MS260 Pro

[rmcfall]

Hello. Really like this site, and particularly this forum.

I recently purchased a new 260 Pro saw and have really enjoyed the saw. I use the saw for firewood--cutting wood ranging from 8" in diameter up to 36" in diameter. I have been using a 16" bar and the recommended .325" RM2 chains. The other day, however, I came across a person who insisted that the Windsor chains are much better than the Stihl chains.

Being new to all this, I am curious what chain folks recommend for use with the 260 Pro?

Also, any tips or suggestions regarding this saw?

Thanks.
RM

 

[glens]

Congratulations on the saw and it's use.  It's probably pushing it just a bit in terms of productivity on that 36" stuff, but it's good to hear about it anyway.

Get some Stihl RS chain, you'll be ecstatic with it.  The .325 is fine.  Did it come with a 7 or 8 tooth rim sprocket?  If 7, pick up an 8 and try it just to see - it'll only cost a couple of bucks and you may like it.

Don't throw the RM2 chain away, but rather turn it into a pseudo-RM by nipping the tail from the bumper tie strap as depicted in my attached stick-figure-type sketch.  Next time you have it off and have a few minutes, take and nick the strap with the corner of a file a time or two as shown by the red line, then grab the tit with some pliers and snap it off sideways.  The chain will still weigh too much, but at least it will bore and cut through the tip.  Unless the chain has already been sharpened several times and or you hunt moles or fossils with it on a regular basis, you will recover all your time.

I'll leave the muffler modifications and carb-swapping for others to cover.

Glen

 

[rmcfall]

Thanks for the feedback, Glen.

I'll have to check and see whether the sprocket is 7 or 8 tooth. What is the advantage of an 8 tooth over 7?

So by nipping the tail from the bumper tie strap the chain will be able to bore and cut through the tip? So this tie strap is what allows the RM2 chain to have lesser kickback tendencies? Assuming I am on the right track here....how much increased kickback exists with the RS chain?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. I am new to all this...
Rob

 

[glens]

.325×7 vs. .325×8 is about like 6th vs. 10th gear on your ten-speed bike (remember when they only had so few "gears"?).  At 8,000 RPM it's about 35 vs. 40 MPH chain speed.  If the saw is capable of pulling it that fast in the wood you're cutting, it'll cut that much faster, all else being equal.  It might not be quite enough saw for that for you, but if you're inquisitive at all, the 3 or 4 bucks might be cheap entertainment.  If you've got an 8t, then get a 7t to try as it'll give the saw more grunt and maybe you'll like that better.

One thing I forgot to mention is to get a file guide you're comfortable with (the stamped steel ones work well enough), and a depth gauge setting tool (I like the Oregon drop-center model).  A sharp chain is safer and faster and easier on the saw.  If the chain dulls in the field, you'll save more than the time it takes to touch it up then and there, and you'll be safer.

If you're very new to cutting, you probably won't do much boring, but I know you've already had to swing the tip through the log without it protruding.  The RM2 tie strap makes that nearly as impossible as the nose guard Echo puts on their saws.

Will it tend to kick back more without the strap tips?  I'm sure it will a little, but not as much as you might think.  The tie straps don't prevent it outright.

The RS chain is much more aggressive (and about 15% faster) than the RM, but I don't think it has much more tendency to produce kickback.  One thing you'll notice about it is where with RM the chain will dance a bit side-to-side while starting a limb cut in something like hickory, but the RS will get right to work.  Much safer in my opinion.

They are not dumb questions at all.

You might want to investigate the good stuff at http://www.madsens1.com/sub4.htm.  Some people fairly question some of the information, but it's pretty good overall; and I think we've all picked up at least one new thing there.

It rehashes much of what's in the saw manual, but it does cover some of the more esoteric stuff the manual doesn't, so I'd recommend fetching a copy of http://www.osh.dol.govt.nz/order/catalogue/pdf/treefell.pdf to study.

That's an extremely fine saw model you've got.  What made you decide on it?

Glen

 

[rmcfall]

Glen-

Thanks again for the info about the sprocket--makes perfect sense. I'll have to play around with it a bit and see what I come up with.

I've been told that RM chains will stay sharper long than RS chains, and also that RM chains do better in dirty wood. I don't plan on cutting into dirty wood, but would you agree with this?

There are a few reasons why I picked out the MS260. Initially, I was looking at the 290 (Good price). For about a $100 more I could get the 260, which seemed like a no brainer since I had heard such great things about the 260(pro grade, etc.). Also, being about 3 pounds lighter than the 290 was a real selling point. I also looked at Husky saws, but the dealer I went to couldn't give me much concrete information about the saws. Instead, I got a pitch about how Huskys are the best, etc. etc... fastest saws on the market... This may be the case--I don't know-- but, I wanted concrete information not a sales pitch. Thus, the Stihl dealer, whom seemed very knowledgeable, got my business.

