Hyway 660 cylinder kit review

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Jacob J. said:
This place is a lot better off when we all joke around and keep it light-hearted. The people that tend to do the most joking around are also some of the heaviest hitters in the saw world and OPE industry. The people that get all uptight about it are the ones with the least experience and who take themselves too seriously (in my experience.)
Click to expand...

right on.

i guess AS is like the NFL. NO FUN LEAGUE.
 
What is the expected life expectancy of an OEM cylinder? How long does it take to cut that much wood?

Say the life expectancy is 1000 hours, is it reasonable to assume someone could cut a cord in an hour? If you cut 50 cords a year, that's 20 years. I'd venture to say that if you get half that time you've probably gotten your money's worth.

For the all the people that are not running a saw professionally, how many have worn out a cylinder? For that matter, how many pros have worn a cylinder out? Is the cylinder likely to go before the crank, all things being equal?
 
thomas1 said:
What is the expected life expectancy of an OEM cylinder? How long does it take to cut that much wood?

Say the life expectancy is 1000 hours, is it reasonable to assume someone could cut a cord in an hour? If you cut 50 cords a year, that's 20 years. I'd venture to say that if you get half that time you've probably gotten your money's worth.

For the all the people that are not running a saw professionally, how many have worn out a cylinder? For that matter, how many pros have worn a cylinder out? Is the cylinder likely to go before the crank, all things being equal?
Click to expand...

In my experience, I have never seen a cylinder wear out. It's always some other issue that causes the failure, air leaks, fuel lines, excessive carbon buildup, bad gas being the most common. I have seen saws that were completely worn out, that still had good compression and you could stil see the machine marks on the piston. My opinion is, if a kit makes it through the first 50 hours, it is probably going to go on and last until something else causes it to fail. I'm sure opinions will vary.
 
some thoughts and questions on the port edges (again).

The 4 black arrows:
looks to be a nick in the tooling.
That's leaving a nasty spot in the transition from one angle to next
(still seeing no actual radiusing being done here)
Those will tend to concentrate pressure/stress thus loading/wear
and likely contribute to an earlier failure point in the plating.

and it seems that the nature of coatings,
(a physics thing, I gather/am told..)
causes them to tend to be thinner on corners,
so this adds to the problem with the the corners.

Blue arrow:
A little spiked spot, stemming from tool manipulation.
Same potential plating troubles as mentioned above.

Green arrow:
?..could be a smudge line below it from someones questioning fingers
about that spot
or a scuff from test fitting of parts.
 
LegDeLimber said:
some thoughts and questions on the port edges (again).

The 4 black arrows:
looks to be a nick in the tooling.
That's leaving a nasty spot in the transition from one angle to next
(still seeing no actual radiusing being done here)
Those will tend to concentrate pressure/stress thus loading/wear
and likely contribute to an earlier failure point in the plating.

and it seems that the nature of coatings,
(a physics thing, I gather/am told..)
causes them to tend to be thinner on corners,
so this adds to the problem with the the corners.

Blue arrow:
A little spiked spot, stemming from tool manipulation.
Same potential plating troubles as mentioned above.

Green arrow:
?..could be a smudge line below it from someones questioning fingers
about that spot
or a scuff from test fitting of parts.
Click to expand...

Everywhere you are pointing to is a bevel. The bevel isn't exactly the same width so it doesn't run in a straight line. What's important is that it is below the bore before it is plated. There isn't a radius anywhere.
 
thomas1 said:
What is the expected life expectancy of an OEM cylinder? How long does it take to cut that much wood?

Say the life expectancy is 1000 hours, is it reasonable to assume someone could cut a cord in an hour? If you cut 50 cords a year, that's 20 years. I'd venture to say that if you get half that time you've probably gotten your money's worth.

For the all the people that are not running a saw professionally, how many have worn out a cylinder? For that matter, how many pros have worn a cylinder out? Is the cylinder likely to go before the crank, all things being equal?
Click to expand...

