My MS660 project, some questions

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ryans4022

ryans4022

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Hello all, I purchased an ms660 from a pawn shop the other day. It will not stay running, only will fire one time when cold and not choked. When starting using the typical cold starting procedure a few pulls and its flooded and gas is coming out the muffler. 150 lbs compression.It has fire but it doesnt look too strong. The body of the saw isnt in bad shape and it doesnt look abused. Where would you guys start with this saw?? Thanks!!

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Nice looking saw, wish I could find some of those locally.

I'd second the carb cleaning/start at 1 turn out suggestion and replace the plug if you havn't already done so. Also check the tank vent, just try it pulled off with the filter out.

It sounds like either a stuck needle open or a bad needle. You'll need a carb kit if the needle rubber tip isn't good. Also check to make sure the adjust screw o-rings are in good shape. My 044 adjustment o-rings were shot and I had to get some from my dealer, they should carry those in stock.
 
blsnelling said:
Pull the carb apart and clean it. Remove the limitng tabs on the caps and reinstall the caps. Sey both screws to 1 turn out and fine tune from there.
Click to expand...

If its flooding,,, while you have the carb apart check the metering diaphram,,

if its supple and flexible then its ok,, if it is stiff and crackles when you flex it,, change it,,, you can buy a kit for about 12 bucks and just install the kit,,

while you have the carb apart and the limiter caps removed gently bottom out the L & H screws and back then out and set aside taking care not to mix them up,,,,, use some good carb cleaner w/nozzle and flush through where the screws were and you should get good flow,,,,, do NOT blast the passages with compressed air,,,,, it can ruin the carb,,,, change the fuel inlet screen, install the new needle valve and metering lever/spring (some of the walbro kits dont have a new spring so you may have to ask for one,,,,,) set the fuel inlet lever heigth put the new metering diaphram and fuel pump diaphram on and the gaskets ,,, pay attention to the order of the gaskets vs metering diaphram in relation to the carb body/covers when you take it apart,,,, :givebeer:

its a piece of cake!!!!!! :dizzy::dizzy::clap:
 
Last edited:
Well glad to hear i didnt get ripped off. I was in the process of researching what they were worth used when this saw came along. I wasnt sure,But i had a feeling it was an ok saw just needing a little TLC.
 
Yeah, it's a good deal. Seems parts 660s on ebay can run up as high as $450, running ones from $450-$850 depending on condition. By the looks of the handle/tank assembly/case that looks to be a very low hour saw and should be in very good condition. Thinks like the partial sticker on the front of the case and minimal color staining on the tank shows it's age is very new like. Running, I'd bet the saw would sell on ebay for 600-700 bucks as a guess.

Just make sure you don't run it lean after you straighten out the flooding problem.
 
Last edited:
Might be best to remove the muffler first and inspect. Carb work wont help a wiped out P/C. Do yourself a favor and put the compression tester away. Close the useless on a two stoke with that displacement. (IMO).
 
Thanks for all the input guys, pulled carb and muffler; P&C look like new. I blew as much dirt out as i could from the saw, wiped off the carb, pulled the limiters trimmed and replaced and reassembled the saw and................FIRST PULL it fired right up and runs very well. Havent put it in any wood yet so we'll see but for right now im very happy. And im not sure about the schrader valve on my comp tester, It has an air release and the guage hooks up with an air compressor-like fitting to the hose. Thanks again though, i apprecieate all the help.
 
ryans4022 said:
Thanks for all the input guys, pulled carb and muffler; P&C look like new. I blew as much dirt out as i could from the saw, wiped off the carb, pulled the limiters trimmed and replaced and reassembled the saw and................FIRST PULL it fired right up and runs very well. Havent put it in any wood yet so we'll see but for right now im very happy. And im not sure about the schrader valve on my comp tester, It has an air release and the guage hooks up with an air compressor-like fitting to the hose. Thanks again though, i apprecieate all the help.
Click to expand...


I guess this means you wont be letting me have it to get your money back ehhh???? :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
RiverRat2 said:
If its flooding,,, while you have the carb apart check the metering diaphram,,

if its supple and flexible then its ok,, if it is stiff and crackles when you flex it,, change it,,, you can buy a kit for about 12 bucks and just install the kit,,

while you have the carb apart and the limiter caps removed gently bottom out the L & H screws and back then out and set aside taking care not to mix them up,,,,, use some good carb cleaner w/nozzle and flush through where the screws were and you should get good flow,,,,, do NOT blast the passages with compressed air,,,,, it can ruin the carb,,,, change the fuel inlet screen, install the new needle valve and metering lever/spring (some of the walbro kits dont have a new spring so you may have to ask for one,,,,,) set the fuel inlet lever heigth put the new metering diaphram and fuel pump diaphram on and the gaskets ,,, pay attention to the order of the gaskets vs metering diaphram in relation to the carb body/covers when you take it apart,,,, :givebeer:

its a piece of cake!!!!!! :dizzy::dizzy::clap:
Click to expand...

I've never heard this before, what gets ruined when you blow out the passages?
 
gink595 said:
I've never heard this before, what gets ruined when you blow out the passages?
Click to expand...


there are some internal check valves that if too much air pressure hits them,, they quit working (Leak by) and then the carb ceases to function properly,,,,

It can ruin them,,,, doesnt always but has happened before,, Too much air and pressure,,,
smacks them around

Ask Lakeside53,,, LOLOL he'll tell you all about it,,,,,
 
Last edited:
I can vouch for that. It didn't take much to blow the check valve on my 361 Walbro.

By the way, $400 is a great deal for that saw. You can see the date of manufacture on the white sticker on the handle if you're curious of its age.
 

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