EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I whipped this degree wheel up this morning and got the chuck at harbor freight. seemed to work fairly well. Also here is the spring that does not work. If anyone can elaborate on those port numbers that would be great.
Huztl MS 440 Initial Impressions, and Build
- Thread starter EB Saw
- Start date
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Huztl 50mm cylinder
-distance from base to squish band intake side = 72.22mm
-distance from base to squish band exhaust side = 72.40mm
That's about 0.007 inch.
OEM 50mm cylinder
71.60mm intake side base to squish band
71.95mm exhaust side base to squish base
That's about 0.014 inch.
drf255
BAD CAD
Your intake opening makes no sense, but if the duration is correct, then u are at 75.
I thought your loose squish was sans base gasket. Roof flashing is only .010 thick and may bring you to 22. You'll need sealant on both sides.
I thought your loose squish was sans base gasket. Roof flashing is only .010 thick and may bring you to 22. You'll need sealant on both sides.
drf255
BAD CAD
The numbers you are posting look great.
I bet if you go with a custom .010 base gasket, you'll be at 102/118/76. Near perfect numbers.
The ports don't move symmetrically because piston speed varies during stroke. There's nearly no movement at tdc or bdc, but more in the center of the stroke.
Sounds like you've got a runner there.
I'd still go Meteor. I get your point, and the point of the thread. But no reason not to have a little insurance. Plus, the supplied piston likely won't be consistent anyway. So if yours lasts, someone else's may not.
Obviously your call. Thanks for doing this thread. It's interesting.
I bet if you go with a custom .010 base gasket, you'll be at 102/118/76. Near perfect numbers.
The ports don't move symmetrically because piston speed varies during stroke. There's nearly no movement at tdc or bdc, but more in the center of the stroke.
Sounds like you've got a runner there.
I'd still go Meteor. I get your point, and the point of the thread. But no reason not to have a little insurance. Plus, the supplied piston likely won't be consistent anyway. So if yours lasts, someone else's may not.
Obviously your call. Thanks for doing this thread. It's interesting.
Photos of my 440 built with brake spring installed.
Attachments
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you for the response i thought by cutting the base i trashed the cylinder. Yes i must have read the degree wheel wrong when finding the intake i will recheck tonight.
As for the spring i just sent an email so hopefully i will get Huztl to answer back, if not i will try and find a used one or just get oem, can't be that expensive.
Glad to hear at least someone have faith in the port timing. Once again i am just using this as a base and in a few weeks another cylinder should arrive and the performance modifications will be in full swing and i will be able to really test the saw.
Thanks again n for the insight, i have never dealt or even though about port timing until about last night
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EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I could just shave .010 off top of piston, or off the base of the cylinder. What you think.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
My bad i don't know what i was thinking, taking it off the piston would be working back words.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
I am going to build it up on Monday when the new piston retainers get in and test compression. If low then i might take of .010 off the base of the cylinder to get me to the port numbers. If not i will just leave it.
I made a Excel spreadsheet that converts piston distance from squish band to degrees of crank rotation. It works for any saw. Enter stroke, connecting rod length, squish. It has a column that shows the distance from the squish band and another column that shows the rotation degrees. It is as accurate as you can measure the port differences from the squish. It has other information that is interesting like displacement, rate of displacement and other useless stuff. I have one setup for a 660 and the 440. I do need an actual connecting rod length for a 440.
I don't know how to post an Excel file but I if some tells me how I will post it.
Nah, measure once and cut 4 or 5 times till you need to get another...works every time...
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
yes that would be interesting to play with, i don't know the connecting rod length, hopefully someone does.
drf255
BAD CAD
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks.
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
Yep, that's not what mine looks like, Eb's looks like it would work, but the anchor hook (large hook) on his is rotated to make it unusable. My large hook is completely different - my large hook is off to one side of the spring coils.
Sorry I don't have a picture - I'll try to explain. If you held your spring by the small hook, and let it dangle large hook down, and you dropped a pen through the spring coils from the small hook end, the large hook would catch the pen, because the large hook is in the same plane as the center axis of the spring coils. If I held my spring the same way (large hook down) and dropped a pen through the coils, the would fall to the floor, because my hook is off to one side. My hook is in the same plane as the outer edge of the spring coils.
It appears that there are several spring versions in these kits.
Sorry I don't have a picture - I'll try to explain. If you held your spring by the small hook, and let it dangle large hook down, and you dropped a pen through the spring coils from the small hook end, the large hook would catch the pen, because the large hook is in the same plane as the center axis of the spring coils. If I held my spring the same way (large hook down) and dropped a pen through the coils, the would fall to the floor, because my hook is off to one side. My hook is in the same plane as the outer edge of the spring coils.
It appears that there are several spring versions in these kits.
dswensen
ArboristSite Guru
I might need a new carb too. The choke plate return spring on mine is too weak to reliably open the choke once the master control lever is moved off "full choke".
Try holding the choke closed and loosen the butterfly screw then retighten. Might be binding
5 out of 8 of mine for the 660 have needed the butteryfly reset. Really simple task. I also open up the carb diaphragm cover and make sure that the metering valve moves freely, I've had a couple that felt stuck till I pressed the metering lever.
EB Saw
ArboristSite Operative
Here my reviews of quality and fitment. I will be rating them on school grading scale
a+ compares to Stihl OEM
a being like OEM
You get the point, the grades include fit and finish as well as sturdiness in the hand. Obviously, i have not even ran the saw yet nor have i put any of these parts tot he test but depending on how they feel you can get a pretty good idea, again just initial impressions.
The Recoil Starter assembly,
B+
I find it feels sturdy and really doesn't feel that different from an OEM assembly, the rope action feels smooth and precise and there isn't a lot of play.
a+ compares to Stihl OEM
a being like OEM
You get the point, the grades include fit and finish as well as sturdiness in the hand. Obviously, i have not even ran the saw yet nor have i put any of these parts tot he test but depending on how they feel you can get a pretty good idea, again just initial impressions.
The Recoil Starter assembly,
B+
I find it feels sturdy and really doesn't feel that different from an OEM assembly, the rope action feels smooth and precise and there isn't a lot of play.