Was wondering about that ? I don't think I could wear one out,I only cut firewood for heat. I haven't been into all this saw stuff that long yet. But I have been into a lot of saws the last 2 years.Seems its always something other than a wore out jug that kills the saw. Neglect seems to be the #1 saw killer. Air leaks #2 . Just what I have seen in the short time I have been into them ?
I know I am not good enough a judge to see less than a huge difference in AM and OEM jug on a saw. Many of you can, even more so with timed cuts. But the average guy like me , I would never know. Now if its just plain junk that falls apart,I may know that one. LOL
 
I've seen some old Pioneers with chrome plated bores wear through the plating. But this is chrome not nikasil and these saws are 40 years old. And they still run. I don't think I've ever seen a worn out jug. Needed new rings, yes. If these only last half as long as OEM, and I don't see why they would, I can't imagine a firewood guy ever wearing one out. The rest of the saw would be pretty ratty if he did.
 
Jacob J. said:
We like you anyway Randy. (well, not really, but it sounded nice.)
Click to expand...

No need to be nice to me. I spent the biggest part of my life running a crew of construction workers.......I can play the role of anything from a guidance counselor to a loan shark.
 
Mastermind said:
No need to be nice to me. I spent the biggest part of my life running a crew of construction workers.......I can play the role of anything from a guidance counselor to a loan shark.
Click to expand...


Off topic.

Foul and/or vile.

What's the most time you've seen put on a saw before it needed a top end JJ?
 
Mastermind said:
No need to be nice to me. I spent the biggest part of my life running a crew of construction workers.......I can play the role of anything from a guidance counselor to a loan shark.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it's similar to running crews of firefighters. I never had any kids of my own because I spent 16 years raising other people's children...
 
DSS said:
Off topic.

Foul and/or vile.

What's the most time you've seen put on a saw before it needed a top end JJ?
Click to expand...

Well I usually replaced piston and ring (Huskies) or piston and rings (others) at regular intervals.
The Huskies would get a new slug at around 5-600 hours. Stihls, around 9-1100 hours. I'd buy a new
saw every 18-24 months and keep the previous one as a back-up. Any others would get reconditioned
and then sold or traded off.

I've seen cylinders with the plating worn through, usually landing saws that the crews weren't maintaining
the air filters on. One saw wouldn't turn over because the combustion chamber was packed tightly full of
burnt saw chips.
 
Jacob J. said:
Well I usually replaced piston and ring (Huskies) or piston and rings (others) at regular intervals.
The Huskies would get a new slug at around 5-600 hours. Stihls, around 9-1100 hours. I'd buy a new
saw every 18-24 months and keep the previous one as a back-up. Any others would get reconditioned
and then sold or traded off.

I've seen cylinders with the plating worn through, usually landing saws that the crews weren't maintaining
the air filters on. One saw wouldn't turn over because the combustion chamber was packed tightly full of
burnt saw chips.
Click to expand...

Do you always use OEM pistons and rings ? Any of the AM pistons as good,or very close ? Never hear that much about the pistons. I hear of a couple most used, half to a third of the cost of OEM.
 
tbone75 said:
Do you always use OEM pistons and rings ? Any of the AM pistons as good,or very close ? Never hear that much about the pistons. I hear of a couple most used, half to a third of the cost of OEM.
Click to expand...

Meteor pistons are great and I've cut timber with them. I've cut timber with some NWP pistons as well, but on the NWPs I use Caber or OEM rings.

I've never cut timber on a VEC or Golf piston, or the unknown "white box" brands.
 
Jacob J. said:
Meteor pistons are great and I've cut timber with them. I've cut timber with some NWP pistons as well, but on the NWPs I use Caber or OEM rings.

I've never cut timber on a VEC or Golf piston, or the unknown "white box" brands.
Click to expand...

Thank you !!

This 440 kit I am getting,I will use the caber rings .Putting AM bearings and seals in too. Going to pass it around to see how it holds up. I know a couple saw killers ! LOL Not sure I can get enough time on it to find out by myself ?
 
Jacob J. said:
Well I usually replaced piston and ring (Huskies) or piston and rings (others) at regular intervals.
The Huskies would get a new slug at around 5-600 hours. Stihls, around 9-1100 hours. I'd buy a new
saw every 18-24 months and keep the previous one as a back-up. Any others would get reconditioned
and then sold or traded off.

I've seen cylinders with the plating worn through, usually landing saws that the crews weren't maintaining
the air filters on. One saw wouldn't turn over because the combustion chamber was packed tightly full of
burnt saw chips.
Click to expand...

How many months would it take to get to those hours?
 

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