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hit3rd

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Jul 1, 2003
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Location
southwest Florida
We have a large live oak tree that is estimated to be 50 years old and we are trying to save the tree. Over the past three years it seems that we've had less and less leaf growth. This past winter the tree lost almost all of it's leaves and appeared to be dead.

Much to our surprise, the leaves appeared again in the spring but are very yellow and some appear to be "burned" along the edges. The leaves seem to be very dry and this is our rainy season. It is as if the moisture is not traveling up the tree. We called three arborists to look at the tree and one told us it needed iron, the second told us that it needed magnesium and the third told us that he didn't know.

The problem is that in Floida we have very few trees and also few arborist and none that we could find that specializes in oaks. We would appreciate any suggestions and we can supply pictures if that would help. Thanks!
 
Look at the roots for clues. First, is there a normal looking root flair, or does it go straight down into the ground like a telephone pole? Second, this question is harder than you think, what has been done under the tree's crown in the soil, in the last 10 to 15 years, that may have injured the roots? Any trenching, digging, filling, lawn sprinklers added, compaction, chemical dumping, lawn repair, ect?
This would be my best guess, some kind of root damage. It would be very rare, but not impossible, that a nutrient defiency is the problem. You might ask the arborist who suggested Iron or Manganese, how they came to this conclusion. If he says 'cus the leaves are yellow, he's probably wrong. If he says because this is a common problem in your area because of pH problems or specific deficiencies and he has nursed trees like this back into health before using nutrients, then he may be right.
We have a high pH soil here and I see this Iron defiiciency thing used too much. About 95% of the time the problem is root damage causing the yellowing, and Iron will sometimes turn the leaves green again but it doesn't seem to increase the tree's vigor. Another problem is how you apply the iron, I am strongly against drilling holes into the tree to inject iron, and if the soil chemistry is off or the roots are damaged or both, getting it to the tree is almost impossible.
One way is to correct whatever caused the soil damage, as best you can, possibly air spade work or whatever the case is, then bring the soil pH to an acceptable range, then add nutrients, based on a soil test.
Feel free to post a picture or two!
Good luck,
Mike
 
I think the only honest one was arborist number 3. Saying I don't know is better than taking random shots in the dark.

You get what you pay for with opinions. The best pathology/problem tree guy here is also the most expensive. $100 just to take a look. He is short and to the point with little small talk.
 
As a possible way to eliminate some possibilies, visit our ADVICE at www.mdvaden.com

Go through the Tree Care Advice.

Are any of those principles being violated - for example, one is: is the tree on the downside of drainage of a lawn that gets herbicide treatment? Yes, or no. There's one thing eliminated or possibly added to consideration.
 
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