kilm drying in washington

[nrobert10]

I have run across a black walnut tree about 2 across at the stump and no knots or limbs for at least 8 feet up the trunk. i plan on logging this and milling it down. The 2 questions i have is what is the best size to mill it down to for resale or funiture building. The second does anybody know where i can pay to have this dried or can i air dry it, and how long would it take?

I am in seattle washington
Thanks rob

 

[woodshop]

Many furniture manufacturers won't take hardwood that has not been professionally kiln dried. Many also won't take wood from a tree that was in a yard or along a road due to hardware that could still be in the wood.

As far as what size to mill, that obviously depends on what it will eventually be used for. Example, local woodworkers might want 10x10x4 blanks for turning bowls. Somebody making a bed or chest of drawers would probably start with 4/4 or 5/4 rough.

good luck

 

[mswabbie]

I also would be interested in air drying come lumber. I have some pecan trees that I can have cut into lumber at the local sawmill for .20 a board foot. This would be for my personal use. Does anyone have any recommendations for air drying this lumber or a reference on the right way to do this. I talked to the sawmill owner this morning and he highly recommended spraying both faces of the lumber to prevent insects from boring into the wood. How thick should I have it cut to wind up with finished lumber at 2/4" or 5/4" lumber.
Thanks

 

[woodshop]

Does anyone have any recommendations for air drying this lumber or a reference on the right way to do this. I talked to the sawmill owner this morning and he highly recommended spraying both faces of the lumber to prevent insects from boring into the wood. How thick should I have it cut to wind up with finished lumber at 2/4" or 5/4" lumber.
Thanks

Not sure, but don't think we're supposed to reference other sites directly so I won't, but check out Woodweb, the drying forum, has tons of stuff specifically about air drying wood. Not sure what you mean by 2/4"... maybe you meant 4/4? As for how thick to slice it, that depends on kind of wood, and how well you mill it. I use an alaskan mill to get the log to cants, then a Ripsaw portable bandmill to mill into rough lumber, and for oak I found I need to mill 1 1/8" to get consistent 3/4 finished boards. If it's quartersawn, I can get away with 1 inch thick if I am careful stickering and drying. Maple and Birch tends to cup and twist more than oak, so does some cherry. Poplar and most Pine I can usually get 3/4 finished lumber from only 1 inch rough boards.