I ported the Echo 2511T & muffler mod info

[Yotaismygame]

Finally decided to tackle the little echo saw. I really didn’t think much of the saw stock. Slow chain speed, wrong bar and chain setup when stock. Chattering was an issue. It worked fine for cutting small limbs when up in a tree but that’s about it.

Here’s the muffler part

There really isn’t much info about the muffler or porting these saws. The internet had me thinking there was a cat in this muffler. I had seen guys just bypass by drilling a hole right through the muffler. I wanted to cut the muffler in half, gut it and go from there. First I tried to grind the lip off so I could separate the three pieces but that didn’t work. So I cut the front half right off. And surprise surprise there was just a baffle that wouldn’t come out. I opted to just drill several holes in the baffle.

I then took off the stock deflector, opened it up and made a new one. Welding it back together was tough with my mig. I had to turn it all the way down and still couldn’t lay a bead with out blowing metal away. But it works...

Next time I’ll just enlarge the stock opening and cut through the baffle.

Then on to the porting ...

 

[Yotaismygame]

I started with ditching the base gasket and measuring squish. It was .023”. Not bad! Stock gasket thickness was .015”. From there I took .010 off the piston to make it a pop up. Then took off .015” off the base for a new squish of .018”. Next time I’ll trying cutting the squish band instead. There’s not a whole lot more that can be cut off the base without running into issues with being able to mount the engine assembly back into the saw. Also another issue I ran into was the coil fitment. The coil bolts to the cylinder and the cylinder was dropped .030” so I had to file on the mounting holes a little bit.



Getting into the exhaust was a little difficult, and the same with the transfers.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Final conclusion? Very happy with the way the saw runs now! I was able to make a 9 second improvement when doing a stock to ported comparison. Compression gained a little, chain speed is much faster, and it’ll hold rpm no problem. One thing that is still untested for this saw is the timing advance. I did advance the timing but other guys in the web have said it did nothing for them. So at some point I will put it back to stock and see what happens.

Now when it comes to bar and chain setups I know a lot of guys like to switch to a 1/4 setup and the saw cuts well with that setup, but the whole thing cost me around $120 and actually cut a second slower then the stock setup. The difference was I could lean on the saw hard and have no issues. Personally I would take that money and put it towards having it ported. The stock setup works well once the saw is ported. I also tested it ported with a full chisel non safety chain which was a little too aggressive but I think once filed properly for this saw it would cut pretty well.


All stock



Ported all stock setup



Ported again



Ported 1/4 setup



Ported 1/4 setup

 

[Yotaismygame]

More ported run time

 

[Yotaismygame]

More words...

I changed this saw from a pruning saw to a complete arborist package. Could easily top with it now.
Also the bar and chain setup I ordered the sprocket and bar from SawAgain. The bar is a multi mount and works right out of the box. I picked up the chain from Stihl which is 68dl. The bar is 12” compared to the stock 14”. I was thinking it was 12” when I ordered the new bar. I wish I would have went with the 14”. 12” is a little short.

 

[BGE541]

Before and after looks decent porting wise but damn I’d say you owe that guy an OEM muffler done right.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Before and after looks decent porting wise but damn I’d say you owe that guy an OEM muffler done right.

Decent? 9 second improvement only gets decent? The saw is my own. The muffler may be ugly but it’s perfectly fine. Don’t get so caught up on how pretty a saw looks. It cuts wood......

 

[BGE541]

Decent? 9 second improvement only gets decent? The saw is my own. The muffler may be ugly but it’s perfectly fine. Don’t get so caught up on how pretty a saw looks. It cuts wood......

Like my post said, porting wise, ie your transfers look a little sharp but intake looks nice, I don’t know if that was a work in progress of final version but either way clearly did the job. If it’s your saw then great, disregard my muffler comment (if you want it TIGd lemme know) and I would suggest a timing advance as Echo coils have some aggressive timing built in some up to 35*...

You gotten to use this up in the tree much?

