Low-Pro vs Std. Options

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Reeder

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Hey Guys. Here's what I'm considering and I thought I'd get some expert input.

I'm looking at running an Alaskan 36" on a jonny 2094. I'll get a 36" bar and one chain for occasional use. (just in case I find that monster tree) I'm doing lodgepole pine. The largest is about 22", but those are few and far between. Honestly, the standard diameter I'll be milling is 11"-16". 90% of the logs I have are that size (plus it's pine).

I'm thinking running that 36" is a little overkill. I know the saw will do it, but I'm wondering about the extra 2 feet sticking out, having to sharpen a 36" chain vs. a 24", wearing out an expensive bar, lower rpm's, etc. I was also thinking an advantage of setting up to run a 24" bar would be that I could use low-pro chain on it and get faster cuts, less waste.

In a nutshell it looks like this:
24" bar w/ low-pro chain for almost all milling.
36" bar available, std chain (just in case--rare usage)

Will the finish still look okay with the low-pro?

Thanks guys!!

And...of course I'll have pics when I get it all together :greenchainsaw:
 
When I run a chainsaw mill (M7 Logosol) about 90% is with a 16" bar and the low profile chain. As long as you keep your chain sharp and filed at 5-10*, your finish will be as good or better than with a bandmill.

Rodney
 
In a nutshell it looks like this:
24" bar w/ low-pro chain for almost all milling.
36" bar available, std chain (just in case--rare usage)
Will the finish still look okay with the low-pro?

While I might respectfully disagree that you're gonna get a finish BETTER than a bandsaw with any grind of chain, I agree with Rodney that you will do well to mill most of what you can with that smaller bar and LP chain. Looks like you did your homework here, and you are on the right track. That saw will breeze through pine that small like it was butter. Why... almost as if you're not being fair to that pine log.:clap:
 
I'm thinking running that 36" is a little overkill. I know the saw will do it, but I'm wondering about the extra 2 feet sticking out, having to sharpen a 36" chain vs. a 24", wearing out an expensive bar, lower rpm's, etc. I was also thinking an advantage of setting up to run a 24" bar would be that I could use low-pro chain on it and get faster cuts, less waste.

In a nutshell it looks like this:
24" bar w/ low-pro chain for almost all milling.
36" bar available, std chain (just in case--rare usage)

In principle the 36" chain with more cutters should require less sharpening than a 24", so you are not really wasting chain.
Bar wear is an issue unless you have the saw in a fixed mill and are able to use different parts of the bar otherwise all the wear will occur close to the powerhead.

While matching bar/chain length to what you're milling does make sense there are still advantages in longer bars. I am pleasantly surprised that I am able to use just about the full extent of my 42" bar on 24 - 28" diameter truncks to get around single branches or tackling crotches where there is lots of interesting grain action. However, if you're making boards from straight trunks then 24" with low pro chain is a smart move. I've done a similar thing and am setting up my small mill with 20" bar running 0.05" low pro chain to mill up some shorts.
 
Woodshop and BobL:

Hey guys. Thanks for the feedback. I've read so many of your posts, I feel like I know you!

I can't wait to get this mill running. I'm going to panel my woodshop with the slabs as well as use them to build a bedroom set (once they're dried).

Until the saw arrives, I'm still reading everything I can get my hands on.

Ref: the pine--> "I'm coming...and h@ll's coming with me" (Tombstone)...poor little pine...:chainsawguy:

Reeder
 
I can't wait to get this mill running. I'm going to panel my woodshop with the slabs as well as use them to build a bedroom set (once they're dried).

Until the saw arrives, I'm still reading everything I can get my hands on.

Good move, looking forward to the pics if the woodshop and bedroom suite.

:popcorn: :popcorn: :clap:
 
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