028S038AV
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi,
I have this saw fixed up and running. There is a line from the Gas to Bar Oil tanks. READing shows there is a ductbill in that hard line. After running the presure gets past the DuckBill ck valve. Oil in the combustion chanber increases the compression making it hard to start and the pull rope pulls out of the hand ..... like the time is off. Pull Plug and with the pull rope get the richness/oil/gas out of cyliner. Then starts right up. RICH mixtures burn slower and that is why the pull roap seems to be off time.
Does anyone know of a "Duct Bill Check Valve replacement thread with pictures so I can see what is up. I found a few threads on this months ago.... but the pictures are missing. This is a nice collectable saw and do not want to screw it up. Might also leave it due to being collector saw.
Thanks for the consideration. I have attached some of the Lombard tech data.
MANUFACTURED BY: LOMBARD. ASHLAND, MASS., U.S.A.. SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: YEAR INTRODUCED: 1965. YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1967. ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 4.2 cu. in. NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1. CYLINDER BORE: 1.87 in. (47.5 mm). PISTON STROKE: 1.50 in. (38.1 mm). CYLINDER
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lombard-chainsaws.232298/
68cc of reed valve snort. Seem to spin higher than their contemporarys. At their best with a 18" or 20" bar.
Only real problem (besides parts availability) is the auto oiler check valve which contains a 'Poulan like' duckbill. Most have turned to goo and they will suck bar oil into the crankcase. The fix is easy but not obvious.
The Lombard oiler check valve fix.
How to replace the Lombard check that has gone to goo.
Run a #10-24tpi tap into the brass sleeve in the outlet untill it stars to turn. Then using the tap or a machine screw pull the sleeve out of the 90 deg. elbow. Clean it all up and use a Poulan (prefered) or Homie duckbill to replace the original. Press the sleeve back in. I helps the scrunch the brass sleeve in your vice to make it a tight fit.
The Lombard valve makes a wonderfull replacement for one on a Remington SL/PL-4 and, with modifications, on the larger Remys.
The Lombard uses the same magnetos by Wico and Phelon that are used on the PL/SL-4 Remys and XL-12/SXL Homies. You just have to watch where the points box is clocked around the crankshaft. I stacked up the flywheels and could see no difference.
Friend Dan's saw has a compression release and I have to use it to get it to crank. The two I have, I put rings in thinking the comp. was low but it made very little difference. Must be a change in combustion chamber size between the different production.
After this thread started, Gave me the nudge to work on this AV model i have. I did Carls trick with
the Homelite duck bill in the oiler elbow and all is well. No more smoking out the neighbor hood.
Thank you,
Fred
I have this saw fixed up and running. There is a line from the Gas to Bar Oil tanks. READing shows there is a ductbill in that hard line. After running the presure gets past the DuckBill ck valve. Oil in the combustion chanber increases the compression making it hard to start and the pull rope pulls out of the hand ..... like the time is off. Pull Plug and with the pull rope get the richness/oil/gas out of cyliner. Then starts right up. RICH mixtures burn slower and that is why the pull roap seems to be off time.
Does anyone know of a "Duct Bill Check Valve replacement thread with pictures so I can see what is up. I found a few threads on this months ago.... but the pictures are missing. This is a nice collectable saw and do not want to screw it up. Might also leave it due to being collector saw.
Thanks for the consideration. I have attached some of the Lombard tech data.
MANUFACTURED BY: LOMBARD. ASHLAND, MASS., U.S.A.. SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: YEAR INTRODUCED: 1965. YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1967. ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 4.2 cu. in. NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1. CYLINDER BORE: 1.87 in. (47.5 mm). PISTON STROKE: 1.50 in. (38.1 mm). CYLINDER
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lombard-chainsaws.232298/
68cc of reed valve snort. Seem to spin higher than their contemporarys. At their best with a 18" or 20" bar.
Only real problem (besides parts availability) is the auto oiler check valve which contains a 'Poulan like' duckbill. Most have turned to goo and they will suck bar oil into the crankcase. The fix is easy but not obvious.
The Lombard oiler check valve fix.
How to replace the Lombard check that has gone to goo.
Run a #10-24tpi tap into the brass sleeve in the outlet untill it stars to turn. Then using the tap or a machine screw pull the sleeve out of the 90 deg. elbow. Clean it all up and use a Poulan (prefered) or Homie duckbill to replace the original. Press the sleeve back in. I helps the scrunch the brass sleeve in your vice to make it a tight fit.
The Lombard valve makes a wonderfull replacement for one on a Remington SL/PL-4 and, with modifications, on the larger Remys.
The Lombard uses the same magnetos by Wico and Phelon that are used on the PL/SL-4 Remys and XL-12/SXL Homies. You just have to watch where the points box is clocked around the crankshaft. I stacked up the flywheels and could see no difference.
Friend Dan's saw has a compression release and I have to use it to get it to crank. The two I have, I put rings in thinking the comp. was low but it made very little difference. Must be a change in combustion chamber size between the different production.
After this thread started, Gave me the nudge to work on this AV model i have. I did Carls trick with
the Homelite duck bill in the oiler elbow and all is well. No more smoking out the neighbor hood.
Thank you,
Fred
