Jonsered 2055 with toooo much compression

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
DEG305

DEG305

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Messages
241
Location
wayne co. pa
My j-red 2055 that I put a new piston in over two years ago and have cut a lot of firewood with still has way too much compression to start easily, great for running but extremly hard for a 71 year old(me)to start. would I be able to install a decomp valve in it without damaging the jug? I love this saw when its running but starting it is a pain.
 
Cantdog
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
16,708
Location
Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
My j-red 2055 that I put a new piston in over two years ago and have cut a lot of firewood with still has way too much compression to start easily, great for running but extremly hard for a 71 year old(me)to start. would I be able to install a decomp valve in it without damaging the jug? I love this saw when its running but starting it is a pain.

You could try installing a thicker cyl base gasket....to increase squish and lower the compression a bit.....just a thought and a whole lot easier than installing a decomp where there never was one...
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

westcoast dweller
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
7,335
Location
Canuckistan
you gotta go through the top of the cylinder for that. i've done for a few guys who have problems starting thenolder saw without the decomp valve. if you have access to a cylinder with a decomp valve look atbhow it's done and do it the same way. don't just drill right through with a drill bit as large as the threads are gonna be. i forget what sized i used. once you tap the hole and got it all set just drill a hole big enough in the top cover so the button will just fit with a bit of clearance. just be sure to stay away from the plug hole when drilling. i'm not even sure if there's enough room on the smaller saws. all the ones i've did it on were big bores. it can be done just copy what they do at the factory. thats what i did and they all workes great.
 
BrocLuno

BrocLuno

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Messages
294
Location
NorCal
Maybe change your starting routine. Put it on the ground with one knee on the top cover - reach over and pull. It works for me on bigger motors as it's better leverage or muscle angle or something ...
 
old-cat

old-cat

Fir Man
Joined
Aug 18, 2012
Messages
3,752
Location
Near Mt. St. Helens
I wonder if you're having the same problem I had with my MS440. Kick-back. I added a wider gap between the flywheel and coil, kick-back, gone! I'm also thinking, maybe change your method of starting. Sit the bar on a log etc., hold the rear handle with your right hand, start it with your left. It works REALLY easy that way. I'm old too and I need to find easier ways to do things.
 
almondgt

almondgt

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 9, 2008
Messages
1,032
Location
british columbia canada
Remove the carb, disassemble completely, ultrasonic clean or soak the carb in a carb cleaner solution over a day or two. Make sure all the plastic parts on the carb, if any, are not submersed in any strong solution. Rebuild with a new carb kit and it will start with less pulls and will likely have less what you call compression..............
 
Scooterbum

Scooterbum

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
4,877
Location
Virginia
Pull the muffler and look and see how much carbon is in there.Might be why comp is way up. My 2055 has over 200 psi stock/
Thicker base gasket will also help.
If you install a decomp,which it does has enough room for make sure you use a drill press.
I destroyed a good cylinder with a hand drill once.
2055 cylinders are like hens teeth to find.
 

Latest posts

Top