Just a question about an old 036

[trans_am2000]

Hello, frequent lurker here. I have an old early 90s 036, probably cut well over a thousand trees at this point in its life. Recently had some issues, got them resolved after cleaning out the carb and the diaphragms but am wondering what the rpm is for these older saws?

I’ve got it running well but this is just a question about the high screw. I don’t know if it’s 13k rpm or not, the newer(ish) 036 models I’ve used with the goofy flip up gas and oil caps always seemed to spin faster but have less power when more than 2/3 of the bar is cutting. This makes me question some of the information out there regarding proper rpm especially on the older saws. Has the Zama carb if it matters. I’ve just always went with the tried and true 1 turn out method on the high/low screws but was wondering if there is anything left on the table doing this?

 

[holeycow]

It's an old saw. It should respond properly to tuning. Learn how to tune. You don't need a tach. Once you learn how to tune a saw you will find that you will tune it slightly differently for different applications; for example, you may want it zingy and quick for lots of limbing and falling small trees, and a little richer and torquier for heavy bucking or generally for long cuts. That's about 3 seconds with your little screwdriver once you learn your saw. It takes longer to get the screwdriver out of your pocket than it does to make the adjustment. Also, weather and elevation changes sometimes require adjustments. It's really simple and takes almost no time once you figure it out and learn your saw. After a while, you know what to do as soon as you hit the trigger when the saw warms up. You'll just hear it and feel it.

PS, older mid-size stihls were factory ported to be torquey buggers. Same era huskies were screamers. The tuning philosophy of those two companies have flip-flopped in more recent years.

Cool that you noticed the difference.

Oh, and "leaving some on the table" is usually a safe bet. Many a saw hand has burnt up their saw by tuning lean to the max.

 

[J D]

Manual says 13500 Max RPM (page 49)

 

[stihltech]

Have not used a tach in years. After the first 40, you know where you want the sound to be in and out of the wood.
That being said- a good idle without the clutch engaging and no stall (with a good clutch). A SLIGHT 4 stroke out of the wood, but smooth power in the wood (always with a sharp chain!).
If it is screaming out of the wood, it's too lean. The piston will let you know shortly.