List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252

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Plyscamp,

I don't know anyone in northern OR that is running an Alpine, but not sure I'm missing much business because of it. I've turned down perhaps 5 jobs in the last 4 years due to lack of access. But, if I got one perhaps I could let the tree and landscape services in the area know I have one and could get to any stump, where they might not think possible.

I didn't know about the 352 gas engine being a 3 cylinder. I was wondering why on the Vermeer website the literature for the 352 says the torque on the diesel and the gas was the same, 53 ft. lbs. Not sure if it is a typo or if the gas engine w/ three cylinders is just pretty torquey.

Did you see the latest 252? The literature online shows a new feature: an operator's presence gizmo. Somehow the levers know if you let them go for more than .5 second. If you do the clutch disengages, but if you grab again in less than 2 seconds the clutch re-engages. Will have to see one in the showroom, sounds like more to go wrong, but, hey, you never know.

Look forward to your engine mount plate and pulley info when you get a chance, seems the season is heating up pretty quick up here.

Stumper63
 
Intake manifold : If the engine pops on WOT under no load then there is prob an air leak from the manifold gasket (happened twice on mine now) may be due to the odd couple of times its been tipped on its side :cry:

;)

Scouse,

Thanks for that little tip. I've been going crazy trying to fix mine the last week. Mine would only run on the front cylinder sporatically. Barely at idle, and very rough at WOT. I thought it was an ignition problem. Changed the coil, even changed the spark advance module. Tracked all of the wiring looking for breaks or exposed wires. Saw your post about popping with no load at WOT, which mine was doing too. Sure enough, I pulled the manifold and the gasket was shot. A $1.38 gasket, and it is running like a top.

Thanks again. I was about to try and fix the problem with a 10# sledge.
 
I was about to try and fix the problem with a 10# sledge
I know that feeling :D

Glad it helped, brillant when you spend hours and loads of cash trying to fix it then finding out its a £1 gasket :cry:
 
Belts and pulley mods for the SC252.

For the engine to jackshaft belt I use a 2B65 Belt. This will replace Vermeers belt and will work for all horsepower engines, and no pulley changes are required. I buy this belt from bestorque.com for $16.48 Ea. + freight.

For the lower belts I have converted to a 3 groove pulley, 4" diameter top and 7 " diameter lower, using B section or 5/8" belts. The pulleys can be purchased from a local supplier. In the case of the 25 HP Kohler a 2 groove pulley will be more than sufficient. The belts I use are part # BX45 and I also buy these at bestorque.com for 7.99 Ea. + freight. The BX belts are raw edge belts and provide more grip and strength versus the standard B belts.

I find it interesting that the Briggs Stratton 3 cylinder 35HP diesel used on the SC352 has less torque than the 35HP Air Cooled Big Bore V twin I put on my SC252. The Diesel has 53 Ft Lbs. of torque and the V Twin is 57 Ft. Lbs. of torque.
 
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Narrowing a 222 or 252

I am currently running an older Vermeer 222, and was wondering if anyone has tried to narrow the machine to fit though a smaller gate. I was thinking about converting to 4" tires to add a couple of inches of clearance.
 
has anyone found the bestorque.com site. I tried it but can't find it.

Check that web site address please. I could buy two bestorques for what vermeer wants for one of their dayco belts. so it would be helpful. thanks jason
 
Grinder teeth (Frustrated)

What have you guys found out, about the best grinder teeth to use. Been using some teeth from CEI not happy seems like everytime i go out one of the tips break off. Thought about greenteeth, or yellow jacket. Thought about sandvik, but seems pricey.
 
What have you guys found out, about the best grinder teeth to use. Been using some teeth from CEI not happy seems like everytime i go out one of the tips break off. Thought about greenteeth, or yellow jacket. Thought about sandvik, but seems pricey.

I have also been wondering about this question, I seem to dull the vermeer teeth after a few stumps so I either need to find a place to sharpen them or look at a different type of tooth that will get me more bang for my buck.
 
