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While it is down/apart, you ought to get a new line, as the old one might be losing it's grip...
MS250 revival & carburetor part #
- Thread starter Jp_over
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While it is down/apart, you ought to get a new line, as the old one might be losing it's grip...
Jp_over
ArboristSite Lurker
Update - looks like it was the impulse line as the saw is now running decent. I'll put it through a few hour's work tomorrow for a full eval.
Unfortunately, the local Stihl shop didn't have the correct size impulse line (the one they gave me to try out was too short at 1.5") but they said I could return it. The parts guy said he had never seen one replaced/wore out. Guess he hasn't been there a while?
I installed the new pull cord without much issue after watching a donyboy73 video but my old cord was several inches shorter than the recommended 32.5". Now, when I crank it there is a bit of "jerkiness" and I'm not sure if this is because the impulse line is now working as it should or if I've made an error in not using a longer pull cord. Will know more tomorrow after some chores.
HarleyT,
I was just thinking that I need to pick up some forceps / hemostats. I'm guessing a curved and straight set should do well if I can find some with the smooth faced grips.
All,
Thanks for the great help in diagnosing this problem & adjusting my carb!! Now I can get back to
Unfortunately, the local Stihl shop didn't have the correct size impulse line (the one they gave me to try out was too short at 1.5") but they said I could return it. The parts guy said he had never seen one replaced/wore out. Guess he hasn't been there a while?
I installed the new pull cord without much issue after watching a donyboy73 video but my old cord was several inches shorter than the recommended 32.5". Now, when I crank it there is a bit of "jerkiness" and I'm not sure if this is because the impulse line is now working as it should or if I've made an error in not using a longer pull cord. Will know more tomorrow after some chores.
HarleyT,
I was just thinking that I need to pick up some forceps / hemostats. I'm guessing a curved and straight set should do well if I can find some with the smooth faced grips.
All,
Thanks for the great help in diagnosing this problem & adjusting my carb!! Now I can get back to
Jp_over
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, 1 tank of fuel and while the engine is running strong and idling great, unfortunately now the clutch sounds out of sorts (good bit of rattling even with a tight chain).
After watching a few videos, I think it might be the needle cage bearing and sprocket. Will post back with an update after disassembly...
Yep, needle cage bearing was trashed and sprocket is showing some wear.
After watching a few videos, I think it might be the needle cage bearing and sprocket. Will post back with an update after disassembly...
Yep, needle cage bearing was trashed and sprocket is showing some wear.
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Put up some pics of your chain, and sprocket.
Jp_over
ArboristSite Lurker
Got it figured out. I took my sprocket in to the dealer and he said it didn't need replacement.
Turns out I had done some cutting too close to the ground and gotten all manner of trash/debris/sawdust in my clutch assembly. The cage/needle bearing was destroyed and the worm was a bit damaged. Got it all back together with a new cage bearing & worm drive and will be more careful going forward.
Turns out I had done some cutting too close to the ground and gotten all manner of trash/debris/sawdust in my clutch assembly. The cage/needle bearing was destroyed and the worm was a bit damaged. Got it all back together with a new cage bearing & worm drive and will be more careful going forward.
