Is it possible to repair a scored cylinder jug on a husky 55

[dumbarky]

Hey guys got a question. How much scoring is too much in cylinder. My 55 has some visible and by feel significant scoring on the exhaust side. I found this saw at yard sale and bought it hoping to rebuild or use for parts. While disassembling noticed scoring. have looked into new jugs but found to be very expensive. Local shop told me that it is impossible to repair but I just wondered if some scoring is acceptable on a rebuild or if it could be cleaned up with honing or very fine sandpaper. I have rebuild stihl saws before but they were almost perfect piston and jug. Just replaced gaskets rings and away we go. Thought about used heads but not sure about interchangeability. Any thoughts would be apprecitated. Anyway the bigger the chips the better I like it.

 

[logging22]

pics please.

 

[NuConcepts]

some scoring is fine clean it up with 320 sand paper, a little muratic acid and some time. scoring isn;t a big deal as long as its not above the ports in the compression zone in the upper part of cylinder towards the spark plug hole.

 

[Brmorgan]

If the marks are actually aluminum transfer from a burnt-up piston, it can be fixed. As stated, find some hydrochloric acid (commonly sold as "muriatic acid" at any pool / hot tub supply store) and swab it on the scored areas with a Q-tip etc. If there is aluminum there, you should see some bubbling and frothing, and if left long enough, a slight greenish coloring, as the acid dissolves the aluminum. Once the majority is gone, some fine ~400gr wet/dry sandpaper should take care of the rest.

If the score marks are actually scratches in the cylinder coating, there's nothing you can do to help it. Start shopping.

 

[sefh3]

:camera: Pics would be nice.

 

[Streblerm]

I'd clean it up as best you can using the methods described here. Muriatic acid for the aluminum transfer and some sanding for the scratches.

I have "rebuilt" some saws by putting a new piston in a cylinder with some scoring and still had good compression and a good running saw. It all depends on how bad it is.

Somebody on this forum told me that a scratch on the cylinder wall of an otherwise good condition saw will eventually fill in with carbon.

Post up some pics if you want a more educated opinion of the condition of your cylinder.

 

[thomas72]

Any aluminum transfer you leave in the cylinder will cause the old or new piston to gall again. Bad idea to have friction between like metals.

 

[dumbarky]

Thanks guys, believe I will try the clean up with acid and buff up with fine sandpaper option. Install a new piston and ring see what kinda compression I get. I don't like to halfway do things but pick up the saw for next to nothing and thought it was good enough to play with for an extra saw. Saws are like good cold beer one is great but two is better and while your at it,,,, next thing you know you have them everywhere.

 

[TDunk]

With out pics. it's hard to say. I've cleaned up more than a few cylinders that were scored and have had no issues. Some acid and a hone job will take care of alot. With sand paper you don't have to worry, but if you hone it (and your not careful) you can go through the plating then your SOL.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Thanks guys, believe I will try the clean up with acid and buff up with fine sandpaper option. Install a new piston and ring see what kinda compression I get. I don't like to halfway do things but pick up the saw for next to nothing and thought it was good enough to play with for an extra saw. Saws are like good cold beer one is great but two is better and while your at it,,,, next thing you know you have them everywhere.

Uh, oh. There's some trouble brewing there. I say give in to it. Nurse wratchet will be along with your meds in a jiffy.

What you say is correct. If you picked it up for a song, it is a totally patriotic thing to do to try save the jug... you have a good shot at it. With a good quality aftemarket piston and a gasket, you'll have a nice saw for chump change. If the jug is toasted, I've seen decent used ones on Ebay.

Once you get it apart, let us know whether it is the open or closed port model. Oddly enough, that seems to matter with the 55.

 

[dumbarky]

Ok I am a little behind you guys, but I already have it apart. What is the difference between open and closed port configuration.
Bearings in the crank and wrist and rod are all good and tight.

 

[dumbarky]

Ok got this 55 all back together over the weekend. Everything checks out fine. Seems like great compression but will have to take over to my buddy's auto shop this week to get a gauge on it. Ran her about 1 hour straight except times jacking with the carb. Feels and sounds real good. I am guessing the small scratches are not affecting the jug and piston as bad as I thought they might. Rebuild the carb today and now she's ready to put on the work truck.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Sorry I wasn't around to answer your question.... work regularly gets in the way of my chainsaw enjoyment... :chatter:

Good job, Sir! If the goal was to get this saw so cheap that you scamper into the woods with it cackling madly, you succeeded! That is almost always a high priority for me.

For a serious CAD sufferer, there's nothing better than a good running saw except a good running saw that fell out of the sky.

Keep your eyes peeled for more smokin' deals, you may have the Midas touch.

 

[chuckwood]

cylinder coating

If the score marks are actually scratches in the cylinder coating, there's nothing you can do to help it. Start shopping.

I have a number of saws that were given to me, including a husky 350, that are seized up. I took them apart just in order to educate myself about how these things are built and what happens to them when somebody burns one up, so I've got a bunch of basket jobs laying around. Most, maybe all of the jugs are supposed to have a chrome or some other special alloy coating on them. I've examined them carefully, trying to "see" the coating, but all I see is just gray metal. When I think of chrome, I think of the mirror like finish seen on auto bumpers, not just nondescript gray metal. Am I missing something or are these coatings not visible. It seems that if you wear the coating off, there should be an obvious color or texture change so that you can determine if the jug is fixable or not. I've also heard that there are plating shops that can replate a cylinder if you have a rare collectible saw you wish to restore.

 

[dumbarky]

The chrome your looking for is not really chrome. It is a Nickel type material called Nikisil or something like that. Its is a very thin coating. The only way to visually see if your are thru this coating is a chemical test or if you know the thickness then you can measure the depth of the damage. The chemical test involves a dye type chemical which you apply that reacts with the alum. material. But typically all the material inside the cylinder is a grayish material. For the most part I have found if you clean up the cylinder with fine (400-600) sandpaper, and have no rough areas of piston transfer left over you should be able to reuse it. I've been told small scratches are tolerated. Be sure to use a good quality new piston and ring. I would also replace the wrist pin bearing too. I have done two of these saws now and except for carb problems have had good results.