Leaning red oak

[Crofter]

I have a 5 or 6 inch DBH red oak that was growing under a now removed poplar. The oak had been force to lean out for light and most of the branches are heavy to the leaning side. Is there much chance of helping it straighten if a cable and come along were put on it and tightend over a period of a year or so. Would tip pruning of the heavy limbs be in order?

 

[NeTree]

I would probably leave it alone, depending on the circumstances. With the poplar out of the way, it will sucker out on the off-side, and eventually fill in.

Just be watchful it doesn't get sun-scorched. If the lean is extreme, and the tree hasn't developed a caliper in reasonable proportion to its height, some reduction on the heavy side may be warranted.

It grew up being sheltered by the poplar; now the poor fella has to go it alone, and bear the full brunt of snow/ice/wind loads.

Consider possible targets if it fails, and plan any pruning accordingly.




Just keep that in mind.

 

[Crofter]

Thanks Netree,

The poplar was leaning toward the house, the oak away so that possibility is ok. I am hoping that branches will sprout on the bare side.
I am pretty much a lurker when it comes to tree care but pick up some points that hopefully will keep me from doing anything too stupid with trees. Amazing what the average person doesnt know about trees!

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Crofter
Is there much chance of helping it straighten if a cable and come along were put on it and tightend over a period of a year or so.
Yes but it will take several seasons. Extreme caution is in order to avoid bark damage. If you use cable you may have to drill and install an eyebolt. I like to use Arbor-Tie, wrapping it in a spiral so there's no girdling.
Would tip pruning of the heavy limbs be in order?

Absolutely. Removal of some may be needed. Also, if you install a cable/guy, you may be able to tie limbs to it, and train them to grow toward the bare spot.

A 6" red oak will be slow and unreliable at putting out enough new growth to develop a balanced crown. It will need some help.

 

[NeTree]

Guy,- Do you really think cranking it over is necessary?

Also, have you had a chance to use the Duckbill anchors yet? And your thoughts on them?

 

[Crofter]

If I were to put some pressure on, how is a good way to keep from damaging the bark. Does point of contact hav to be changed from time to time?

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Crofter
how is a good way to keep from damaging the bark.

As said above, "If you use cable you may have to drill and install an eyebolt. I like to use Arbor-Tie, wrapping it in a *spiral* so there's no girdling." Sap flows laterally, so a double spiral can put on pull and still allow sap flow.

Erik yeah I think some kind of pull would really help. Red oaks down here are not that springy or quick to sprout. And no, I have a pack of duckbill anchors in the shed but I have not installed any. I like using Arbor-Tie,

 

[NeTree]

Guy, the gradual pull was why I mentioned the duckbills. They come with a turnbuckle I can see being cranked a little every so often to achieve that goal. Alternatively, the cable clamps could be loosened and the cable re-tightened if the turnbuckle runs out of room?

Would arbor-tie be appropriate for a tree of this caliper and the tension desired? I haven't worked with it much, and only then on nursery plantings.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by netree
Would arbor-tie be appropriate for a tree of this caliper and the tension desired? I haven't worked with it much, and only then on nursery plantings.

Hard to say without seeing it. Adjustability is an issue where you need incremental pulls, but most often ya pull what ya need the first time, and keep it on until the tree's grown enough reaction wood to keep the position without it.

 

[John Stewart]

Hey
I would just leave it alone it has been growing fine on it's own even if it was hampered by the popular!
Yes, sun scald could be a issue and must be addressed!
If you try to apply any mechanical advantage it will develop irregular cell growth and thus require that stabilty force thru out it's life span!
Also just cause it's crooked doesn't make it sick, weak or unsitely!
A tree is a tree no matter what form it is in "beauty is in the eye of the beholder"
Later
John

 

[John Stewart]

Ah damb chick flicks!
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder sounded good when I said it!
Somebody help me!
Don't let me cross over!
Later
John

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Some good suggestions; i learn a lot hear. This is from folder for discussion on TB of lessons from the storms i started there; in respect to how much of these things of included bark and rooting that Tom got me to think about long ago.

Lean incurs leveragerd force that the adaptive tree can use to even grow stronger. i believe Wulke in fact showed that a perfectly balanced vertical can have more chance of failure, for it doesn't get exercised as much; then if shifted it's leverage increase per degree of movement (that it hasn't strengthened for) is most intense, from pure vertical than any other position! The increase in loading in the 1st degree off pure vertical can be like 50x; same degree of movement from a natural lean position would only increase loading by a percentage, not full multiples!

The dead tree could have been breaking up the wind for the oak or providing support far out/ limiting movement. The extra load of lean, tests the strength more constantly. Any weaknesses in the stalk should be considered, as this is most leveraged from lean. Removing high touching branches from other trees removes support; increased wind increases loading to this weakend support.

Also, the ground connection. Exposed root flair for better health; and an inspection point o the joining to the ground. Not siamesed to another tree or other included bark weaknesses, especially on control side of lean.

The ground itself needs to be sounder, watering less to encourage deep roots. This means not watering for grass 3x a week, but also; not a low area that water drains to, and promotes shallower rooting. Also, when ground is soaked (like dip in ground catching water); is a good time for even a well rooted tree to fall. The extra loaded compression side (more loaded than tension side) seems to give out under these conditions. The compression side will fold at the base of tree; while tension/holding roots may try to hold and rip and shear to stand 10' tall; in contrast to the compression side folding right at trunk.

All things in the puzzle must be considered for best guess! Weight fillin from more sun, would be most favorable, if that was side correcting lean, not adding to i think. Below CG on control side/ counter lean side; being best of 4 quadrants to add weight i think. Opposing, upper quadrant on lean side mow favorable for any lightening up; but not too much as to leave lighter, but also loosened from stabilizing, Natural pulls tree has adapted.

Or, something like that i think!
:alien:

 

[Crofter]

The lean is actually into the prevailing wind but all in all it is pretty wind sheltered. My neighbour is a line maintainance business and at most a box of beer would have his bucket to tip prune the heavier side limbs. It looks happy with a bit lopsided grin but appears in no danger so I am thinking wait and see how much new growth comes on its sparse uphill side next spring. It is about 5 feet to water table on course sand gravel soil.
I have lots of healthy oaks and appreciate the shade but the sap they drip all summer sure gums up the windshield of anything you park under them