Making a D Carb Tool

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Yupper!

Made a puller driver once fer me old E20 rear wheel bearings.

The damned tool was like $300!

Think mine was better.

Yup my dear departed pops closed his shop (Auto) in the late '70s early '80s because of all the different special tools you needed to work on all the brands.

Where was OBDII back then?
 
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That chunk of brass in the third picture was a one-time use drill guide I made to drill out the broken exhaust manifold studs on the 351 in my '94 F250. Dropped them right down the center. That job really sucked, but it came out perfect thanks to the proper tool that did not take that long to make. Eventually it will probably become some other tool.
IMG_5510-800.jpg
 
Oh boy!

Yup Daddy used to get mad at me fer "gettin' in a big hurry". (still hurry more than I would like)

Broke alot of exhaust studs off in me day!
 
sachsmo said:
Oh boy!

Yup Daddy used to get mad at me fer "gettin' in a big hurry". (still hurry more than I would like)

Broke alot of exhaust studs off in me day!
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LOL - he'd have broke those too. I got 4 out but the others were never coming out whole. The manifold had warped so bad I had to pry it off the remaining studs with a pry bar. The studs were fairly well fused into the head and corroded and weak outside. The only chance would have been to burn them out with a torch, but I don't have one.

And this is one of the main reasons I like working on chainsaws. I have never spent a day crawling under a chainsaw in the gravel driveway, scraping skin off my hands, banging my head on hard things and getting rust in my eye.
 
Chris-PA said:
LOL - he'd have broke those too. I got 4 out but the others were never coming out whole. The manifold had warped so bad I had to pry it off the remaining studs with a pry bar. The studs were fairly well fused into the head and corroded and weak outside. The only chance would have been to burn them out with a torch, but I don't have one.

And this is one of the main reasons I like working on chainsaws. I have never spent a day crawling under a chainsaw in the gravel driveway, scraping skin off my hands, banging my head on hard things and getting rust in my eye.
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exactly how i feel. i wanted to be an automotive tech when i was younger. started working on vehicles when i was 7 with my dad and realized by the time i was 11 that job wasn't for me. i don't mind working on my own vehicles but doing it everyday for all kinds of people would suck. i know alot of people who never worked on a vehicle their whole life then went to trades school for it only to find out after it was to late that they hate the job. i am thankful my dad started me out in it when i was young so i could realize i hated it before going into it. i would much rather hammer nails into fresh boards building houses then mess with rusty bolts and parts on a vehicle. i do like building engines for vehicles though. i have my fair share of experiences with those damn manifold bolts and avoid them in any way possible. not a real big deal when the engine is on a stand in the garage but doing them with the engine in the vehicle is a PITA.
 
I have the splined and double D carb tools but needed a D shaped one.
I made one out of a piece of aluminum tubing from the scrap bin.
3/16" id 1/4" od
Shaped it with a pair of needle nosed pliers.
Added a piece of vacuum hose for a grip.
The hose has a ridge molded into one side of it so it is easy to keep track of the turns.

2013-12-26 19.05.47.jpg
 
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billintx said:
I have the splined and double D carb tools but needed a D shaped one.
I made one out of a piece of aluminum tubing from the scrap bin.
3/16" id 1/4" od
Shaped it with a pair of needle nosed pliers.
Added a piece of vacuum hose for a grip.
The hose has a ridge molded into one side of it so it is easy to keep track of the turns.

View attachment 324322
Click to expand...
That ought to work great. Now you need to paint it orange!
 
I finally got around to finishing my home-made splined tool. I decided to make this one a miniature one to keep in my coat pocket. Still have to paint it orange, but at these temperatures that will have to wait. These parts were all various standoffs for attaching electrical circuit boards.
IMG_6052-800.jpg
Now I have to make one for the nubs that are left after I pulled the limiter off the ZAMA on my Ryobi. I guess it would be a Double D as there is a flat on either side, but the first attempt didn't come out so well. I need to start with a smaller hole than 0.201".
 
