Husqvarna 350 chainsaw rebuild?

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EarlHotsaw

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Ive search and search for info on this topic. all help very much appreciated. Cylinder selection (fleebay,oem$$$ am) basicly got this saw given to me rather new just had the straight gas story pulled cylinder very scored piston and walls tried muratic acid and just need a cylinder simple enough... lol wrong main question mine is a closed port (from what ive learned) new to this. the transfer ports have removable covers with a gasket . most of the ebay cylinders that are dirt cheap do not have those covers or even the same shape some have cooling fins all the way down? this is very confusing and Ive even talked to Husqvarna basicly they know nothing about the saws there selling so advise from someone that has worked on these saws is much need to explain the cylinder differences and which one to buy. even the picture in the OEM page from partstree.com does not look like my cylinder??. I can tell the difference from either open port or closed port cylinders its just that even the closed port cylinder from oem diagrams does not look like mine (has 45L on top for what its worth) know the second problem I cant figure out which Year/mine is it does say epa on cover but does not have a green gas cap. simply says 350 on pull start. also one note it has the china carb??
 
There are a few threads here about putting a 346xp cylinder and piston in them.
 
thanks for all the replys, I will be going with either NWP or hyway the hyway is the only one not out of stock right. Im not seeing any gasket on the crankcase other than the caps the bearings go in (below cylinder I have the gasket) what seals up the crankcase (just so I don't burn up a new topend)
 
ive also heard that AM kits sometimes have different size ports for the intake boot what happens if mine wont fit how would get around this if this be a problem
 
does anyone know why some have screws and port covers on transfer ports and some do not
 
You will need to reseal the crank bearing area joint, that white stuff Husqy used leaks all the time- I must have re-built over 20 345/350 saws now that all leaked on that sealant. Everyone has an fav sealant, I like Loctite 515.
 
The top half of the crank case that the cylinder bolts to separates from the lower half of the crank case via 4 screws on the bottom of the saw. You will have to remove the fuel tank/handle assembly to get to the lower screws. Even if you do not plan to re-seal the crank case halves (you should do it) you should at a minimum pull the fuel tank so you can check that the four screws are tight.
I had a 350 come to me burnt up because one of the bottom screws was missing and 2 more were loose...
 

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