Need help with 044 bearing install position

[conventional_wolverine]

Hello everyone,

I'm helping a friend out with putting a new crank and bearings on a 044. First time for both of us. We split the case and got everything out. Now we're putting it back together. We are doing bearings first and then the crank. Tried the heat gun method and it wasn't working how we wanted it to (not dropping in very well and would've needed a lot of hammering). So we put the case half in the oven at 275°F and attempted that way. Seems to have had better luck but I wanted to check with you all on the final position of the bearing on the flywheel side. See attached photos. I'm wondering if it need to be flush with the case in the race. There are three tabs in the race area that are maybe 1/32" and I think those are what's preventing the bearing from being flush. Let me know your thoughts.

Additionally, as seen in the last pic, the race has some scratches/gouges. Think that's enough to cause a leak? Probably is. And if it is, should we look into getting a "new" case or can we polish that race a little bit?

Thanks all.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hey, no, that doesn’t look right with the protruding outer race facing in. That bearing needs the cage to be on the inside too. I’d suggest that that bearing is a pto side bearing and needs to be flipped around.

For future reference, you need at least 185c to install bearings in most saws for them to drop in.

 

[L34]

Is that a pto side bearing in the fw side case?

 

[stihltech]

Put the bearings on the crank first. Heat the flywheel side case to 185 degrees F. Keep the crank and bearings cold (room temp). The bearing will almost fall into the case.
The clutch side will use the same procedure. Have the case locating pins and gasket installed.
Use some long screws with heads removed for guides screwed into the flywheel side case. Have the case screws and oil pump and screws ready. Also install the flywheel nut on the crankshaft flush with the end of the crank. A center punch with the point elongated is required.
Heat clutch side case and slide on to crank. Install case screws and tighten evenly to draw bearing into case. When fully tightened, install oil pump (The output hose need not be installed). Note: the oil pump is the depth limiter for the crank bearing.Use the elongated point punch and a hammer to give a couple solid taps to the center hole in both ends of the crank. The crank should spin freely and bearings will be properly seated.

 

[L34]

Update???

 

[conventional_wolverine]

Update???

Sorry for the late reply, we had to put the saw down for a bit (I had the wrong bearings and had to wait for new ones to come). We're getting after it again tomorrow and I'll post an update!

 

[conventional_wolverine]

@L34 Quick update… didn’t make it as far as we wanted. But I’ve attached a photo of the bearing position now. It’s the PTO side and it is protruding out (towards oil pump). I’m almost certain this is the correct position judging from the 044 ILP and the fact that it really can’t be in any other position.

I’m using Matt Olson’s crankcase tool for the rest of the job so hopefully it goes smoothly.

 

[Roygor]

You need to install the oiler, that is the bearing stop and the correct install distance.

 

[conventional_wolverine]

@Roygor Yup, I gotcha. Done. Thanks!