Milled some Silver Maple today,pics

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wdchuck

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Well the same log that was being discussed is now much lighter.
Haven't tried the chain thing yet, the snow acted like a prop enough to start with, this time.

Took the mill off, changed back to the 24" bar and ripped the side freehand, ugly but it made quite an improvement, would almost call it easy by comparison with the bark and everything. I am open to suggestions, have read alot but learning really happens when the doing starts, and getting it right the first time just isn't any fun.

So, here's where I'm at for the moment:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/woodchuck_photos/CSM pics/Logstobemilled003.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/woodchuck_photos/CSM pics/silvermaple001.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/woodchuck_photos/CSM pics/silvermaple003.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/woodchuck_photos/CSM pics/silvermaple005.jpg
 
Just curious why you put the 2x10? back ontop of your log after the first cut. Was it a spacer so you didn't have to change the depth of cut to get thinner board?
 
I need it for stabilizing the saw/mill when starting the cut, only having one rail on the wood I'll start uphill or downhill and make a mess of things. There's enough going on for me as it is since I'm just starting out, plus, the 2x is less surface area to drag on the mill rails versus the full cut width log face. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, don't know.
 
Nice pics wdchuck. Have you looked at granbergs mini mill yet. Ive been considering buying one when I get the funds built back up a bit. Looks like it would make a nice edging machine. Good looking maple.
 
I will probably have to add something like that to the arsenal, or make one out of some raw materials that are laying around.
 
I need it for stabilizing the saw/mill when starting the cut, only having one rail on the wood I'll start uphill or downhill and make a mess of things. There's enough going on for me as it is since I'm just starting out, plus, the 2x is less surface area to drag on the mill rails versus the full cut width log face. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, don't know.

Nothing wrong at all... I rarely ride either of my mills right on the wood surface just cut. You can get away with it for one or maybe two cuts if you're in a hurry, but then the defects start to multiply. Also, as you say the mill rides easier on that flat 2 by than the rough sawn cant.
 
Nice Pics. I also see a real improvement taking the bark off the log first. After setting up the circular saw and ripping 20-30 boards to remove bark and sap wood off both sides PITA! I have one of the $29 Ebay Chinese Beam Machine knock offs, and it works just fine for edging logs. Make a good first cut with the mill, position a 2 X 4 for the beam machine guide, trim both sides. Chains stay sharp longer, smother cuts, no trimming later. Good job on the Maple.
 
Thanks guys.
Found out something else, if there is any trace of snow on the guide board, the exhaust will melt it, then the sawdust sticks to the wet spot, freezes, starts to resemble a lunar landscape, it took a couple passes before I realized the saw dust was no longer being pushed in front of the frame, instead it was all riding over it.
Learning, always learning, I'll have to find my watch and time the cuts, it seems to go fairly quickly.
 
wdchuck, just fyi

looks like u r using a round chisel chain by the cross marks left by the chain. i find that a semi-chisel leaves a smoother cut. also try to refrain from rocking the csm from one cutting edge to the other. both wil leave a smoother finish if thats important.

also, attach 4-6 bungie cords end to end and hook them csm on the end away from engine and to something (maybe a steel spike driven n the ground) past the other end of the log. they help to pull the far end of the csm along. dosent take much to help a lot. cords wil b parallel to log. u wil figure it out if thats not clear.
 
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Thanks, I was just working with what I had, still trying to get my 075 going proper, that has a Bailey's ripping chain for the 42" bar.

It does go fairly easy so far, I can only imagine that it will be better yet with the right chain, and stronger saw.

Good eye there mate.
 
The nice thing about the Beam Machine is that it runs on a little track. It is just an upside down aluminum V channel. I thought it was stupid at first but there's just about no friction.

I think I'm going to end up using a fiberglass ladder for my platform. Light and stronger than the Al ones. I'll probably even take out some rungs to save some weight. I'll have to experiment tomorrow.
 

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