Manual Log Splitting Question

[Tom R]

Hi All...I have manually split lots of wood over the years...for four years I heated our home with wood...and other years heated a cabin spring and fall with wood. I am used to splitting with just an axe and chopping block...and lots of energy and "technique".

I have not had much need to split other than some small/mid size popple and pine that split quite easily.

I just took down a very knotty spruce...18"+ diameter and it is a bear to split...pieces are maybe 12-14". I am wondering if I should add a maul or iron wedges and a sledge (sp?) hammer to help at least with the first couple of splits...it goes OK after in half or quarters?

In my "past" I have just sunk the axe in deep in the center of the log and then reversed the log and brought it down on the back of the axe (with the log still on the axe)...worked most of the time. Seems these logs are getting heavier as I get older Thanks for comments. Tom R in Two Harbors MN

 

[Beefie]

It couldn't hurt to add some more weapons to the splitting arsenal.


Beefie

 

[John R]

Go buy a good 8 or 10 pound splitting maul.
They work very good, I used to split my wood with a maul, now I use a hydraulic splitter.

 

[Tom R]

It couldn't hurt to add some more weapons to the splitting arsenal.


Beefie

Thanks Beefie...I see you have a Stihl 131 pole saw? That is next on my list. I believe the 131 is the extendable version with the larger motor?

Seems most really like it...what are your thoughts?

I am getting tired of fighting with a cheap manual pole saw and I need to do quite a bit of limbing.

Thanks...Tom R

 

[TreePointer]

Big knotty logs get noodled here if I can't load them on the hydraulic splitter.

My tendinitis prone elbows made that decision for me.

 

[CTYank]

My experience is that the added velocity you can impart to a 6 lb maul makes it preferable to an 8 lb or larger. Unless you're Andre the Giant. (I use my 8 lb maul just to rub the rust off.)

Knotty conifers can be "prepped" for splitting with a chainsaw- either a "noodled" groove along the length, or a ripped groove across a cut face.

An axe, besides being useful for splitting nothing bigger than kindling, is also much more dangerous. (If you hit the round on the near side and it pops through, the only thing to stop it is your lower leg.)

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Hi All...I have manually split lots of wood over the years...for four years I heated our home with wood...and other years heated a cabin spring and fall with wood. I am used to splitting with just an axe and chopping block...and lots of energy and "technique".

I have not had much need to split other than some small/mid size popple and pine that split quite easily.

I just took down a very knotty spruce...18"+ diameter and it is a bear to split...pieces are maybe 12-14". I am wondering if I should add a maul or iron wedges and a sledge (sp?) hammer to help at least with the first couple of splits...it goes OK after in half or quarters?

In my "past" I have just sunk the axe in deep in the center of the log and then reversed the log and brought it down on the back of the axe (with the log still on the axe)...worked most of the time. Seems these logs are getting heavier as I get older Thanks for comments. Tom R in Two Harbors MN

I can't believe that you get the advice to buy a 8-10# maul when we over the last 30 months have had multiple-several threads about the FSS, Fiskars Super Splitter axe.....

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Fiskar Super Spluitter Review almost 40000views and almost 400 replies

The rest of the posts containing the Fiskars Super Splitter

 

[CWME]

I will second the Fiskars SS vote!

 

[Blowncrewcab]

I will second the Fiskars SS vote!

anything I can't split with the Fiskars goes to the Hyd splitter pile....and that pile isn't very big, I bust most of it with the FSS (Except for Elm, It all goes to the Hyd Pile)

 

[Tom R]

Watched the video...pretty easy straight grained wood...short rounds. Wonder how it does with a bit longer rounds with lots of knots? I have 18" diameter spruce that had many large branches. Somehow I am not convinced FSS would go through 14" deep rounds with big knots that easily. Kind of remind me when I was young and learning to split kindling with 8" sawn pieces of 1x10 pine boards that my dad set up for me to learn on I WISH I had wood like the video to split.

Tom R

P.S. Maybe I need a HYD splitter pile

 

[turnkey4099]

Seems like all the promotional videos of splitters of all kinds only show nice, straight grained stuff. Had to laugh at on based on what looked like 1 1/2 ton jack. 7 strokes to split one piece that would have fallen apart with a hand hatchet one blow.

