McCulloch Timber Bear

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Picked this up the other day for $20, guy was convinced the saw was dead but as you can see it lives. It will need the chain brake and a felling spike and a sharp chain.

[video=youtube;hcYPsh9CbF4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcYPsh9CbF4[/video]

and some pics. Adjusting the carb is tricky too lean it won't start too rich it won't throttle up, and man does it smoke. I wasn't too sure about it when I first got it but it is starting to grow on me.
 
The 600 Series saws, like all of the old McCullochs, used a pulse operated automatic oil pump operated off crank case pressure pulses. If the seal or diaphragm leak a little they will allow some bar oil to pass into the crank case where it eventually finds it's way into the combustion chamber.

The 600 Series were particularly noted for this feature. They usually clear up after a few seconds of running.

Mark
 
I :love: my 610. She's a good cutting saw. I know I'll really :love: the 850, when I finally get finished rebuilding her. :msp_love:
 
Timber Bears!

It is pretty cool to see that I started something with my posting the other day! Makes me glad to join the various Mac owners that appreciate the Timber Bear saw.

I was able to down load (for a fee) a manual for a slightly different model that will help. I think that I have the 600 per the serial number. If anyone could maybe send me a copy of a manual, please PM me.

Thanks!
 
Timber Bear Still Wins...

Picked this up the other day for $20, guy was convinced the saw was dead but as you can see it lives. It will need the chain brake and a felling spike and a sharp chain.

[video=youtube;hcYPsh9CbF4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcYPsh9CbF4[/video]

and some pics. Adjusting the carb is tricky too lean it won't start too rich it won't throttle up, and man does it smoke. I wasn't too sure about it when I first got it but it is starting to grow on me.
No comparison. My Mac 610 Timber Bear will knock this log down in 10 seconds or less. I know this is true because I tested it last fall on a log the same dia.

Remember, men, the Mac 610 was one of the greatest chain saws ever built.
 
No comparison. My Mac 610 Timber Bear will knock this log down in 10 seconds or less. I know this is true because I tested it last fall on a log the same dia.

Remember, men, the Mac 610 was one of the greatest chain saws ever built.

It is a re badged McCulloch 610. I grabbed a chain out of the needs to be sharpened pile that may not have been the correct gauge and threw it on there for the obligatory first cut video, plus with no dogs to grab the green piece of doug fir. As soon as I get the pieces together I will shoot another vid and I'm sure it will be faster.:msp_rolleyes:
 
It is a re badged McCulloch 610. I grabbed a chain out of the needs to be sharpened pile that may not have been the correct gauge and threw it on there for the obligatory first cut video, plus with no dogs to grab the green piece of doug fir. As soon as I get the pieces together I will shoot another vid and I'm sure it will be faster.:msp_rolleyes:
Be sure that you also do not use a "safety chain" when you do that. That slows the Mac 610 down by 30% or more. Use a chain similar to the typical Stihl chain that I use with my MS 361. Whenever I do that, the vintage 1978 Mac 610 will stay almost dead even with the 2009 MS 361, both saws using the same bar length. :msp_wink:
 
Mark, I am sure I have tromped all over the old Stihl 041 owners, but that's the breaks. The Mac 610 is a better saw for numerous reasons, besides the chain brake that the 041 never had on board. I've worked on both of them in the shop. The Mac 610 comes out in front.

The whole carb assembly and throttle linkage to the trigger that Stihl used for the 041 back then was a joke and designed to disconnect. The spark plug was positioned as poorly as you can imagine, buried deep in the handle. The 041 vibrated like a cement mixer, forcing owners to glue the machine screws.

Hey, I still love the old Mac 610s. Not until the Stihl MS 361 was released did I really think Stihl made a better chainsaw in about the same class. That's why I bought one, even though it cost me four times as much money as my Mac 610 did back in '78.

