Milling article in Wood Magazine

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curdy

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Just thought I'd mention that for anyone that didn't know...

The May 2007 issue of Wood Magazine has a decent article on milling.

I haven't had the chance to read the entire article yet, but liked what I've read so far. There's a cool jig for sawing up crotch pieces on your band saw. I have a bunch of smaller pieces that just weren't board diameter, so they'll be perfect for this I think.

Now all I have to do is go pick up the band saw I bought...
 
Thanks for the note. I have that magazine on my nightstand but haven't even read the cover, much less opened it. I guess I know that I'm reading tonight.:)

What bandsaw did you buy?
 
Nice basic 14" Grizzly. G1019 is the model number. Has a really nice after market fence on it. I need to get a riser block for it though. Bought it used with a bunch of other equipment from a nice guy who's local to me. He's moving to the DC area and can't take it all with him. When I get all the equipment to my house and get it set up I'll post some pics.
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curdy--you sure that machine is used????????? it looks like brand new!!!!! nice buy--was at a auction about 2 years ago--big grizz planer--no motor---wasnt ready for a planer yet--it went for-----------------------20.00!!!!!! want paying attention--oh well---
 
I'm going to have to go out and find one. I have a subscription to fine woodworking, but any info on resawing is good for me at this (new entry) point.

I bought a Ridgid BS1400 last fall from a friend for $100. It hadn't been used even 10 hours! He didn't really use it, and didn't like the vibration & small motor. I'm going to replace the belt with a link-belt type which is supposed to help vibes a lot.

I just put on a 1.5HP single phase Leeson (made in USA) that I found on Ebay for $60. New coolblocks installed, and I'm waiting on a riser block on backorder. Next step is a decent fence; my friend who sold it to me bought it as a floor model w/o the fence. I got a little pic on how to modify a standard fence for resawing, but anybody else out there have any good designs??
 
I honestly don't want to put any damper on anyone who wants to try and mill or resaw using a 14 inch bandsaw. Just want to let folks know the whole score. The problem is power, and using a machine to do something it wasn't really designed for. The latter I am guilty of with most of my power tools from time to time, but the power issue you can't run from. A good analogy would be... you really can't mill 30 inch wide hardwood with a 30cc chainsaw. I get Wood mag, and read through the article last week. Before I bought my larger resaw bandsaw I used to "mill" small logs on my Delta 14". One thing I can tell you from experience is that in general, the 110v motors on them, usually from 3/4 up to 1 1/2hp, aren't beefy enough for the job. It will eventually slice through the piece, but painfully slow for dense stuff over 6-8 inches thick. Also, especially for wet wood which is usually what you want to mill, you need a very sharp resaw blade that won't clog up with sap and wood debris. What happens is your blade gullets start to fill with sap and wet wood and that wet sawdust gets mashed onto the sides of your blade and also coats the rubber tires on your bandsaw wheels. That causes the blade to cut like it was dull, and it starts to "bow" in the cut and gets hot and even starts to smoke. I remember getting to the point many times where I had to stop in the middle of a cut, turn off the machine, wiggle the wood out of the blade, clean the blade with a brass brush and knife, and then go back and keep going. Some wood works better than others of course. I recall that wet butternut was particularly difficult to mill/resaw on the bandsaw. Some types of pine and white cedar can really gum up your blade and tires too. The blade is relatively easy to clean with a brass brush and knife while it's running (I know... dangerous to do, so don't say I told you to), but getting mashed sap and gum off the tires requires more work. The easiest way was to use a brass or nylon brush against the tire while spinning it around by hand but that's also hard on the rubber tire. The harder neoprene tires are easier to clean when this happens, but still no fun. The main problem of sap and mashed lumps of wet sawdust accumulating on your tires is that the blade doesn't track as it should, and your bandsaw won't run as smooth.

