MS250 WANT TO CHANGE IT UP

[larryms290]

Would like to hear some experienced users of the 250 opinions on what all they have tried to make it work just a little better. I have one as my light saw (understand it's a homeowner saw), and I'm not impressed with the lower power but like how light it is. I'm thinking of trying some LO PRO chain on maybe a 16" Bar. It currently has Carlton K3L chain (similiar to Oregon 22LPX) on a 18" bar and I don't like the way it wants to lug down or not spin up good in the wood. I've never tried Low Profile chain but this might be a good place for it. I did get a roll of it the other day to supply some customers. It's Woodland Pro 30LP I believe. Any thoughts??

 

[Khntr85]

Well I did a muffler mod on my 250, opened exhaust fins, and then shaved the stop on the H screw to make her run a little fat.... The MM helped I can tell for sure... I have a 18 B&C on mine and I only cut hard wood, and I have never had a problem... Of course I have bigger saws for the big timber though!!!!

 

[larryms290]

I did some with the muffler, but I don't like how it's built, kinda hard to do much to it. The dang muffler cover is right where you would like to drill. Not sure what you mean about the H screw ?? Sounds interesting, can't you just adjust it how you want it?

 

[Khntr85]

Well I don't know if you have or not but please take the muffler off the saw if you haven't, to protect the piston and cylinder while you are modifying it......you also have to take the cover off.....it's so much easier to work on when it's off the saw.... The H adjustment screw has a limited were you can only turn it up so high.... You need to check first and research what carberator you have, as some do t have all adjustment screws....

 

[SteveSr]

Has anybody tried the Stihl 3/8" .050" PM (Picco) B/C on this saw? I bet it would cut a LOT better than the .325/.063" that normally comes with it. It would also make it lighter too!

 

[larryms290]

Well I don't know if you have or not but please take the muffler off the saw if you haven't, to protect the piston and cylinder while you are modifying it......you also have to take the cover off.....it's so much easier to work on when it's off the saw.... The H adjustment screw has a limited were you can only turn it up so high.... You need to check first and research what carberator you have, as some do t have all adjustment screws....

Yes, of course I took the muffler off, I've had it off twice messing with it. I just don't like how the louvered cover is on it, really limits what you can do. I put a new carb on mine when I rebuilt it, so yes, it has all 3 screws with no limiters to prevent you from turning them.

 

[larryms290]

Has anybody tried the Stihl 3/8" .050" PM (Picco) B/C on this saw? I bet it would cut a LOT better than the .325/.063" that normally comes with it. It would also make it lighter too!

That's what I'm trying to find out, I think it would keep the RPMs up better and make the clutch engage better. This saw really sux keeping the clutch engaged when you're use to running a bigger saw.

 

[Agent Orange]

16" B&C makes a world of difference on these. I'm still running the. 325 63 and it works like a champ, plenty of oil and speed/power like it should. The 18" B&C is to much for the little bastard.

 

[larryms290]

16" B&C makes a world of difference on these. I'm still running the. 325 63 and it works like a champ, plenty of oil and speed/power like it should. The 18" B&C is to much for the little bastard.

Not sure what chain you're running or what saw you are the most use to running, I may be sorry but just to try something different I ordered a Oregon Prolite 16" bar for 91VXL chain & Sprocket to go with it. I have a roll of the 30LP from Bailey's I'm gonna try. Can't wait to get it on there and murder some Mesquite. I have a MS290,CS-590 & a project that will be a MS-390 so this is my little trimming toy.

 

[CoreyB]

I really like the 3/8 lp stihl chains. And if you are in clean wood and know how to sharpen I would suggest the PS 3/8 lp with a 16" bar. It might feel like a new saw.

 

[CoreyB]

Missed your reply the 91vxl will be good as well on a 16" I think you will like it

 

[Agent Orange]

Not sure what chain you're running or what saw you are the most use to running, I may be sorry but just to try something different I ordered a Oregon Prolite 16" bar for 91VXL chain & Sprocket to go with it. I have a roll of the 30LP from Bailey's I'm gonna try. Can't wait to get it on there and murder some Mesquite. I have a MS290,CS-590 & a project that will be a MS-390 so this is my little trimming toy.

RM and RM3 on the 250, 16" .325 63. The 362 Wears RS and RS3, 20" 3/8" 63

 

[larryms290]

RM and RM3 on the 250, 16" .325 63. The 362 Wears RS and RS3, 20" 3/8" 63

I guess the RM is ok, I always make sure to get the RS if I buy Stihl.

 

[Agent Orange]

I guess the RM is ok, I always make sure to get the RS if I buy Stihl.

Came with the saw, I'll use it till it's gone.

 

[larryms290]

Came with the saw, I'll use it till it's gone.

Yes, me too, still have 2 pieces of it from 2 different saws, seem to cut pretty good actually, I just wouldn't buy it off the shelf on purpose. I build my own now so...it's Oregon,Carlton, or Woodland Pro. for me. Less than half the price for real comparable chain.

 

[BigMoneyGrip]

I used a flat screwdriver on the louvers. You can open them up a bit to help with the exhaust output. Then tune the H screw to compensate.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If your saw has the walbro with the one adjustment screw it would help to get one with the H and L screws. I've used Zama carbs on this saw with good results.

 

[SteveSr]

I guess the RM is ok, I always make sure to get the RS if I buy Stihl.

What was that ancient Chinese curse... "be careful what you wish for". Both chain types have their purposes. RS is aggressive but dulls quickly especially in dirty wood due to the single sharp point on the cutter. IMO RS doesn't bore cut as well as RM due to the aggressive nature of the cutter. Stihl shops like to sell RS as it wears out faster and requires more sharpening than RM.

RM, on the other hand, with it's rounded cutter stays sharp much better especially in wood and conditions that aren't really clean. RM also bore cuts quite well. I do a lot of trail construction and maintenance with volunteers and use RM and PM (Picco version) whenever possible. If we have any RS that came with a used saw it gets replaced with RM when it is worn out.

 

[C Dixon]

Here it goes. How old is the saw . If it is only 2 tank fulls in it ain't broke in. If it is 5 in it ain't broke in. These saws have 2 piston rings. It can take up to 10 tanks before the rings are fully seated and to build the full 3 Breaking Horsepowers it is capable of. Mine is on tank 5 and has cut 8 short bed loads of blow down Loctus 5 to 10 years old. Limbs to 24" off the root ball. If you have a new one as I do don't run it like a wimp. Run it balls to the wall wide open to break it in. Let it build its full potential. I'm running a .063 18" Rollmatic E bar alternating between the RM3 that came on it and a Rapid Super .325 full complement it get better each time I've used it. No modified muffler etc. That will come later after warranty expires. The only thing at this time I'd consider is keeping mine .325 and adding a floating rim sprocket system. You have a really good saw.

 

[Khntr85]

Ya I agree with you Cdixon.... I had to use the 250 for a year or more strictly by itself, and i never, ever had one problem running a 18 inch .325 RM chain.... And all I put my saws In Is hard wood in central Indiana.... I have pictures on this site were I many times cut a full size f250 truck bed load with just one damn tank of gas, and do it every weekend.... All I can say is what more can you ask from a saw.... My 250 is about 4 years old, only changed filters, and chains!!!!!!