Insulation around pump motors?

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oneoldbanjo

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I have a Woodmaster furnace and it is open on the bottom of the rear access panel where the pumps are located. The back of the boiler is insulated in this area - but the pump area is not completely enclosed and air can get underneath the access panel. I suppose the area is about a foot deep and as wide as the furnace. I felt that this was done to allow air to get to the pump motors and provide some cooling for them.

This morning I was on Youtube for a bit and saw some videos for a Free Heat Machine and the plumbing and pump was completely covered with insulation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK5UtmObxyw

Does anyone have any experience with this? Can the pumps be covered and still remain cool enough to have a durable lifespan - or will they overheat and shorten the operational life? It would be nice to insulate that area and keep some of the heat from escaping - but not if I need to replace pumps prematurely!
 
I look at it this way on my Woodmaster: The firebox is insulated from the pump by fiberglass, so any air blowing in there is not getting to the water jacket. Also I know whether I insulate that little area around the pump or not, the stove still will have to be loaded twice a day. I would rather get another year or two out of my pump than potentially save 10 logs over the life of the pump. That pump is already at 170 degrees from the water running through it, so I let it stay as cool as possible

One thing you can do if you want is to spray foam the pex lines running to your two valves on the back of the boiler.
 
my central boiler dealer had me to put regular bat insulation eveywhere but on the motor itself.the only thing you can see is the motor housing sticking out.
 
Pex

Speaking of PEX, I bought a roll and this stuff seems REALLY hard. I know it's cold, so I cut off a piece and warmed it with hot water and it still seems very infexible. Am I going to be able to route this stuff?

The insulation I found is called Armaflex which is seamless and has 1/2" sides with 1 1/8" ID. Anyone had any experience installing this stuff over PEX? My wife thinks it'll ba a bear.

Thanks!
 
When the guy was installing my OWB he just grabbed the PEX and made it go where he wanted - he said that after a while the pipe will conform to the new shape and the stresses will go away. I guess there is nothing sharper than a 1 foot radius - he used fittings for tighter bends.
 
I believe all the work on my installation was done in temperatures that were 50 degrees or warmer. I just did a search on the internet and did not find a minimum temperature for installation. I know that PVC pipe gets brittle when cold and can crack easier than when warm.

I do know that the fellow that installed my furnace has been working all winter with the stuff......don't know if he uses anything to warm up cold pipe before bending it.
 
Pex is a bear to handle when its cold out but at 70 its nice.....You just got to be a man with it, you can hurt it but it takes alot.....Also it expands alot when you add 180 deg water to it so "strap" it will and let it have some room to expand (like 100 feet will end up being about 101 feet or so) (rough numbers).
 
Pex

So, if this stuff expands so much, what happens inside that insulated PEX, the kind with the foam and drain pipe surrounding it? I was just afraid of breaking the stuff. Did you use the clamping rings/pliers? The dealer told me of a method that doesn't require a $150 tool.

Thanks!
 
Well I dont use the spray foam type cuz it just sucks to move around even when its warm so I really dont know.... I use a Watts crimping tool, I want to know what this dealer told you? Is it with hoof clipers? Also what type of clamps? I use clinch clamps not the copper rings. (I hate them)
 
Pex

It sounds like they are threaded type compression fittings or maybe a hose barb with a screw type clamp. We're not talking much pressure. I'll see them when he delivers the furnace. It sounds like they can be dissasembled easily rather than cutting the hose apart.

Thanks!
 

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