Again... not to put a damper on things, but keep in mind you are pushing the envelope and there are problems the article doesn't really address as much as I personally would have if I were writing it. Then again, I'm not a writer, and I'm not selling magazines. Having said that, for smaller dia pieces, you really can use it as a "poor mans bandsaw mill" so to speak if you go slow and address the sap/wet sawdust clogging issues by avoiding some woods, and periodically cleaning your blade and tires.
 
I honestly don't want to put any damper on anyone who wants to try and mill or resaw using a 14 inch bandsaw. Just want to let folks know the whole score. The problem is power, and using a machine to do something it wasn't really designed for. The latter I am guilty of with most of my power tools from time to time, but the power issue you can't run from. A good analogy would be... you really can't mill 30 inch wide hardwood with a 30cc chainsaw. I get Wood mag, and read through the article last week. Before I bought my larger resaw bandsaw I used to "mill" small logs on my Delta 14". One thing I can tell you from experience is that in general, the 110v motors on them, usually from 3/4 up to 1 1/2hp, aren't beefy enough for the job. It will eventually slice through the piece, but painfully slow for dense stuff over 6-8 inches thick. Also, especially for wet wood which is usually what you want to mill, you need a very sharp resaw blade that won't clog up with sap and wood debris. What happens is your blade gullets start to fill with sap and wet wood and that wet sawdust gets mashed onto the sides of your blade and also coats the rubber tires on your bandsaw wheels. That causes the blade to cut like it was dull, and it starts to "bow" in the cut and gets hot and even starts to smoke. I remember getting to the point many times where I had to stop in the middle of a cut, turn off the machine, wiggle the wood out of the blade, clean the blade with a brass brush and knife, and then go back and keep going. Some wood works better than others of course. I recall that wet butternut was particularly difficult to mill/resaw on the bandsaw. Some types of pine and white cedar can really gum up your blade and tires too. The blade is relatively easy to clean with a brass brush and knife while it's running (I know... dangerous to do, so don't say I told you to), but getting mashed sap and gum off the tires requires more work. The easiest way was to use a brass or nylon brush against the tire while spinning it around by hand but that's also hard on the rubber tire. The harder neoprene tires are easier to clean when this happens, but still no fun. The main problem of sap and mashed lumps of wet sawdust accumulating on your tires is that the blade doesn't track as it should, and your bandsaw won't run as smooth.

Again... not to put a damper on things, but keep in mind you are pushing the envelope and there are problems the article doesn't really address as much as I personally would have if I were writing it. Then again, I'm not a writer, and I'm not selling magazines. Having said that, for smaller dia pieces, you really can use it as a "poor mans bandsaw mill" so to speak if you go slow and address the sap/wet sawdust clogging issues by avoiding some woods, and periodically cleaning your blade and tires.

Well said, Woodshop. I must say I'm guilty of the same thing. "Milling" odd-ball bits and pieces of trees on a bandsaw in a school woodshop is how I got into this mess I'm in today. I just didn't know when to stop... still don't.
 
Yeah, that is good info. Experience is the best teacher...most of all when its coming from someone else that you know is a good source (which woodshop is)! If I take small crotch pieces that are firewood length and let them dry for a year or two...Think I'll still run into the same problems?
 
Yeah, that is good info. Experience is the best teacher...most of all when its coming from someone else that you know is a good source (which woodshop is)! If I take small crotch pieces that are firewood length and let them dry for a year or two...Think I'll still run into the same problems?

You can mill wet wood on you're 14 inch bandsaw, just will go slow, and again, you need to take the time to periodically clean up the sap/wet sawdust problem. I mill smaller "logs" and cutoffs on my larger resaw bandsaw all the time. It has a 220V 2 1/2 hp motor and I built a small outfeed table for it specifically for doing that. But it still bogs down and I have to take it slow for anything over 8 inches, and I still have the wet sawdust clogging problem, mainly because those bandsaws are not designed to handle that. I just deal with it, and go from there. All I wanted to do above was make folks aware that it's not quite as easy as that article infers.
 

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