Hi all, can't figure out how to get the recoil spring to rewind on this beast. It's different than most as the spring has to be actually placed in the saw not the recoil cover if that makes sense. Would really appreciate some advice from someone that has done this before. 51665 is the part# of the spring I bought and was assured this was the correct spring for the Super 44.
McCulloch Super 44 recoil spring help
- Thread starter Macgary
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Here is a blowup off of the net.
http://www.michiganssmallengineresources.com/pdf/chainsaw/McCulloch - Super-44A - Parts List.pdf
http://www.michiganssmallengineresources.com/pdf/chainsaw/McCulloch - Super-44A - Parts List.pdf
Thanks very much HarleyT for the parts list, saved it of course. So should I rewind the spring on the drum-starter or the base-starter? Have been rewinding on the base-starter and wound up breaking the end of the spring that goes on the shaft, heated that end of the spring up and made a new bend, thinking I should be rewinding on the drum somehow and then putting it into the base, is this correct?
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Can you put up a pic or two? It looks like you can "pre-load" the tension on the starter assy. before bolting it on the saw, but it is hard to tell from an IPL.
promac850
formerly promac610
I remember messing with this on my 790... twice. What you do is put the spring in the housing, and line up the slot in the small drum of the rope sheave on the end of the spring that sticks out in the middle of the coil. I'm not sure how else to explain it... kinda fussy to deal with. Then you wind it up after wrapping rope around the sheave and then pull the handle outside the hole in the housing and bolt the cover on.
Thanks promac850 for the reply, I'm sure that I'm doing something stupid as I'm new to repairing chainsaws ,we have replaced the spring on a pro mac 10-10 but this is a different animal. Would sure appreciate someone that could walk me thru this, I'm thinking this can't be rocket science. My son took it apart so I'm pretty much lost, next time we will take pictures when doing any repair to aid in assembly.
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Unfortunately what your trying to do is like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, I have rewound a few of those recoil springs and the only thing I recommend is make sure the bend that locks onto the rope pulley is the correct degree of bend (as tight as possible to stay away from the casting that the pulley sits on top of) then let the spring sit at rest before hooking the spring onto the pulley and set the pulley on the casting that the starter shaft runs through, then once the spring is on and the pulley is where it belongs, wind your string around the pulley and give the pulley a couple extra rotations to set spring pre load and then put it together, recoil springs are literally the hardest to do a walk through on good luck
ADLM
promac850
formerly promac610
If you can't get it, let me know. I'm willing to put it together for you. All it would cost is shipping both ways, which there should be a USPS flat rate box that would be about 14 bucks total.
That old right hand starter set up is a little goofy... hence the reason saws from McCulloch later on went to left hand start.
Plus the right hand starter/clutch cover assembly tends to crack and break with high compression... found that out with my 790 and had to buy another assembly. I have ideas to make a steel assembly, but don't have a mill to make some of the parts... nor do I have room for a mill in the first place.
That old right hand starter set up is a little goofy... hence the reason saws from McCulloch later on went to left hand start.
Plus the right hand starter/clutch cover assembly tends to crack and break with high compression... found that out with my 790 and had to buy another assembly. I have ideas to make a steel assembly, but don't have a mill to make some of the parts... nor do I have room for a mill in the first place.
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
I have a fantastic manual milling setup at home, but tools are only as good as the operator, I consider myself a blacksmith at this point tho haha
ADLM
promac850
formerly promac610
Yeah, everything takes some learning... I'd be tickled to have a mill sitting in my barn.
But then you have tooling to buy, and micrometers and calipers and dial indicators and test indicators and end mills and chucks and collets and drill bits and digital read outs and even more stuff...
If I get around to measuring what I need and making some sketches, I will give you a small project to do on the mill...
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
I'm still learning for sure, but in all honesty, we're never actually done learning are we? I like to play around and see what I can do and I like to dream about all the things I can make and I enjoy it even though I'm not very good.
ADLM
ADLM
Wind the spring into the housing.
Leave the shaft out of the starter when you slip the starter pulley into positon, then line it up and put the shaft in. Give it an extra round or two to put some tension on the spring before you attach the starter handle. With the removable cover you don't have any problem getting it together.
Mark
Leave the shaft out of the starter when you slip the starter pulley into positon, then line it up and put the shaft in. Give it an extra round or two to put some tension on the spring before you attach the starter handle. With the removable cover you don't have any problem getting it together.
Mark
Thanks one and all for your help. So if I heat the spring to put it into the correct position to grab the pulley will this weaken the spring or make it brittle? Now I see I have to remove the base-starter from the saw to do this, no wonder I was having problems.
I have heated them and reformed the hooks a number of times, not quite as good as the original but they will work for a while.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Mark, will give it a try!
It's an old thread, but as long as people keep resurrecting dinosaws I figure recoil spring questions will live on.
Here's a picture that should help.
I generally try to stick with no-parts fixes. This is the first time I ever installed a new recoil spring, and a new one doesn't look ANYTHING like what I've been trying for years to re-bend and re-use.
I guess sometimes you just have to buy new parts.
Here's a picture that should help.
I generally try to stick with no-parts fixes. This is the first time I ever installed a new recoil spring, and a new one doesn't look ANYTHING like what I've been trying for years to re-bend and re-use.
I guess sometimes you just have to buy new parts.
