Italian Cypress Trees-disease

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emjaen

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I have 14 Italian Cypress trees that create a privacy wall, so they are all touching. One or two have had branches which turn brown and die.

I believe this is the result of canker. I also believe once it starts it is hard to stop, but, HELP!

Is there anything I can do to retard the disease? I will go with chemical treatments, but am strongly preferring "green" methods. Perhaps that is wishful thinking.

Any ideas on what I should do to prevent the disease from spreading, etc?

Thank you!
 
Hello, emjaen:

Good initial description of problem -- but it might help to fill in a couple gaps.

Italian Cypress - Cupressus sempervirens - tall & narrow, right?

Canker disease? Not easy to describe, I know. But, are they pinpoint size areas with sap/pitch oozing out and streaming down the trunk/branches?

If yes to all, then sounds to me like Cypress Canker is possible (by whatever name Seridium cardinale, Coryneum Blight, etc.). Where I am (coastal Calif - betw. San Jose & S.F.), this is a tough one to retard. Emphasize proper cultural care -- no water stress, no buried root flares. Those are the two biggest factors I've seen seem to make a difference. Root crown excavations after the landscaper/gardener planted them too deep has been critical on more than one site.

By the way, if you also tell us your region, it may help anyone responding frame their reply - especially if they have direct experience in same locale.

Good luck.
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Ray,
Thank you for your comments. I am in southern California, Long Beach area.

Yes to all your questions:
Cypress are tall and narrow
Sap is oozing down trunk

Looked again yesterday and looks like it is only one tree...so far.

Sounds like I should have an arborist take a look and make their recommendations. Just need to find one in my area. But, I genuinely appreciate your time and comments.

Thanks again!
 
Italian Cypress with spider mites

Two tree companies have been out and diagnosed my Italian Cypress trees with spider mites, and not the canker I had originally thought.

I was not aware they could create the same sort of dmage as previously described.

Does anyone have recommendations on treating the spider mites? Or will I have to remove the infected tree?

Thank you for your kind assistance!

Marti
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TREATMENT

Pesticide
Amount to Use**
P.H.I.+

(commercial name)
(conc.)
(dilute)
(days)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following materials are listed in order of usefulness in an IPM program, taking into account efficacy and impact on natural enemies.



A.
FENBUTATIN-OXIDE*


(Vendex) 50WP
2 lb
0.5 lb
14


COMMENTS: This selective material appears to be most effective when applied earlier in the season rather than later. Use reduced rates to balance predator and pest mite populations if sufficient numbers of predators are present but pest mite populations are approaching the threshold level. Do not apply more than twice a season in not more than 400 gal water/acre.




B.
NARROW RANGE OILS#
4-6 gal
1-1.5 gal



COMMENTS: Oil used alone will only provide partial control for about a 2-week period. Always apply oils to well-watered trees and never when trees are stressed by hot (above 90°F), windy, dry (relative humidity lower than 20%) conditions or when such conditions are likely to occur within a few days after application. Additional applications may be needed at 2-week intervals, which may increase the potential for phytotoxicity. If fruit is present on the tree, treatment with oil may dull the fruit finish. Do not apply oil within 2 weeks of captan.



C.
FORMETANATE HYDROCHLORIDE


(Carzol SP)
0.125 lb
-
7


COMMENTS: Formetanate hydrochloride is not selective and can be very disruptive of natural enemies. Use only when resistance to other materials is a concern and oil is not an option.



D.
DICOFOL



(Kelthane) 50WSP
2-3 lb
0.5 lb
7


COMMENTS: Use allowed under a 24 (a) supplemental label. Resistance is a concern in some growing areas. Research in other crops indicates mite resistance declines when a material is not used for several years. Renewed use of the material will usually provide control for 2 sprays before resistance returns.


**
For dilute applications, rate is per 100 gal water to be applied in 300-500 gal water/acre, according to label; for concentrate applications, use 80-100 gal water/acre, or lower if the label allows.

*
Permit required from county agricultural commissioner for purchase or use.

+
Preharvest interval. Do not apply within this many days of harvest.

#
Acceptable for use on organically grown produce.

Hope this helps, Darin
 
In regards to Leyland & Italian Cypress trees in Texas. Do you find they prefer wetter soil or drier soil is best to avoid canker disease?
 

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