Harry K

 

[sneno77]

Watched the video...pretty easy straight grained wood...short rounds. Wonder how it does with a bit longer rounds with lots of knots? I have 18" diameter spruce that had many large branches. Somehow I am not convinced FSS would go through 14" deep rounds with big knots that easily. Kind of remind me when I was young and learning to split kindling with 8" sawn pieces of 1x10 pine boards that my dad set up for me to learn on I WISH I had wood like the video to split.

Tom R

P.S. Maybe I need a HYD splitter pile

I cut all my wood 24" for my OWB, and the Fiskars does pretty good. Got some really tough Doug Fir w/ big knots and with a bit of technique it gets through well. This is with rounds up to 30" diam

 

[Streblerm]

The problems I run into when splitting large knotty pine is that the knots are like little dowels that hold the log together.

I like to quarter the big rounds first. I cut right through the knots with the chainsaw. The quartered rounds split easily once you split the "dowels" with a chainsaw.

Fiskars super split is the tool you want to add to your splitting arsenal. I have a 6# and 8# maul as well as one of the 12# triangle wedges on a stick. I have an assortment of wedges and sledges too (which are the most torturous of the lot IMO).

I haven't used anything but the Fiskars for quite some time. If the fiskars won't get it done it gets "split" with a chainsaw or thrown to the side for the hydraulic splitter.

 

[sunfish]

Get the Super Splitter maul! Mine is 5 lbs and splits way better than a larger maul, been using it for years!

Not to be confused with my motor driven Super Split

 

[Tom R]

I am going to get a FSS...I do believe I will keep away from my teenage grandkids and maybe even my 40 year old son who splits wood occassionaly. I read much of the "long" thread about FSS and it does appear you need to be extra careful with the FSS...I do wish it was 6" longer. My thought is much of the "safety" issue has to do with built in swing "memory" from all the years with 30"+ axes.

I may also try one of the generic 32" smaller mauls...like I saw at HD yesterday. HD had Fiskar hedge/brunch cutters...but and off brand of mauls...about $30.

Thanks...Tom R

P.S. I also am going to cut my rounds shorter when I see lots of knots...maybe 10-12"...TMR

Get the Super Splitter maul! Mine is 5 lbs and splits way better than a larger maul, been using it for years!

Not to be confused with my motor driven Super Split

 

[Greenthorn]

I've got the fiskars also, while it is pretty nice, I am not "overly impressed" with it. I constantly use this one truper, I know they're cheap...but they seem to work well and split most all for me. If I have something I can't split, they go to the hydraulic splitter.
While out in the woods if I have rather large stuff, I sledge and wedge it, until it's small enough to manuever around. So, yes....I think you need some wedges! My 2 cento opinion only.

 

[4seasons]

Watched the video...pretty easy straight grained wood...short rounds. Wonder how it does with a bit longer rounds with lots of knots? I have 18" diameter spruce that had many large branches.
P.S. Maybe I need a HYD splitter pile

Lots of splitting is about the technique and aim rather than power. While a hydraulic splitter can power through the middle a tough log needs some shaved off the sides with a maul. This has been discussed many times so I took pictures to explain it better. This is a 16" round of locust (not the easiest splitting wood) 20" long. Rather than splitting like a pie or pizza try hitting your first blow about 4 inches from the side like this.

Then take another 4 inch bite starting where the last split ended.

And then one from the other side

Continue on around taking off just the edge

Until you only have a small center to bust

I have used this technique to bust much larger and tougher wood, this is just what I had around to do a photo shoot on.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Lots of splitting is about the technique and aim rather than power. While a hydraulic splitter can power through the middle a tough log needs some shaved off the sides with a maul. This has been discussed many times so I took pictures to explain it better. This is a 16" round of locust (not the easiest splitting wood) 20" long. Rather than splitting like a pie or pizza try hitting your first blow about 4 inches from the side like this.

Great sequence of pic's....

:agree2: on the " technique and aim rather than power" part too....

 

[John R]

It looks like you bounced off a few times too.
The maul I have is just like that one, they work good.

 

[Tom R]

Great sequence of pic's....

:agree2: on the " technique and aim rather than power" part too....

I with you guys I have split a lot of birch/pine/popple and some oak. The current tree I have is an 18" diameter spruce that had lots of large branches (ie knots) I am guessing there is no easy way to split.

I am going to invest in a FSS (ordered from Baileys today) as well as a 6-8" maul in the future for use on the tougher stuff...perhaps some wedges and a sledge.

I also need to remember to cut my rounds a bit shorter on the really knotty stuff...maybe 10-12" would make it a bit easier.

Tom R