Husqvarna model 50 toasted piston

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redoakneck

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I have a husky model 50 (not sure what year but I will check) with a burnt piston and questionable cylinder. Tried search function to no avail. Parts for these seem difficult to find. Do they take the same as another model??? Anyone ever fix a lot of these? Saw is in great shape except the p/c.

I still need to check the seals. Not sure if I will be able to find replacement parts??
 
Ok, found a piston and p/c kit. Guess they are similar to the 51 and 55??

Yep. And have the same intake boot and impulse nipple problems that are typically failure points of the design resulting in the air leaks that eventually toast em if somethin' else doesn't. Easy fixes for around 9 bux.
 
Going over my options here, the 44mm original cylinder cleaned up nicely but the options for an after market 44mm piston are NWP only. Are NPW pistons OK?? I can also get a complete after market P&C kit from a sponser here, not sure who makes it for 80 bucks.

A kind member here also has a jug from a 51 that will fit the crankcase and I can get a meteor piston to fit that jug, these are 45 mm.

What is the difference in quality in OEM, versus these aftermarket items?? The saw is my son's eye doctors and I am fixing it as a favor for his excellent care of my sons eyes so I want to make it a high quality fix, the saw was his fathers and originally came from canada.

thanks
 
I would contact Baileys parts man. The early 50 (Mine is a 1984 whitetop rancher) had a different bolt pattern than the later models. (My newer one is a 1995) If your serial number tag is white aluminum, good possibility it will take a different jug than the newer model with the black serial tag number. Talk to a parts man to make sure what you have and what will fit it.
 
If you have one of the later model 50 saws, you can upgrade to the 53cc cylinder that fits on the 55 rancher. It is a simple bolt on that I did for my Dad on his old 50. The important thing here is to identify which model 50 you have. The early models had a smaller crankcase opening that would not allow the 53cc cylinder skirts to drop down inside. My saw was a 1987 model and it had the larger opening. The workshop manual Modified Mark sent me said it would only fit on 1989 and older models. The best way to know is to measure your opening.

In your case, your cylinder may be fine and I have used a golf piston with no complaints. If you ever want to do the cylinder swap............here are some links for refrence. Good ;uck.....these are good saws and worth the time to rebuild.


Husqvarna 50 big-bore upgrade question

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachme...50service1-pdf

Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's
 
Id try and stay with oem parts. NWP is a pretty low quality piston. I would highly recommend atleast the extra ten for the meteor piston which is far better quality then a NWP. I have seen quality NWP stuff and i have seen very poor parts from them, its a hit or miss. go meteor piston stock cylinder with mild port job and itll be better than she ever was.
 
Some of the 50s have different carb/choke/air filters than the 51/55, even the tank/rear handle assy is made different. Some of the 50s/50 Specials have the choke made into the top cover vs. a lever on the 51/55.
 
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I have a cylinder that should clean up for the cost of shipping. It does have some transfer and is for an early white top saw.
 
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Thanks for all the help. It does have an aluminum serial number plate, 6446033 are the numbers. The choke slide is on the black top cover. The cylinder bolt spacing is 46 mm front to back and side to side, and 65 mm on the diagonals. The case opening front to back is 49.5 mm where the cylinder drops in. The cylinder is 44mm and the piston measured 43.6mm.

Sounds like a call to baileys may be in order to find the right slug or see if I swap out a new p/c if there isn't a good slug to replace it.

The serial numbers described when looking up parts had a different number of numbers? Mine only has 7 numbers.

How can you tell what year it is???- by the serial number I presume??

You guys are awesome, saved me from prolly getting the wrong parts before I bought them!!!

cheers:D:D
 
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