Jred/Husky slippery bar studs, best fix sought

[WadePatton]

Hey y'all. I've been away for a while, but then came the time when none of my saws were running and I've gotta fix 'em up.

At present I've two Jreds unzipped and am putting a base adapter and jug and slug on the 2145--which was burnt up by the jackhole that stole it and was rebuilt by a local dealer (back when it was new-and we had a dealer). Since then I managed to get it hot and am investigating as I go.

I spun a stud in the 2150 a while back and see now how they slip/taper fit. I refitted it to the hole and all was fine until the air leak which is why I'm into that one now. During the tear down, the other stud got knocked back into the tank.

I've searched high and low but am not finding any "good" answers to my question of how do I get those pups to stay in their holes a little better?

Is there a locking goo for the plastic? Should I knurl the steel? Anything work to clear bar oil from the tank? Is there stud that works better in this application? These have been around a while and I'm sure it's been gone over before, feel free to redirect me to any discussions on the subject. I've just not having any luck searching.

Get these back in service and I'll move on to fixing my German saws. Thanks.

 

[WadePatton]

So I found these Husky studs that have splines and a square head. Any reason not to epoxy these into the Jonny and throw those taperfits to the spares box?

This is the last thing I want to do again, again. I'm not the sort who often overtorques things. Thanks.

 

[WadePatton]

So is this never an issue for anyone?

Am I posting the right place?

I'm going to buy the nuts with heads on 'em and make those fit for a better fix.

The factory assembly looks like they are epoxied into that backing plate, but that a square bolt head would catch in the plate-even if I have to resize it or reduce the diameter. I don't see any easy way to get a satisfactory result.

Contact?

 

[user 122190]

I would try some Gorilla Glue (or Red Loctite) after flushing the tanks with a solvent. Etch the studs to give the glue something to grab hold of.

 

[WadePatton]

I have these on order, no epoxy required, and more mechanical security. Hoping the fitment isn't a too big of a chore.

Thanks for participating.

 

[user 122190]

My only experience with this problem was in helping a neighbor fish the rear most stud back into the hole via the tank. I knew of a trick and it still took 4 or 5 attempts. A terrible design.

 

[Jeff Lary]

JB Weld

 

[WadePatton]

I learned a trick for the front hole, going to be trickier for the back one. As my small magnet was missing, I used a bamboo skewer to poke dental floss across the void. Floss was tied in the thread.

JB Weld

Most of the time when I refer to "epoxy" I'm referring to JB weld. Did you fix one with JB weld or just throwing in 2 cents of opinion?

 

[Jeff Lary]

Absolutely not, I was just giving an opinion and we know what they are worth. Actually I was thinking out loud if I had that issue what would I do sort of thing. Good luck with the repair though.

 

[ham]

View attachment 694702


I have these on order, no epoxy required, and more mechanical security. Hoping the fitment isn't a too big of a chore.

Thanks for participating.

Mind sharing where you bought these so folks in the future can find them????? Thanks

 

[user 122190]

My method was to wrap very thin wire between the threads, and then pull the bolt/stud out of the tank. The tolerance between the thread and hole was so small, that any wire being more proud then the thread depth was to thick. We had to search for smaller and smaller wire. In the end, the consensus was, to be avoided at all costs going forward.

And JB Weld would work equally as well. In fact, use whatever you happen to have on hand.

I learned a trick for the front hole, going to be trickier for the back one. As my small magnet was missing, I used a bamboo skewer to poke dental floss across the void. Floss was tied in the thread.



Most of the time when I refer to "epoxy" I'm referring to JB weld. Did you fix one with JB weld or just throwing in 2 cents of opinion?[/QUOTE

 

[spyder62]

I used green loctite on a couple of loose studs I had . Worked great. It’s for bearings and shafts. You gotta clean everything real good and I would let it set up a couple of days. I can get the number if you want it

 

[WadePatton]

Mind sharing where you bought these so folks in the future can find them????? Thanks

Ebay, just one seller.

 

[ham]

Ebay, just one seller.

Link?????????????????

Fun fact eBay currently has over 1 billion items


Thanks

 

[Sepia]

I learned a trick for the front hole, going to be trickier for the back one. As my small magnet was missing, I used a bamboo skewer to poke dental floss across the void. Floss was tied in the thread.



Most of the time when I refer to "epoxy" I'm referring to JB weld. Did you fix one with JB weld or just throwing in 2 cents of opinion?

That dental floss idea is a good one. I am going to remember that!

 

[WadePatton]

Link?????????????????

Fun fact eBay currently has over 1 billion items


Thanks

Sorry I thought the post pic in it had the seller's description and the OEM part number included--and was confused as to your confusion. I'll be right back. See, there's only one seller that shows up with the square head stud if you search Husqvarna 350 stud--that's how I found it.

...
Okay I made a link to work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/390572513905

Appears that plenty of suppliers have that part number, but ebay was the first place I found it. #503875401