It may just be a placebo effect but I swear my chains run smoother and bars seem

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KiwiBro

KiwiBro

Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Joined
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cooler when using Canola oil. OK, so someone is about to jump in and tell me my saw is about to self-destruct and 5 million Ethiopians will die tonight because I've poisoned my saw with Canola, but it's just an observation I've made. It's probably prone to subjective influence though.

Would one of the resident forensic chainsaw experts ever care to test the friction and bar/sprocket temps with different lubricants (for the saw that is) please?

Yeah, yeah, I can almost hear the "do a search you lazy sod" cries from all the way down here on the other side of the planet.
:hmm3grin2orange:
 
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :msp_angry:

:jester:

Okay. I can tell you that you will want to run dino bar oil through the saw at the end of the cutting season so the oiler doesn't gum up on you.
 
promac610 said:
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :msp_angry:

:jester:

Okay. I can tell you that you will want to run dino bar oil through the saw at the end of the cutting season so the oiler doesn't gum up on you.
Click to expand...

Noted, thanks. Although here in the Winterless North, down South :confused2: there is almost no off-season.
 
Yeah, Cornholio brand is the best, but it's hard to find. Container doesn't always seal right, so often you need to keep some TP around for the bunghole.
 
KiwiBro said:
cooler when using Canola oil. OK, so someone is about to jump in and tell me my saw is about to self-destruct and 5 million Ethiopians will die tonight because I've poisoned my saw with Canola, but it's just an observation I've made. It's probably prone to subjective influence though.

Would one of the resident forensic chainsaw experts ever care to test the friction and bar/sprocket temps with different lubricants (for the saw that is) please?

Yeah, yeah, I can almost hear the "do a search you lazy sod" cries from all the way down here on the other side of the planet.
:hmm3grin2orange:
Click to expand...
Canola is fine. Run a tank of regular chain oil as your last at the end of the season, then switch back to canola when you start up again.
 
It's half the price of bar oil here too. Whilst I'll use more of it if I choose to keep the same oiler settings, it's great to be using something that seems to do a better job, costs less, and is available at just about any corner store here when I forget to fill up my bottle after hours and run out of it on the job.

When you think of all the chainsaw users with all their chainsaws, that's a huge amount of oil being flung off into the environment. I wonder if, from production to end loss, Canola is the better bar oil for our planet.
 
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i've used canola straight and blended at different ratios with bar oil.

fact is that canola has very high lubricity. off the top of my head, when i researched it way back when, i want to say it had higher lubricity than bar oil.
but it has no tackifiers so it flings off the bar.

in warmer weather canola thins and flings at too great a rate.
 
Anyone ever wrecked their saw as a result of using Canola, noting the advice to make the last tank pre-storage regular bar oil to help flush the canola through?

Anyone ever been asked to repair the oil functions on a saw that had used canola oil and the problems could be directly attributed to such use, as opposed to just ordinary repairs to oiler systems that regular bar oil users might experience from time to time?
 
I've ran my 066 with 30wt chevron, atf4, steering fluid, and hydrlic fluid, ill kinda run anything in a pinch
.
 
Canola oil is actually really cool stuff. Most people don't know its an acronym for CANadian Oil Low Acid. It was initially used as a steam cylinder lube. It was developed with the interests of excellent lubrication in extreme conditions and it still sees use in this application. Then somebody decided to cook with it and realized its a great cooking oil too!

As noted the only problem I see is that retail B&C oil has "tackifiers" (not sure what they are) to keep it on the bar/chain and not flying off into oblivion where it does no good. It is also a fairly light oil. More viscous oils would work better (I think).
 
It sure would be good to know what to use as a tackifier.
Currently, I blend with a tacky regular bar oil if doing mainly WOT work. Sometimes I just use straight canola that I'm sure would give beavis (or was it butthead?) above the poos.
 
I have been using canola oil in all of my saws-Stock-Carving-Woods ported- (including my ported BB 066 on a 48" alaskan mill.

I have never had an oiler fail since I started using it.(4 years) I did, in a pinch, use some TSC B/C oil on my 14" titanium tipped carving bar once! Just about burned that 125.00 bar up in half a tank of fuel. I dumped it out and replaced the canola. The smoking and heat build up stopped immediately!

I am a firm believer in its ability to do the job of B/C lubricant , better ,greener, and at a lower cost, in most cases! Plain and simple it's good stuff!:rock:

The only draw back is that it will build up on the outside of your saws and bars. But if you clean your saw off with compressed air after every use, then it isn't really a problem.

My 2 cents!
 

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