I'm re-ringing 2 cycle saw. How much end gap in the ring, if you just have ONE ring??

[etbrown4]

I've heard all kinds of numbers from, just use the factory ring as is, up to .0xx".

What's the best practice? Not sure of the ring makup, but it sort of looks like chrome.

With all the chinese parts nowadays, we are often on our own!

Also I assume the ring end taper goes down and the flat top edge of the ring goes up. Right? for max compression.

Tips appreciated

 

[Roanoker494]

My "rule of thumb" is anything more than the thickness of a business card is too much. With new rings I like to see about the thickness of a razor blade, maybe two blades. The tapered edge goes up, the rings likely would not fit the other way around.

What saw are you working on?

EDIT:
BTW. I own no gauges for checking this kind of stuff and solely rely on what I have laying on the bench, like business cards and razor blades.

 

[etbrown4]

pin in ring groove?

There is a tiny pin located in the ring groove.
Logic suggests that this establishes the location for the ring gap.
Esp if you turn the tapered end of the ring facing up so that it rides under that pin.

If i'm right, this means that the ring is pretty much locked into a fined position, Right?

 

[Roanoker494]

There is a tiny pin located in the ring groove.
Logic suggests that this establishes the location for the ring gap.
Esp if you turn the tapered end of the ring facing up so that it rides under that pin.

If i'm right, this means that the ring is pretty much locked into a fined position, Right?

Sounds like you got it figured out now. If the rings were not located by the pin they could spin and the ring ends would catch in a port, as you may figure that is a very bad thing. The older saws without locating pins were usually reed valve engines, so no transfer ports to worry about, and they used a different style exhaust port to keep the rings from catching.