Use what you got bro'

I once had a boss that had a 'brass rod fetish'. Bet I have a couple hundred pounds of random diameters.

I did one once with heavy wall plastic tubing. perhaps it failed because I drilled it too big?

That brass one is tight, it needs used a little more.
 
milkman said:
I bought a DD for my Earthquake 38cc and then when I got the 45cc, it has the D shaped screws. I took the DD and cut out one side of the DD, it now works on both the DD and the D. I would guess that the D would also work on the DD screws, it would just use one of the flats on the DD.
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I'm not sure if these are really what is referred to as DD. They have two flats, but the head is not fully formed like the big single D screws on some of my other saws. The D tool I made will turn them but it is way sloppy. I don't think it will be a problem to make one, I just need to drill a smaller hole. I'll probably use the lathe at work on Monday, but this time I'll bring a screw with me and make the flats there.
 
I just looked at a set of 4 carb tools on Amazon, and they want 60 bucks. Sorry but somebody is taking some good sh*t.
 
Back in the Quake modding thread someone suggested using electrical Butt connectors. Brilliant and cheap. Here are a couple of pics to show how it works.

Electrical Butt connectors and Torx T25 wrench.
ButtConnectors&Torx.jpg

Here's the quake with the butt connectors inserted. I put one on the torx driver then placed the other end over the carb adjust screw and gave the handle a couple of taps with the palm of my hand. I leave the butt connectors in place - as you can see in this picture:
Torx&Quake.jpg
 
I'm really bored so I went out to the cold barn to see what trouble I could get into. I remembered that I never finished the tool I needed for the Ryobi 10532 carb. After I removed the limiter caps on the ZAMA I was left with these small nubs with a flat on each side. I don't know if these are what is called the DD or not. My first attempt has a hole that was too big, and when I flattened it out on both sides it squeezed down too far and became too wide in the perpendicular dimension. It fit poorly too. So I drilled it with a 0.157" bit that just allowed the cylindrical end to go in and center it, and then I filed a flat notch with and flat mill file. Fits like a glove:
IMG_6077-1024.jpg IMG_6075-1024.jpg
 
Chris-PA said:
I'm really bored so I went out to the cold barn to see what trouble I could get into. I remembered that I never finished the tool I needed for the Ryobi 10532 carb. After I removed the limiter caps on the ZAMA I was left with these small nubs with a flat on each side. I don't know if these are what is called the DD or not. My first attempt has a hole that was too big, and when I flattened it out on both sides it squeezed down too far and became too wide in the perpendicular dimension. It fit poorly too. So I drilled it with a 0.157" bit that just allowed the cylindrical end to go in and center it, and then I filed a flat notch with and flat mill file. Fits like a glove:
View attachment 332612 View attachment 332613
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good ol american ENGINUITY i have to be politically correct:laugh:
 
I've enjoyed reading about all these homemade tools y'all are making. I've just had the same problem with an epa carb that needed adjustment. My method doesn't involve using a lathe or making a tool. I just modify those adjuster needles back to the way they should have been in the first place, and how they used to be. It's a very quick procedure, I've posted a pic of the tools I use to do it. It will void a warranty, however. carb epa 8.jpg
 
chuckwood said:
I've enjoyed reading about all these homemade tools y'all are making. I've just had the same problem with an epa carb that needed adjustment. My method doesn't involve using a lathe or making a tool. I just modify those adjuster needles back to the way they should have been in the first place, and how they used to be. It's a very quick procedure, I've posted a pic of the tools I use to do it. It will void a warranty, however.
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Yeah, but as I've said before, I've come to hate adjusting carbs with a straight slot screwdriver. The anti-tamper ones will stay on a running saw much better and are easier to get on too. I've even swapped some onto carbs that had slotted adjusters. I do wish there had been only one kind though, and of course you could achieve the same thing with a cap head screw or somesuch.

Also, the heads on the screws I showed just above are very small, as are the splined ones, and you'd have a hard time getting a decent sized slot in them.
 

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