No face 243
ArboristSite Member
I just picked up a ms 250 with and 18 in bar .325 pitch .063 gauge, what is the best bar to go with? I was looking to get a 20 inch bar and chain. is that to much for the saw?
Ms 250 max bar size
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18" is the longest "3005" small mount series that Stihl makes, which is what that saw is, unless I'm wrong.
It would pull a 20" somewhat, but is a little beyond a 47cc saw's capability.
18" is as long as you want to go on that saw.
It would pull a 20" somewhat, but is a little beyond a 47cc saw's capability.
18" is as long as you want to go on that saw.
I agree. I have ran longer bars than desired with skip. Also you can keep depth gauges high if you must use a saw that's not quite enough grunt. I've done it it's not desirable
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Your correct on all points. 18" is max for the 250.
You can mount longer bars on that saw, but I really think that it is best suited for a 16" bar.
Philbert
Philbert
SteveSr
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That saw really cuts good when converted to a 3/8" low profile B&C (Stihl Picco - PM). With LP it will probably almost keep up with a MS260. I would also recommend a 16" bar. I don't know what Stihl was thinking when it put an 0.325 16-18" bar on that saw. They must have been trying to sell more 260's!
I have a 16" 3/8 LP on mine and it makes it a much better saw. Remember these aren't really pro saws, if you want a longer bar why not get an 044 or something like that..
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 4 or so guys local to me are all now running 16" bars with Lo Pro Chain. I converted one to this set up & sold it on to 1 of the 4 it out performed the others so I got the job of changing to the same set up, & couple are on PM chains& the others on PS 3/8 X 1.3 I bought 6 16" bars to suit Stihl from a snake oil salesman they are " Yatomi" brand solid with nose sprocket, not Laminated, for equiv of around $8 each, they have been really good only problem the last time he called he didn't have any & thought his supply had dried up typical when you think you are onto a winner.
No face 243
ArboristSite Member
Yeah always keep in it sharp just itching to go cut some wood with it
B440
ArboristSite Operative
I've always been under the assumption that max recommended bar length is based on the oiler's ability to keep the entire bar lubed. True, or no?
Yes, that is important, but not the only factor.
- balance is important: OK for a saw to be nose heavy if only bucking, but that can be an issue when limbing;
- friction becomes an issue with longer bars, reducing the effective cutting power of the saw, even if the bar is not fully buried in the wood;
- power is also a factor when counting the number of cutters which need to be pulled through the wood at any one time. Skip chain can help to some extent with this, and is often seen on underpowered saws sold with longer bars, to make them look like more powerful or 'bigger' saws.
All in, it is a combination of the powerhead, bar length, drive sprocket, chain size/type, and type of cutting that determine the best performance. Every saw has a 'sweet spot' IMO.
Philbert
How is the conversion to LP done? Does the chain catcher need to be replaced?
I'm wanting to use the Oregon Power Sharp system that only works with 3/8 LP.
My MS250 has 18" bar, .325 pitch and .063 gauge.
I love my MS250 as it is, but i would be willing to go down to 16" to be able to use the Powersharp system.
As I recall, the 18" bar for the 025 and 250 is about the same length as a 16" bar for the 026 -- maybe one more drive link. You do not pick up 2".
Just need to get a 3/8 low pro ('Picco') spur sprocket/ clutch drum from a STIHL dealer.
Philbert
The MS 250 series saws (025, 230, etc.) use a small mount STIHL bar. MS260 series saws use the larger mount.
Years back, when we switched from 16" MS250 saws (.325 pitch, 0.063 gauge chains) to 16" MS261 saws with the same chain, I had to spin up the loops from 62 drive links to 67 drive links. The chart shows that the MS250 with an 18" bar uses 68 drive links, so you are right! Seems oddly confusing for a company like STIHL that is obsessed with consistency.
Philbert
That will get you a 6 tooth spur sprocket attached to a clutch drum. For similar $ a splined drum and picco 7 tooth rim is available.
OEM or ?
I have only used spur sprockets on the 021 / 025 / 250 series saws.
Thanks.
Philbert
Stihl offers 3/8 picco rim and sprocket kit as an option.
Part number 1123 007 1030.
Above is a quote saved to file and it comes up in search as an 2008 post. I have the ms251 and that "kit" it is the mini spline that is pretty stihl specific. Only Stihl seems to make genuine picco sprockets for that but I have both GB and Stihl branded .325 mini splined sprockets in 7 teeth.
There is also an Oregon drum with the small spline, (as well as off brands on ebay) Those will allow one to play around with a 9 tooth rim for 1/4 chain, .325, and the smaller diameter rim sprocket for "normal 3/8"
Actually I adapted one of those so called 20 inch GB bars that Left coast was selling at low cost. The 6 tooth spur and 67 dl or the 7 tooth rim and 68 dl fit for that. Everyone is different but that is the only time I mount the 6 tooth spur. In the spirit of the thread title here I do believe Cannon offers their universal mount slender bars with noses for picco or 3/8lp in the called length of 20 inches. Huskybill has put up links, aliexperss or something like that where I wandered to skip chain for $200 per hundred feet in 3/8lp so these saws should be able to go to 24" easy.
