Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
I'm thinking you may get into more money than the saw is worth. If the cylinder cleans up then you may be OK. Just do like the last poster said and add up your cost before you go into it.
MS250 Piston Runs Good but look at Piston!
- Thread starter Hermann
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Hermann
ArboristSite Operative
I am only in this for 38 bucks so far, for new piston and rings, I think the cylinder will clean up ok. My only concern is the bearing on the flywheel side of crankcase is loose on the shaft as I show in the picture it moves freely left and right, besides that the bearings both appear in good condition as far as internal play goes. The bearing IS held in place by the crank cover/bottom clam shell so it can't move on shaft left or right like I show in the picture - and if there is no other play, or wear marks on crank or case, do I need a new bearing, or perhaps just seals?
That crank bearing should have an interference fit on the shaft. Look at the other side and compare the two. Also look at the crank area where it rides but if it moves really easy it sounds spun to me.
Just remember there are two type of crank seals
Just make sure you get the same ones that it came with (saw); the last 250 I built i tired to use the other seals but it didn't hold the pressure test and they are Stihl parts.
The seals will run you about $17 a piece
Here are the two part # 9638 003 1581 - # 9639 003 1585
Bearing # 9503 003 0340
Like a bone head I thru away the paper that had numbers on it that I used
Last 250 I rebuilt I put $130 into it and sold it for $230
Just make sure you get the same ones that it came with (saw); the last 250 I built i tired to use the other seals but it didn't hold the pressure test and they are Stihl parts.
The seals will run you about $17 a piece
Here are the two part # 9638 003 1581 - # 9639 003 1585
Bearing # 9503 003 0340
Like a bone head I thru away the paper that had numbers on it that I used
Last 250 I rebuilt I put $130 into it and sold it for $230
Last edited:
Zombiechopper
Addicted to ArboristSite
if the bearing is loose on the shaft you lost metal from the inner bearing or the shaft, or both. It is possible that you will need a new crank, new bearings, seals, the piston/rings, and did we hear yet that the cylinder is useable?
I think you might have a parts saw. Depends on the crank and cylinder though....
I think you might have a parts saw. Depends on the crank and cylinder though....
Hermann
ArboristSite Operative
pardon my ignorance, but are seals recommended to be replaced automatically on a tear down or only if one suspected a leak?
also checked the 'spun' bearing - it is that the word for this condition?? - any way the shaft looks good and must be the inner bearing wearing down, since it slid right off the entire shaft and I didn't see any signs of scoring. Would I be a fool to think I can just get one bearing from the dealer and be good?
pardon my ignorance, but are seals recommended to be replaced automatically on a tear down or only if one suspected a leak?
also checked the 'spun' bearing - it is that the word for this condition?? - any way the shaft looks good and must be the inner bearing wearing down, since it slid right off the entire shaft and I didn't see any signs of scoring. Would I be a fool to think I can just get one bearing from the dealer and be good?
It is made to be snug not slide. did you compare it to the other side?
Hermann
ArboristSite Operative
Good idea! I just tried the loose bearing on the other side and it slides right on and off there too, but I don't have the other bearing off the other side - it is on tight like it should be.
I think the crank could be worn where the bearing sits or you could get lucky and it is just the bearing that is worn?pull the good one off and try it on he ignition side. If you try the good one and it still is loose the crank is worn and it will repeat all this stuff that happened again if you rebuild it the way the crank is. THE BEARING MUST BE TIGHT!
Last edited:
Hermann
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks lone wolf, I pulled the good bearing off and it is was tight on the other side, the loose one slides on and off both sides, so now I am hoping I am good to go with new bearings and seals. New Meteor piston arrived today
Thanks lone wolf, I pulled the good bearing off and it is was tight on the other side, the loose one slides on and off both sides, so now I am hoping I am good to go with new bearings and seals. New Meteor piston arrived today
Good news there. Now be careful with the cyl use acid not a hone to get rid of the metal. That is only a very thin plating there so you cant remove any material just what stuck to it. also check the ignition side case where the bearing sits and make sure that is not loose it needs to be tight so the bearing dont spin on the outer surface too.
Last edited:
Hermann
ArboristSite Operative
ok, thanks again! I did just go check out the case where the bearings lie, and it looks fine, don't think it was spinning at all on the outside. will use muriatic acid to clean up the cylinder, I am pretty happy with the condition very smooth except maybe right by the exhaust port opening. Looked at the muffler and pondered widening it bit, but I am getting way ahead of myself..:msp_ohmy:
Dont get the acid on your skin.
