Husqvarna 268XP exhaust issue. Common?

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GJohn86

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I bought a rebuilt 268XP recently. The saw is everything I want from a saw, but it's clear the guy who rebuilt it did little to no testing after the rebuild.

It weeps fuel, it wouldn't idle and now I've found the pressure waves blow the exhaust apart. It leaves a gap meaning hot gases escaped and melted the top cover!

Anyway, is this common? The exhaust is in two halves that just press together. One side bolts to the cylinder, the other is held in place by a weedy metal bracket bolted to the front of the body.

The pressure just blows the two halves apart. Anyone else suffered with this and what is the best fix? I'm considering two things, one is to make the bracket beefier. The second is a tack weld holding the halves of exhaust together.

Gaz

The photo is crap but you get the idea
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You can see the bracket on the front of the muffler in this picture. That is all that holds the front half of the muffler connected to the rear half (which is bolted to the cylinder).

There are no bolts holding the two together at all.

It would make sense if it's a cheap, crap aftermarket one.

Do the originals bolt together?

Gaz

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If its anything like my 272, both halves are sandwiched together and as said above the bolts act to pinch the two halves together. The bracket is meant only to stabilize the muffler a bit to take some stress off the bolts into the cylinder
 
The original muffler was welded together and held on like yours-with the 2 inner bolts. The bracket was just for support. Looks like yours was separated for some reason. With that outlet,it does not look oem. Older 61's had two piece mufflers that used much longer bolts that went through bracket and held from front of muffler. They were around 80mm give or take. You will be better off just getting regular oem or aftermarket muffler. They are almost always one piece. Otherwise you need bolt long enough to hold from front of muffler.
 
I've seen some cheap aftermarket mufflers made like that: they have the sorriest spot welding imaginable and are for all purposes kept together by the exhaust bolts. Generally they start leaking well before they blow up as in the first picture and are replaced before they can cause more damages.
 
I actually wouldn't mind if this was held together by the exhaust bolts but the bolts only actually hold the rear half of the clam shell in place. The front half is just an interference fit held in place by the bracket.

I raised it with the ebay seller and he was rather rude!

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As said before, I think I'll just get some really long bolts and washers and bolt it all together, with a spot weld on top for good measure.

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Don't the bolt holes line up between inner and outer parts? Can you not just wang in some longer m5/m6's or whatever they are?
 
Mate the muffler should have two large bolts that run from the front to the cylinder through crush tubes. These run through a screen plate and when tightened up hold the two halves of the muffler together very securely. The front bracket provides stability and support to the two long bolts so that all the force is not going through the two long bolts which would be susceptible to bending if the muffler got a knock.

These Husky mufflers are a simple and well established design. In practice the only thing that usually goes wrong is the bolts vibrate loose (easy fix with a dab of Loctite, or the little hole in the cases strips out as it is just tapped into the thin case wall.

Pull the muffler off and show us a picture of what you have, I am thinking that you have the back half of the muffler attached to the cyclinder with two small bolts and the only thing holding the front on is the bracket - if yes that's ******** and you need to get two long bolts that run all the way through and two crush tubes to stop you from collapsing the muffler when you tighten them up.

If someone "rebuilt" the saw this way they had no idea of what they were doing and I would expect a whole lot of other issues.
 

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