If that was my saw I would put new crank seals in it and a carb kit along with fuel lines. I doubt the saw will need rings and probably wont for another 10-20 years unless it has seen some out of the ordinary damage/wear. Replacing 26 year old seals is cheap insurance even if they are not leaking. Saw looks good and glad you posted a pic of it.
Husvarna 2100 - what now?
- Thread starter huskyhank
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TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Henry, that saw is in awesome condition!!! DO NOT SELL IT!!! Fix, shine, put on a shelf and go buy a new 372XP to use every day. You can always get it out to run sometime just for the hell of it.
Mike
Mike
No putting it on a shelf -- it cuts as good as it looks.
Or it will again after I get it sorted out.
It looks better in the pictures than in person. Not that it looks bad but I have used it a good bit. I just never crank it on concrete or throw it down in rocks. Where I live is mostly soft farm land so if you're not a complete idiot you don't have to tear up your saw.
The other day I was looking at a used saw and the guy tossed it on the concrete and cranked it up, then stopped it and rolled it over to check out the chain cover. And this on broom finished concrete. Of course then I realized how the saw got so rough looking. I bet it didn't have half the paint on it.
Or it will again after I get it sorted out.
It looks better in the pictures than in person. Not that it looks bad but I have used it a good bit. I just never crank it on concrete or throw it down in rocks. Where I live is mostly soft farm land so if you're not a complete idiot you don't have to tear up your saw.
The other day I was looking at a used saw and the guy tossed it on the concrete and cranked it up, then stopped it and rolled it over to check out the chain cover. And this on broom finished concrete. Of course then I realized how the saw got so rough looking. I bet it didn't have half the paint on it.
WOW!
You should be slap for even thinking about getting rid of such a gem.
I've seen a few 2100's and none as nice as that.
AUSSIE1
Al.
Beautiful saw Hank.
A credit to you.
A credit to you.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
Just get it and come to our gtg in north Ar Dec and I would bet we could send you home smiling from ear to ear. Or package it up and send it to me for one of my 372's lol. Very nice looking saw u have there.<a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&lpver=3&ref=11" target="_blank"><img src="http://content.sweetim.com/sim/cpie/emoticons/000203FC.gif" border="0" title="Click to get more." ></a>
constantine
ArboristSite Operative
Beautiful saw. Keep it!!!
:love1:
:love1:
drill.daddy
ArboristSite Operative
I hate to be the one to tell you this , You got a big scratch on the bottom of it , all the way thru the paint down to the metal . Dunno what to tell you to do . I dont think its repairable anymore, Box it up and send it to me , I will give it a final resting place.:smoking:
husq2100
Addicted to ArboristSite
i just noticed it has the "jungle" type muffler. I wonder if it is thin ring as well....probably is, i cant look anymore, it hurts 
Serg
Serg
from what I see, an upside down "stop" sticker and slightly twisted handle grip you should unload that old heap real quick before something else happens to it
Looks like parts I need to bring it back fully are in the list below.
The carb kit, fuel and vent parts for sure.
I think I'll do this and see if that gets it running right then do seals.
The oil lines since they are rubber and old?
Anything else while I'm at it?
501 54 67-01 carb kit for Tillostson HS 136C
crank seals (I don't find a part number or see them in the diagram)
fuel
501 82 23-02 filter
501 55 10-01 grommet ?
501 42 65-02 line
vent
501 55 11-01 top
501 69 50-01 middle
501 54 12-01 bottom
oil lines
501 69 63-01 big line
501 82 58-02 fitting ?
501 61 32-01 small line
optional
501 27 82-01 gas cap gasket
501 27 82-01 outside dog
501 61 44-01 filter screen
The carb kit, fuel and vent parts for sure.
I think I'll do this and see if that gets it running right then do seals.
The oil lines since they are rubber and old?
Anything else while I'm at it?
501 54 67-01 carb kit for Tillostson HS 136C
crank seals (I don't find a part number or see them in the diagram)
fuel
501 82 23-02 filter
501 55 10-01 grommet ?
501 42 65-02 line
vent
501 55 11-01 top
501 69 50-01 middle
501 54 12-01 bottom
oil lines
501 69 63-01 big line
501 82 58-02 fitting ?
501 61 32-01 small line
optional
501 27 82-01 gas cap gasket
501 27 82-01 outside dog
501 61 44-01 filter screen
Update:
I ended up sending the saw to Matt at D&D Enterprises in Salem Indiana, thanks to a suggestion from a forum member. D&D has been in business a good long while and has parts and knowledge to work on old saws (and new).
They laid magic hands on my 2100 and its like new again (maybe better). I've run 3 or 4 tanks through it bucking and milled a couple of oak logs. Got a new 32" bar for it too. What a great saw and what a great saw shop.
I ended up sending the saw to Matt at D&D Enterprises in Salem Indiana, thanks to a suggestion from a forum member. D&D has been in business a good long while and has parts and knowledge to work on old saws (and new).
They laid magic hands on my 2100 and its like new again (maybe better). I've run 3 or 4 tanks through it bucking and milled a couple of oak logs. Got a new 32" bar for it too. What a great saw and what a great saw shop.
Gregford
ArboristSite Operative
+1. Glad to see you've fixed the 2100. Aftermarket fuel hoses and other parts can be found very cheaply. A guy over my way sells me stuff for my 288 which fits the 2101 I have. A fuel hose is the equivalent of US$4, same for a fuel filter.
If I were you, I'd block the carb governor off with a welch plug from a carb kit. The 1100, 2100 and 2101 have a spring and ball bearing governor which wears out and then you can never get the saw to run right. Other people on this site told me to do it to my 2101, and it really woke the old girl up. I was finally able to tune the carb properly, compression came up from 150psi to 165psi and the saw is just so much nicer to use, with no adverse effects.
To get at the governor, you remove the choke plate then carefully remove the choke spindle, watching for the detent spring and ball which can pop out unexpectedly. On the right-hand side of the carb, beside the choke spindle hole, you'll see a brass plug screwed into the side of the carb, normally with a dot of paint around the threads. This is the governor. Unscrew it, pop in the welch plug then screw the governor back in. Replace the choke spindle and choke plate. You will be able to adjust the carb like a normal saw i.e. screw jet needles in till the stop, then back off 1 turn. Then fine-tune the carb once the saw is warmed up. You'll be amazed at the difference.
Good luck. You've got a great saw there.
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I'm so glad that a great looking saw like that is back to it's old self. I brought my 2100 from D and D and it quite an impressive saw.
What I like best about D and D is if you need parts for something they always seem to have it in stock, used or new.
husq2100
Addicted to ArboristSite
well done, great to hear it is running well again.
do you have contact details for D&D?
Here it is sitting on some oak logs I milled with the 2100. I had to move them before I got done so they are in halves for now. To be quartered soon.
<img src="http://arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118738&d=1261349394"/>
<img src="http://arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118738&d=1261349394"/>
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JT78
ArboristSite Guru
Wow that saw looks good! Glad to hear she is running good again. I only have two saws left on my collectables list and one is a 288 the other is a 2100. I just hope I can find one half as good looking as that saw you have.
