traut811
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey guys. Long time lurker, first time poster. You all are awesome so hoping someone may be able to help me out here.
I acquired an MS180C from my dad. It was hurting but had a good bar and chain on it so figured why not. I cleaned it up well and did the following:
-Engine is fresh - piston, rings, cylinder walls are perfect with no grooving, bottom end was sealed with MotoSeal (permatex, its what I always use on powersports bottom end cases). Ring gap and everything looked fine
-Gapped coil to .003"
-Did an eBay WT215 swap - JB welded the impulse hole and removed the plug/ball in the center to get it to line up correctly. The transfers line up perfectly
-Muffler mod - removed arrestor screen, enlarged baffle holes, bent open fins slightly
-Advanced timing - Per a couple posts on this site, I saw to mark the outside of the flywheel with a reference point, file the key, and rotate anywhere from 5 to 6mm from this OD mark. I went 5mm.
-I plugged the old airbox hole with JB weld since I saw this was no longer needed. Is this recommended, or should I just install the compensation plate "thing" on the WT215 and use this again?
-The rest was just access holes to the H/L/idle screws for the carb
The saw starts up on choke easily (initial start up, it smoked because I used stihl HP premix oil on the cylinder/piston/rings during assembly). As soon as the choke is removed, the saw falls on its face. It will rev up but you cannot let it get below 1/4 throttle without choking it again or it flat will not idle.
I am pretty happy with the high and low speed settings on the carb. They're ~1.5 turns out/ea but can get an exact if needed.
I do not have access to a vacuum tester but can buy one if that is needed. The saw has tons of compression so am not leaning towards that being an issue. It smokes like it's rich and the plug is wet when I pull it.
I'm down to either wondering if timing was advanced too far (it does not seem like this is the case, and have not experienced any kickback when pulling the rope)
or
has anyone had to drill a small hole in the butterfly valve to allow it to idle? This seems excessive on something like this but did not remember seeing that being a "thing" when modding these little saws. I am using the Stihl HD filter. I do not think there are any air leaks. I also do not really think I'm getting any difference with adjusting the idle screw, perhaps the arm is bent where it contacts the tapered end of the idle screw not allowing it to open up enough on idle?
This was a long post (sorry guys). Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
I acquired an MS180C from my dad. It was hurting but had a good bar and chain on it so figured why not. I cleaned it up well and did the following:
-Engine is fresh - piston, rings, cylinder walls are perfect with no grooving, bottom end was sealed with MotoSeal (permatex, its what I always use on powersports bottom end cases). Ring gap and everything looked fine
-Gapped coil to .003"
-Did an eBay WT215 swap - JB welded the impulse hole and removed the plug/ball in the center to get it to line up correctly. The transfers line up perfectly
-Muffler mod - removed arrestor screen, enlarged baffle holes, bent open fins slightly
-Advanced timing - Per a couple posts on this site, I saw to mark the outside of the flywheel with a reference point, file the key, and rotate anywhere from 5 to 6mm from this OD mark. I went 5mm.
-I plugged the old airbox hole with JB weld since I saw this was no longer needed. Is this recommended, or should I just install the compensation plate "thing" on the WT215 and use this again?
-The rest was just access holes to the H/L/idle screws for the carb
The saw starts up on choke easily (initial start up, it smoked because I used stihl HP premix oil on the cylinder/piston/rings during assembly). As soon as the choke is removed, the saw falls on its face. It will rev up but you cannot let it get below 1/4 throttle without choking it again or it flat will not idle.
I am pretty happy with the high and low speed settings on the carb. They're ~1.5 turns out/ea but can get an exact if needed.
I do not have access to a vacuum tester but can buy one if that is needed. The saw has tons of compression so am not leaning towards that being an issue. It smokes like it's rich and the plug is wet when I pull it.
I'm down to either wondering if timing was advanced too far (it does not seem like this is the case, and have not experienced any kickback when pulling the rope)
or
has anyone had to drill a small hole in the butterfly valve to allow it to idle? This seems excessive on something like this but did not remember seeing that being a "thing" when modding these little saws. I am using the Stihl HD filter. I do not think there are any air leaks. I also do not really think I'm getting any difference with adjusting the idle screw, perhaps the arm is bent where it contacts the tapered end of the idle screw not allowing it to open up enough on idle?
This was a long post (sorry guys). Thanks in advance for any help or advice.