Husky 394 & 5, any perf parts out there?

[CanadianCarGuy]

I work as a faller and I use a husky 395 regularly, and recently a couple 394's that I built myself from the casings up. I ported a couple 395's before and this time I tried a bunch of new stuff with the 394's (they were free, so what the heck!). I use these 6.5 hours a day six days a week, sometimes seven.
Anyways, for these 394's I took 8grams off both the crankshaft counterweight and the piston, ported intake and exhaust (polished exhaust), ported the transfer ports, took out the head gasket, lightened the flywheel, advanced the timing, match ported the muffler and heat block to the head. I also tried a couple things that didn't work with the carbs, like filing down the venturi (not a good idea!). Now, I find myself wondering if there are any performance parts out there for the bigger husky's, like a big bore kit, a performance exhaust, can you re-jet the carb? Are there bigger ingnition coils or performance pistons for more compression?

Daniel

 

[husq2100]

hey mate, pretty interesting stuff. i don't have any anwers, only questions.
where did you get 8grams off the piston? and did you have to take this of the counter weight to balance the saw? how did you lighten the fly wheel. would this be such a good idea on something so light i would have thought that a bit of fly wheel weight would have been good.

any pics you have would be great and techniques you used.

cheers from a newb

serg

 

[romeo]

The short answer is NO. But that is what makes hot roding saws so much fun. The only real "hop it up" after market stuff you can get for any saw are bigbore kits (none for 394's and 395's), other than that you are just on your own.

 

[CanadianCarGuy]

I used an air-powered rasp to enlarge the openings of the piston skirt bracing and rounded off the skirts, trying to keep the skirt the same length while rounding the corners off, this way you won't get piston slap like you would if you completely removed the skirt completely (plus it affects the impulse for pulling fuel to the head). I use an electronic scale to measure the piston mass before and after I lighten it. Also I polish the top of piston smooth with sandpaper, then buff it with a wire wheel. I tried my last saw without taking weight of the crank, and it felt out of balance and didn't accelerate off idle consistantly. So I decided to try to take equal mass off of the crank with great results, the throttle response became similar to a smaller saw. Oh, and you MUST split the crankcase to lighten the crank, otherwise your bottom end bearings will go right away!

As for lightening the flywheel, it will reduce torque somewhat, but the throttle response will improve if it is still in balance. I left the flywheel alone on one of the 394's, and it is my favourite out of the two, but flywheel from the other saw had a couple fins broke off, so it cannot be properly balanced.

I have a few more ideas to try, but I am new to hopping up saws, so if they will work, I'm not sure.