead of RTV on the crankcase cover, then tightening it down until the rtv compressed a bit, then letting it sit for 1 hour before fully seating the cover. I didn't do this yesterday and just screwed the cover on with the RTV still fresh, I figured I would try something different.

The compression is still about 80, although when I first put it together yesterday, it felt a little bit higher when pulling on the string.

The motor runs, but only at wide open throttle with the engine only turning at idle speed, and only for about 20 seconds before it dies.

What could cause the low compression?
 
I see that you tried to replace the bearings, are those sealed up correctly? I am not too familiar with the internal workings of the 142. Do you have an IPL?

The bearings should have a seal around them.
 
Last edited:
najones said:
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HIPL/HIPL2005/HIPL2005_5440249-01.pdf

I was going to try to replace the bearings, but the cheap tool I ordered off ebay was the wrong size (it was only 4.70 shipped, so I gambled).

The seals are still in place around the bearings, and they are both facing inwards. The one bearing that I reused wasn't in bad shape, neither was the seal. :confused:

Thanks,
Nathan Jones
Click to expand...

From the IPL, it looks like the seals face outward. Page 3 on the IPL with the figure of the crank.
 
AT 80,you got a problem.Did you check if the ring is not stuck in the groove ?Any score or damage inside the cyl? Did you install the piston arrow facing exhaust because you could break the ring if backwards ?
 
Just curious, but is this your first rebuild? 80lbs is really bad, about half what you should have. Are you measuring it with a gauge made for small engines? They have a one way valve on them and little or no rubber hose going to the gauge.
 
Ahh, well that could explain some of the low compression.

My compression tester is made by K-D Tools. Probably this one: http://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-2428-Compression-Tester/dp/B0002SQW8Y

It has the one way valve, but it is made for a normal (full size) engine.

Still though, it doesn't want to run unless the throttle is wide open, then it just idles. The carb was opened up when the engine wouldn't start before the rebuild, I may need to look into that.

Does compression go up after the saw breaks in? How long does it take to break in and how much better should the numbers get?

Thanks
 
najones said:
Ahh, well that could explain some of the low compression.

My compression tester is made by K-D Tools. Probably this one: http://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-2428-Compression-Tester/dp/B0002SQW8Y

It has the one way valve, but it is made for a normal (full size) engine.

Still though, it doesn't want to run unless the throttle is wide open, then it just idles. The carb was opened up when the engine wouldn't start before the rebuild, I may need to look into that.

Does compression go up after the saw breaks in? How long does it take to break in and how much better should the numbers get?

Thanks
Click to expand...

If the valve is at the end of the hose that screws into the cylinder, it doesn't matter if it is for small engines or not.
 
Sounds like there is a good chance it isn't your compression, but a fuel delivery/mixture issue.
 
I was at walmart last night and I checked out how much force it takes to pull a Poulan chainsaw and it was about the same as this saw. I compared it to the poulan because everyone says that is basically what the 142 is.

I also checked the compression on a Homelite saw with a bigger motor and it was only a little higher, even though I know it runs well and has a ton of compression, so I'm sure it is my compression gauge.

Anyway, I still can't get it to run well, or really at all. My brother took the carb apart, and it was his first one, so I'm not positive that it didn't get damaged, but it looks fine. He blew some compressed air through the fuel line nipple, but apparently he only blew air from about 6 inches away. I've checked the jets and they look fine, as well as the fuel "bowl"(doesn't really ahve a bowl) spring and needle. Everything looks good but I don't think it is getting fuel. I'm now starting to believe it may have eaten up the last cylinder from whatever is wrong with it.

I am going to get a new fuel tank vent, but I really doubt that could be causing these problems. The vent should only influence it after it has been running for a while, not while you are trying to start it.

What about the fuel pickup on the end of the fuel line, do/can those go bad?

Thanks for all the help guys:cheers:
 
If you can

Lay hands on a carb that is working , on a running saw. Switch it to your saw and you will remove a lot of doubts. Had almost the same situation, driving me nuts. Switched out the carb with one known to be ok and cleared up everything. I never did get that carb to work. Bought a new one and pitched the original.
 
I may end up buying a new carb. I'd like to avoid it, but it may come to that.

The IPL I posted above has 2 carb numbers.
Page 3, #8: 530071987 Carburetor - W-29
and the last page: 530035269 Kit--Carburetor Repair (Zama)

The first one appears to be the carb, but the price is about $25 and online stores call it "KIT ZAMA CARBURETOR".

The rebuild kit is $24. Seems like a no brainer, although I can find the rebuild for that carb, a 1CQ for much cheaper if I go with the zama part number.
 
It very well could be that your fuel filter is clogged or you have a bad fuel line with a crack in it. I'd replace those before even thinking about getting a new carb. Also, you are almost definetely right about whatever is wrong now wrecking the saw earlier. Pistons don't just randomly get all messed up.
 

Similar threads

P
Carb Kit - Is this Walbro WTE 142 6B same as a WT-142?
Replies
8
Views
467
DND 9000
D
B
Husky 359 project
Replies
7
Views
517
bigtuna
B
A
395xp won't start after milling - has it overheated?
2
Replies
29
Views
3K
LuDookie
LuDookie
revving13500
Saw running poorly after deep clean
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
farmhard
farmhard
A
Stihl br420c backpack blower wont start
2
Replies
21
Views
671
AmericanBuilt
A

Latest posts

Back
Top