I took the plunge to Sandvik wheel/teeth last summer for my 252, about $1150 to get started, plus stocking spare teeth @$11.50 each. That said, yes it was quite an investment, but worth every penny. I haven't tried anything but Vermeer's ProSeries and the Sandvik, so can only speak to that comparison.
Get the Sandvik! It really does cut much faster, probably 30-40%, way less chip throw, when down in the dirt the rpm's are maintained much better due to way less pocket drag, wheel is 50 lbs heavier so increased momentum keeps you cutting w/o reducing recovery time when you do bog it down (don't ask me how that's possible, it just is), and tooth sharpness and ability to withstand rocks and even occasional rebar/pipe is amazing. I've got almost 400 hours with this setup, no adverse affects on electric clutch, which had 1500 hours on it when I put the Sandvik on.
Easy to sharpen, or DeMott tool can replace the tips for about $7. Looks like you'll ony get one re-tip before the shank of the tool is worn too much. But, seems like I can sharpen them 3 or 4 times before the tooth is done.

So that's what I know about my experience. Couldn't talk about any other manufacturer's products. Hope it helps.

Stumper63
 
Hey Plyscamp,

How's the season going down there? Hopefully well, up here it's been fine.

Getting the thread back on topic a little bit, did you ever get the chance to document the engine mounting plate dimensions and hole pattern and locations for the Vanguard 35hp on your 252?

My 25hp Kohler is still going strong but weeping a bit of oil down low, so if I have to get into it I'll just be changing to the Vanguard.
thanks for your time...

Stumper63
 
I'm happy with my green teeth set up

it cost 260.00 to switch over pockets and teeth on my sc252. New teeth are 6.95. They last good and switch out in minutes due to their new design. no bolts or nuts to switch out teeth. The bonus to that is they have three cutting sides, so you can dull up all three sides before switching out the whole tooth. Its greeneeth.com for any interested people. check it out. jason
 
Stumper63 The SC252 with the Briggs is my son's unit and I don't see it every day as he lives 35 Miles North of me. I will have him bring it down in the next few days and I will measure up the mounting plate. The season is still spotty down here. Seems as though we are busy early in the week and slow late in the week. Good news is April is the first month since August that were ahead of the same month last year.

In regards to Teeth I use the Multi Tip System on all my hydraulic units. As most of you know we grind in a lot of rock down here. The multi Tip Teeth hold up as well as anything I have ever used and I don"t have to deal with those pain in the @ss pockets that create so much frictional drag. One bolt and I change 4 carbides, takes about 30 seconds per tooth. This system also cutts about 30% faster than the Vermeer Pro Teeth. Converted to Greenteeth a few years ago and was not happy with that system. Once you hit a rock you can't grind any relief back into the carbide. Took that system off and threw it away.
 
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Hey Stumper

You like that Sandvic I see. It's an awsome cutting system. I have been very happy with mine. I find the teeth last way longer than Vermeers and the cutting is faster the machine even works better with the larger diameter wheel.
 
it cost 260.00 to switch over pockets and teeth on my sc252. New teeth are 6.95. They last good and switch out in minutes due to their new design. no bolts or nuts to switch out teeth. The bonus to that is they have three cutting sides, so you can dull up all three sides before switching out the whole tooth. Its greeneeth.com for any interested people. check it out. jason

Right now, Greenteeth has the 700 series rock teeth on sale for $3.00 each. No different from the regular teeth except they have a bit of extra carbide. I've been running them even though we don't have rocky soil here and they are doing just fine and at $3 each how can you go wrong.
 
i should have said

I have the new 700 series lo-pro tap and turn. This set up has better clearance between pockets and teeth and the teeth are tap and turn, no nut to loosen. The tooth shaft through the pocket has a spring detent. I use a rubber mallet to knock the tooth down a little, then use my fingers to turn to a new sharp side, and tap back in with rubber mallet. When I first got them I thought there would be no way in hell that a spring detent would hold a tooth in a pocket. But after 3 happily bought sets I havent lost a single one. I can change cutting sides in 2 minutes versus an hour changing the old vermeer pro series that mine came with.
 
I have the new 700 series lo-pro tap and turn. This set up has better clearance between pockets and teeth and the teeth are tap and turn, no nut to loosen. The tooth shaft through the pocket has a spring detent. I use a rubber mallet to knock the tooth down a little, then use my fingers to turn to a new sharp side, and tap back in with rubber mallet. When I first got them I thought there would be no way in hell that a spring detent would hold a tooth in a pocket. But after 3 happily bought sets I havent lost a single one. I can change cutting sides in 2 minutes versus an hour changing the old vermeer pro series that mine came with.


yeah, blah blah blah. I'm mad at greenteeth. They came out with the tap and turn teeth just a couple of months after I shelled out the money for the original ones.
 

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