Install fuel tank vent in Husky50Special ??

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billyjoejr

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Help,
I've hit a brick wall in installing the fuel tank vent. :bang:
Following instructions in a downloaded manual(see below),
I removed the old vent. (It was was leaving a puddle of fuel if the saw was clutch side down.)
Figured it would be fairly straight forward to install new one. Looks like it should be a taper fit and used a drift to try to seat it.
No matter what I do, I can't seem to get it to seat tightly.
I've knocked the drift with a hammer and it feels solid,
but if I put my finger in the fuel tank, I can push the vent out with very little pressure. Surely the vent will fall out when the tank vibrates while running.
It took some effort to remove the old one.
I even took an exacto knife and tapered the shoulders on each of the two connections of the three size 'tubes?' that make up the breather body, thinking the shoulders where too square and hanging up on the shoulders molded in the tank body.
Now that I think of it, the only thing I haven't done is clamp on to the vent tube from inside the tank and really pull on it. I did pull lightly trying to line up the shoulders, but didn't really put effort to pulling for fear of ruining the new vent.

From the manual:
Disassembly
The fuel tank vent is located on the right side of the fuel
tank next to the right rear rubber element. With the fuel
tank empty and the fuel hose disconnected at the
carburetor, remove the two rear rubber elements as
described in section 9. Anti-Vibration System. Separate
the rear of the crankcase and the fuel tank enough to
expose the fuel tank vent.
Working through the fuel filler opening, grasp the fuel
tank vent tube with a pair of needle nose pliers. Push the
vent out the other side.

Assembly
Install the fuel tank vent using a drift the same diameter
as the vent tube. The remainder of assembly is the
reverse of disassembly
 
You may have to give it a bit of a whack. Wait untill someone much more experienced than I comes along. I would feel bad if you broke it.

I have only done one. On my 262xp I think I just turned the old one around and gave it a few solid taps with a medium sized ballpeen hammer. Had the saw flipped all over the place tonight putting in a new a/v bushing. No leaks:):givebeer:


hope that helps

Bill
 
Thanks Bill,
I have given it many good whacks with a small ballpeen hammer but it feels like I am literally hitting a brick wall and before I did break something I thought I would see if anyone knew a trick for seating the vent tube. :cheers:

Here's my idea's on how to continue
1. Go ahead and clamp on the tube on the inside of the gas tank with a hemostat and really pull hard. Maybe pulling will cause the plastic to stretch a little, making it slimmer and it will seat. But the tube is plastic and I am afraid of breaking or cracking it. It is only $3.00 bucks but an hour drive to the Husky shop though.

2. Put some lube(grease, fuel mix, or straight mix oil) on the tube and maybe it will slide right in.

Here is a pic from the IPL,
It doesn't show the second shoulder so I drew it in. The tube is three different size plastic tubes that are joined to together.

picture.php
 
Yep, broke it at the first shoulder.
Dealer only keeps one on hand, so now I have to wait for another to come in next week.
It is the correct part, identical to the old one I pulled out.
I tried reinstalling the old one but hit the same brick wall. It feels like it is seated solid when tapping it in, but just the slightest pressure on it from inside the tank and it will pop out.
When I first took the old one out, it took some effort.

Wish we had a Fish or Lakeside53 for Husky saws here on the forum.
Just need a hint on the proper procedure, followed the instructions in the manual and that doesn't work.
So if no one has a clue to the proper procedure, I'm thinking of applying a good coating of JB Weld and making the repair permanent. Heck the saw is from 1989 so the new vent should definitely out live the saw. LOL
 
Yep, broke it at the first shoulder.
Dealer only keeps one on hand, so now I have to wait for another to come in next week.
It is the correct part, identical to the old one I pulled out.
I tried reinstalling the old one but hit the same brick wall. It feels like it is seated solid when tapping it in, but just the slightest pressure on it from inside the tank and it will pop out.
When I first took the old one out, it took some effort.

Wish we had a Fish or Lakeside53 for Husky saws here on the forum.
Just need a hint on the proper procedure, followed the instructions in the manual and that doesn't work.
So if no one has a clue to the proper procedure, I'm thinking of applying a good coating of JB Weld and making the repair permanent. Heck the saw is from 1989 so the new vent should definitely out live the saw. LOL

No need to use JB. I'd opt for some good quality semi-hardening silicone. It would be alot easier to pry out if you ever needed to. Also green locktite stud an bearing mount might be appropriate here.
 
No need to use JB. I'd opt for some good quality semi-hardening silicone. It would be alot easier to pry out if you ever needed to. Also green locktite stud an bearing mount might be appropriate here.

Thanks for the idea.
I first thought about silicone but then thought it wouldn't be gas resistant.
I knew JB was gas resistant.
Going to take a trip to the hardware store and check the specs on silicone.
 
Bump for one last chance for a Husky tech to see this and respond.

I took a closer look at things today using the old vent.
The new vent was bottomed out.
So there were no hangups with the shoulders.
Either the vent is made with a plastic that will swell when exposed to gas or it does require a sealant to firmly hold it in place.
There is no sign of sealant on the old vent or directions to use it in the shop manual for the Husky 50.

Thanks
Billy
 

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