 

[Yotaismygame]

One thing that is still untested for this saw is the timing advance. I did advance the timing but other guys on the web have said it did nothing for them. So at some point I will put it back to stock and see what happens.

Could have smoothed out the welds but it’s pointless.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Btw guys this was more of an experiment. Specifically with the muffler. I wanted to see exactly what was going on with it and provide information with pictures for future 2511 modders. On my YouTube channel I have a video describing everything said in this thread which I talk about throwing this muffler away if needed or buying a new cylinder if this one turned out terrible. Really didn’t matter to me. All was about research and providing others with information.

 

[CR888]

What's your theory on doing the transfers the way you do, would it not be better to have the whole roof flat and worked right back to the tunnels rather than just raising the edges?

 

[CatMan Fetters]

Btw guys this was more of an experiment. Specifically with the muffler. I wanted to see exactly what was going on with it and provide information with pictures for future 2511 modders. On my YouTube channel I have a video describing everything said in this thread which I talk about throwing this muffler away if needed or buying a new cylinder if this one turned out terrible. Really didn’t matter to me. All was about research and providing others with information.

Good Job!!

 

[Yotaismygame]

What's your theory on doing the transfers the way you do, would it not be better to have the whole roof flat and worked right back to the tunnels rather than just raising the edges?

Bore size. That’s not how I do them, that’s just how I did it this time. Bore size is only 35mm not much space to do any real work. Had the same issue with the exhaust. I probably could have cleared them out more but they still open when I wanted them too. Also the transfers are so small I couldnt even fit a burr in there at the angle I would have needed.

Difficult saw to port. Couldn’t even fit a burr through the intake when it was stock size.

 

[Ketchup]

@Yotaismygame would you mind sharing a photo of the body mods you did to fit everything back up?

I see you cut out the flange features that lead into the lowers. Any reason not to take the whole wall away?

FWIW, My experience with a timing advance on this saw model was poorer starting behavior (at .030” off the key). Maybe a smaller advance would be better.

Really glad this thread exists, thanks for taking the time!

 

[Yotaismygame]

Body mods? The only issue I had was the coil spacing to the fly wheel. Had to file the slotted holes a little on the coil. Everything else was real tight.

I talk about timing advance here. Still need to test the final result. Originally I took .044 off the key which seemed good but a bit much then moved to .027. Saw a clear loss in power. Now it’s at .036 but have not tested that yet. I never noticed any weird starting issues at any level of advancing.

 

[SierraMtns]

Body mods? The only issue I had was the coil spacing to the fly wheel. Had to file the slotted holes a little on the coil. Everything else was real tight.

I talk about timing advance here. Still need to test the final result. Originally I took .044 off the key which seemed good but a bit much then moved to .027. Saw a clear loss in power. Now it’s at .036 but have not tested that yet. I never noticed any weird starting issues at any level of advancing.

Hey friend any luck on finding out how the spikes mount?

 

[Yotaismygame]

Yes, here is the thread about that. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/echo-2511t-falling-spike-install-problems.339420/

In short there is self tapping hardware that you're supposed to buy with the spike. I ended up buying button head bolts and tapping it myself. Also was brought to my attention that the ms170 spike is better and needs little modification to work on the 2511t

 

[Yotaismygame]

@Yotaismygame

I see you cut out the flange features that lead into the lowers. Any reason not to take the whole wall away?

My thinking with the lower transfer wall was case compression. Taking that much material out worried me. Should try it and report back

 

[Ketchup]

My thinking with the lower transfer wall was case compression. Taking that much material out worried me. Should try it and report back

I have the same thought. I have an experimental jug I could try it on, but it will require some epoxy.

The transfer shape of these saws confuse me. Obviously the wash pattern is asymmetrical, but the flange walls at the lowers seem extremely low, and the shapes cut into them don’t appear to have much affect.

 

[Yotaismygame]

All I can think of is they wanted to keep the case really tight. I did't notice any i'll affects to case compression after porting.