Thanks a lot for those links. I'll have to check them out. Can you recommend an affordable ($300 or less) grinder for chain sharpening?

Thanks a lot.
Rob

 

[rmcfall]

By the way, the adjustable oil pump on my 260 doesn't seem to have any set points--I can turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise forever. I asked the dealer about this, and they said it should only turn about 3/8 inch, and that they would take care of it. However, they also said I really never need to adjust the oiler. Then what's the point in the adjustable oiler? Seems like in some situations it would be real useful.

 

[bass_on_tap]

rmcfall, your dealer is correct about the oiler adjustment screw turning a small amount and it can be broken if forced beyond the stops. Have them repair the oiler under warranty. As far as why there is an adjustment, different conditions may require more or less oil to the bar. Others will have to reply with what those conditions are as I'm am short on time. Dave

 

[jokers]

Grinders

Hi Rob, Jeff Sikkema has two excellent models of grinder for under $300. I`ll attach a link for you to check them out. Russ S&S Sawshop

 

[bass_on_tap]

How would the MAXX and the Tecomec compare to say the Oregon 511a? Thanks Dave

 

[jokers]

Hi Dave, from what I understand, the Tecomec 136 is the same grinder as the Oregon 511A. These are excellent quality grinders for the price although I don`t like the characteristics of the Mini Jolly. I have not used the Maxx grinder but a few of the other regulars( Tony Snyder, JimL )here have them and have reported favorably on them. I should have mentioned in my prior post that I was referring to the Maxx and the Tecomec 136 at Jeff`s site. I don`t like the fact that the more expensive Tecomec that he offers with hydraulic clamping does not allow the operator to tilt the chain vise 10° for the proper sharpening of round chisel chain. There has been plenty written about chain grinding here if you do a search. Having a grinder does not automatically make someone proficient but don`t be discouraged. Russ

 

[jokers]

Almost forgot to mention....

The way that the vise assembly rotates on the Maxx grinder is supposed to eliminate a problem common to the 511A type grinder, uneven cutter length from side to side which leads to assymetry when ground. It`s easy enough to get a near perfect grind if you understand that you need to make adjustments side to side with many grinders but the Maxx is reputed to be more set and forget. If I didn`t already have two 511As, an Efco, a Windsor, a Foley 394, two Silvey 510s and a Silvey 300 I would buy one of the Maxxes from Jeff. Since I mostly hand file my own chains I may already be slightly over equiped without even mentioning my square grinders. Russ

 

[glens]

Rob

It's my opinion that RM chains do hold their edge a bit longer than RS when used in sub-optimal circumstances.  Once the corner is gone on the RS you'd just as well pack it up until you get the corner re-established.  Since the RM really doesn't have a corner anyway it's a bit more forgiving.  But that corner is what makes the RS (style of cutter) so much nicer.

It's my understanding that a square ground square corner chain will out-cut the round ground square corner (RS style) by as much as the RS does the RM, but you're not going to field-file a square cut chain without investing some time in the process first.  Some of the more regulars than me here have taken that up and searching the forum for mention of that might prove interesting.

If you're going to use RM chain anyway, I recommend getting actual RM and not RM2.&nbsp; I keep a loop of RM on the truck for each size bar I'm carrying, not counting my RM<s>2</s> which I keep handy for the particularly nasty stuff.

I'm surprised nobody's told you yet to open up the muffler and swap the fixed-jet carb for an older style adjustable one.

You've probably already seen it, but I've included some re-formatted and re-figured data in http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8852 recently.&nbsp; There are pertinent links within it for the background information.&nbsp; Certainly food for thought.

Those were very good reasons you gave for choosing the saw.&nbsp; Very good indeed.&nbsp; Congratulations.

Glen

 

[Fish]

Glen is the "Master" when it comes to dumb questions, he is a
"Hoosier" after all.

 

[glens]

A Hoosier by choice.

 

[rmcfall]

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone.

So it sounds like the Maxx grinder is preferred over the Tecomec... Anyone know the address for the homepage of the maker of the Maxx grinder?

Glen- you are absolutely right about the RS chain. I got some the other day, and there is a world of difference.

Thanks for the info about the muffler mods. Guess I should probably wait until my 1 year warranty is up before I make any mods. What is this about the carb? Is the "intellicarb" holding me back?

Rob

 

[Fish]

I wish to humbly apologize to Glen for my last remark, it was
totally uncalled for! In fact, I don't even remember making it.

From this day on, I will be a kinder, gentler, Fish.
My wife made me go to church today, so I am trying to reform.

rmcfall, where in Ky. are you? What dealer did you get the saw
from?

 

[rmcfall]

Sounds like the gains from modifying the muffler are quite substantial. Very temtping.

Fish- We live in Lexington. The dealer is Wilson Brother's Rentals...nice people.