Looking for some Bar info

[JUDGE1162]

First question I am looking to add another size bar and have been shopping around and see a huge difference in prices, but not sure what I need.

Second question is what type chain is best for me again been shopping and see huge differences is cost from brand to brand.

A little info on me and my saw. I am a homeowner with 40 acres in the Catskills, NY cutting mostly hardwoods (Birch, Maple, cherry, elm, oak and some poplar) using it mostly for firewood. I cut about 10 cords a year for a wood stove so lots of bucking some falling. Most trees are under 24” diameter a few big oaks, elms and maples that are 36”+ diameter.

I have a Husky 455 Rancher (Yes, I know it is not a pro-saw but I am not lumberjack), I presently have a 20 inch (stock husky Farm tough bar) which came with the saw. I have been using Husky and Oregon chain (I think they are the same thing) up to this point.

I want to add an 18” Bar as it think the saw would cut better with a smaller bar(after reading items on this board). Should I stick with the Husky Bar, or get a different brand bar, I was looking at the Oregon Powermatch bar or a Windor speed tip do I need a 40 or 50 dollar bar? Would a cheaper bar work for me? IE. an Oregon DOUBLE GUARD.

For chain I have been using Oregon 72LG chain is that good should I be using something different, some people seem to love the Carlton Chain. Any benefit for me to get square ground chain.

Any input would be great

 

[Cut4fun]

I would go to Bailey's online here at the top. Windsor speed tip bars and woodsman pro chains. Great everyday set up for us hackers. Best prices I have found on bars and chains too.

 

[computeruser]

Welcome to arboristsite!

In response to your questions, your choice of chain is appropriate for the work you're doing. Square ground is much harder to maintain and that's a waste of your time for the work you're doing. If you are cutting a lot of dirty wood, you may be happier with a semi-chisel chain, as it will hold its edge a bit better. Lots of posts about chain types, a couple with the past week, so if you're unfamiliar with that terminology or want to read some more on the topic, you'll be able to find good answers pretty quickly.

As for the bars, experience has a wonderful way of guiding you to the right purchase, and if you've been content with your current type of bar then stick with it. Either the Husqvarna-branded version or the Oregon DoubleGuard would work in your application. If you would prefer a reasonably priced solid bar with a replaceable tip, bars such as the WST, GB ProTop or OregonPowerMatch (which Husqvarna paints its name on and sells as its own) would all be good choices. The solid bars weigh more but tend to last longer. You know best which virtues matter most to you in how you use your saw, so choose accordingly!

 

[JUDGE1162]

Thanks for the input so far, is itwork getting a solid bar verus a laminated bar?

spocket nose vs solid?

Another item on the chain, a few months back I picked up two 20" Oregon Multicut M72LP chains cheap from E-bay, I really liked them and they did seem to stay sharper longer, I was thinking of getting some for an 18" bar are they worth it or are they a waste of money?

Thanks again, I look forward to some more input

 

[oldsaw]

Thanks for the input so far, is itwork getting a solid bar verus a laminated bar?

spocket nose vs solid?

Another item on the chain, a few months back I picked up two 20" Oregon Multicut M72LP chains cheap from E-bay, I really liked them and they did seem to stay sharper longer, I was thinking of getting some for an 18" bar are they worth it or are they a waste of money?

Thanks again, I look forward to some more input

Only buy a solid nose bar if you are going to be in dirt and nasty environments. For moderate use, I've got a standard Oregon bar on my Homie XL, and it has lasted a long time. I still haven't used the replacement I bought when I thought it was getting toasty, but it keeps holding on. On a short bar, I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over it.

Not familiar with the chain, so no comment there.

Mark

 

[SteveH]

Bailey's has some of their stuff on sale right now, for Xmas, the catalogue says. I just ordered some things yesterday, saved enough to zero out the shipping/handling. Bars, chain, sharpening supplies, oil, etc.

 

[Four Paws]

10 cords a yeat - I'd go with a Windsor Speed Tip Bar. Available at Bailey's for like $30-35, it is a bargain, and will outlast the *slightly* cheaper bars twice over. Carlton chain is good, I run it and like it a LOT. Several site sponsors sell it at a very good price - check out the sponsors forum.

 

[mbopp]

I wouldn't bother with square ground chain. Unless you're into production cutting of clean wood the extra speed vs added maintenance isn't worth it. Unless you can square file it you'll need to use a grinder to sharpen it. And I'd stay with a sprocket nose bar - solid nose bars take more power to spin the chain vs a sprocket nose.

I don't know if going from 20" to 18" will buy you much, you may like the balance of the saw better. I went from a 20" to a 16" bar on one of my Macs but didn't like it only because I was stooping over too much.

Most of my chainsaw time is spent clearing hiking trails. I'm using Oregon semi chisel or "chipper" chain only because the wood is on the ground & if I dig some dirt I can file it easier. I'm getting better at not digging in and I also give the chain 2-3 strokes with a file when I gas up. The Oregon chain came from CCD but they're no longer in business. I did find a local dealer who has Carlton chain & may try a loop of that.

From reading other threads on chains it seems that Oregon is the easiest to file but dulls the quickest. Stihl chain is the hardest to file but lasts the longest between filings. And Carlton is somewhere in between.

 

[upandcommer]

I have used them all three major types of chain stihl oregon and carlton. My recomendation for someone who likes to cut not file is stihl chain. It is not the fastest cutter in my chain box but the edge will hold up for 3-4 trees before the saw starts to bog aka almost three tanks. I do not hand file i have 3 loops and change them then regrind the used ones when I get home. If speed is what you are after the carlton cuts the fastest from my experience but holds an edge about 75% as good as the stihl and oregon cuts on par with the stihl and the stay sharp of the carlton. Disclaimer all are full chisel ground to 30degree angles by me on my bench mount all used to cut dead hardwoods clean conditions. Again this is my experience. I finally used up my first two loops of stihl chain after cutting up 29 trees and blocking up 22 cords of wood for this season the last sharpening just went on them both.

 

[omegajim]

20 to 18 inch

I would think a 2nd bar would either be 16 inch, or in the unlikely case something large out there looms, a larger bar. Your saw is not really suited for a larger bar, however, not being a professional, you could squeak by with something 24 - 28 inch for the occasional "big one."

By the way, you still have elm in your area? Most Elm here in Wisconsin (midwest really) were decimated some 20 years ago by dutch elm disease. I mean decimated, probably less than 5% survived, if that.

good luck.

 

[Stumper]

If you really meant decimated then you would be saying that one out of every ten were killed. Stupid newscasters have turned decimated into a synonym for devastated. Virtually noone even notices that the Latin roots mean to kill 10% and we blythely repeat a misapplication of noble verbiage.

A 20 inch bar is really a nice length for the Husky Ranchers.-The speed differences gained by shorter bars are small. If the 20 incher is buried the saw is straining but it will pull it. In smaller diameter wood the 20inch is nearly as fast as a 16 working the same diameter. 20 inch bars are easily controlled and balance well while providing extra reach. Havig said that...a 16 inch bar is also nice on 50-55cc saws.