I too am a Pro Mac fan. Nice well built saw. It reminds me of my first saw, an 041AV. Which had a chainbrake and antivibe. The 2 are very comparable.

Comparing an 041 to a Pro Mac isn't fair unless you are comparing it to the 041 AV version.

Just my $.02,
Marty
 
Like almost everyone here, I have a Pro Mac 610 and really like it. But the little fuzzy stuff around the choke and throttle shafts are gone...I tried to make a replacement, but didn't work too well. Does anyone have a remedy or a source for the replacement little fuzzy stuff? Since it opens into the carb area past the filter, I am thinking it's pretty important. Thanks for any response...
 
Rubber grommets maybe? I just rob them from parts saws if I need them. :rock:

The nicest thing about the 600 series saws is their abundance. Almost every time someone tells me they have an old McCulloch for me it's a 610.
 
seems Mac threads just keep going and going...
been awhile since I've seen another Timberbear around here.
since mine got stolen years ago.

did recently buy an old Mac 250 .... it's cued up waiting for a turn.
probably all Mac 250 needs is plug and carb cleaned to run again.
compression feels real good and she turns over nicely.

got too many dead saws... arrrgggghhhh...
 
A Little Brother

seems Mac threads just keep going and going...
been awhile since I've seen another Timberbear around here.
since mine got stolen years ago.

did recently buy an old Mac 250 .... it's cued up waiting for a turn.
probably all Mac 250 needs is plug and carb cleaned to run again.
compression feels real good and she turns over nicely.

got too many dead saws... arrrgggghhhh...
Well, you could go out, cut some branches, and do some small bucking with this little brother of the Timber Bear:
mac-3.jpg


Mac 3514 with a custom-made hardwood scabbard and chain brake handle.
 
been keeping my eyeballs peeled for a SP125 ... like forever
seems none around here ...
 
Instead of a Timber Bear, that one looks more like a beaver tail!
mac-3.jpg

In a good way of course. :msp_thumbup:
 
McCulloch 60013414

Well guys, I guess I'll jump on into the 7 page list of McCulloch owners. I really appreciate all the information that everyone has posted in regards to these things but I would like help clearing up a few questions that I have if anyone can be so kind. Basically, I got a saw "60013414" and am unclear as to what series this is... I'm assuming that it's a 600 series?!?! but I don't know for sure as I keep reading about 605 series, 610 series etc. etc. so if someone could clear me on that I would GREATLY appreciate it. The chainsaw currently doesn't run but I just got it today and getting it to run won't be a problem at all but if someone has a manual for this particular model that they could maybe email to me or that I could purchase that too would be wonderful. Finally, the chainbrake has broken and still works but the top part has snapped off as it seems a bit less than rugged, although I'm sure anything would break if it was hit just right and I need a bump spike..... I see a few on Ebay but again, because I'm not exactly sure of the particular model of this saw, I would hate to get the wrong one. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes time out for me... Bill Reilly
 
600134 is a Pro Mac 605, the -14 indicates it is a later model. My lists only go up to 1987 which stopped at -06.

With McCulloch it is often difficult to say with certainty as they changed things around quite a lot, but that saw would be 3.7 In³ or 60/61 cc depending on how you round it.

The spike that fits the 600 Series saws also fit the later 10 Series and PM 700/800 etc. PN 93668. They often come in a two pack if you find NOS units so you can mount them inboard and outboard.

This particular saw is the McCulloch 600 Series (610?) sold as a Montgomery Wards TM something or other.

189056d1309464090-dscn2594-jpg


I have never seen a workshop manual for these, but I do have several different IPL's, if you are interested PM me with an e-mail address and I can send one.

Mark
 
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Porting?

I used my 610 Saturday, and in general it seems to bog down too easily. I have done the carb adjustments, seems to run fine, just not much power in the cutting as I have read in other testimonies. So I'm thinking this would be a good candidate for porting and a muff mod. Any advice or wise words specific to this saw before I start? Appreciate any help.
 

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