Need Help with owb

[hawleybk]

I have a heiss heater dont know if anyone knows about them, with there set up theres a storage tank seperate but any way its a open system i ran into a problem, the heat exchanger in my garage where the return line comes in and dumps in the barrel it sounds like in the heat exchanger the water is dripping but where it goes into the barrle i got a pretty good flow, so i added a air float in the line at the highest point b4 the heat exchanger figuring that there was air in the line and that didnt help when i crack it it makes it wrose does any one have any ideas why the heat exchanger is making the noise like water is dripping? do i need to install a check valve

 

[hawleybk]

And this problem just started b4 that the water was 180deg now its hard to get any heat off of it the blower runs alot ii also thought there was a plug somewhere so i back flused the lines to

 

[Sawmill]

Did you try bleeding the air out of you heat exchanger?

 

[hawleybk]

yea i just dont know how air would get in there anyway where is dumps in the barrel the heat exchanger is up 2 foot or so and its a open system i checked the gpm out of the heat exchanger and its all right to what the pump says its suspose to be pumping i have the 1/8 hp pump bye taco and thats what heiss heaters says im suspose to have, it all started around when i added a 1ft pice of 1in copper in the pex line to put a strap on aqua stat because i didnt like the digital prope one they gave me it worked fine for a couple of day i set it at 160deg and it stayed at 160 in the barrel now the blower is on for 5-6 hours at a time and theres over a ft of hot hot coals in the botom of the boiler heiss heaters said theres air in the line or pump ant pumping the right gpm the heater has over 100ft of 1in copper lines that run through the concrete and its 50feet away from the house any ideas i know this thing works ive had the water up to 180deg

 

[hawleybk]

i can post pics maybe some one can see if i have it hooked up wrong ?

 

[hawleybk]

View attachment 205473

 

[hawleybk]

View attachment 205474View attachment 205475

 

[hawleybk]

View attachment 205476

 

[Fifelaker]

Close the valve on the output side of the pump for 2 seconds quickly 3-4 times the see if your noise is still there.

 

[hawleybk]

yea i tryed that to and i still hear it , i took it apart blew air through it and hooked it back up and still hear it theres ar some where right? it takes to long to heat up

 

[Sawmill]

Do you have a heat exchanger that forced air blows thru or is all you haave the in floor heat? If you have a heat exchanger i almost bet there is air trapped in it. I had the same problem and had to use a water hose under pressure to get the air bubbles out of the heat exchanger.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

yea i just dont know how air would get in there anyway where is dumps in the barrel the heat exchanger is up 2 foot or so and its a open system i checked the gpm out of the heat exchanger and its all right to what the pump says its suspose to be pumping i have the 1/8 hp pump bye taco and thats what heiss heaters says im suspose to have, it all started around when i added a 1ft pice of 1in copper in the pex line to put a strap on aqua stat because i didnt like the digital prope one they gave me it worked fine for a couple of day i set it at 160deg and it stayed at 160 in the barrel now the blower is on for 5-6 hours at a time and theres over a ft of hot hot coals in the botom of the boiler heiss heaters said theres air in the line or pump ant pumping the right gpm the heater has over 100ft of 1in copper lines that run through the concrete and its 50feet away from the house any ideas i know this thing works ive had the water up to 180deg

Your dripping sounds are trapped air bubbles or pockets of air, probably in the heat exchanger.

It looks to me like the water goes from the pump to the coils in the floor. Then up to the heat exchanger and down to the barrel. The return line isn't showed. neither are the connections to the OWB. It looks like all your heat is going to the floor first. Can you post pictures of the rest of the connections and describe the direction the water travels ?

If this direction of flow is correct, you are trying to push the air out of the heat exchanger from the top down. Feed it from the other direction to clear it of any trapped air.

Are you getting low on water at the OWB ?

 

[Fifelaker]

In pic 5 that hi point vent does not look like it in the hi point.

 

[Fifelaker]

The more I look I don't think there is floor heat those are supply and return lines going thru the floor. If thats the case reverse the lines and move that vent to the top of the coil. I can get the air out most times with valves.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

my last though on this:

If the heat exchanger is above the level of the water in the OWB opening up the air bleed is letting air into the system instead of out of it. Try lowering the heat exchanger to the floor letting the air out and then put it back in it's original location.

 

[hawleybk]

From the barrel it pumps to the owb where there is over 100ft of copper in the wood boiler from the wood boiler is goes to my heat exchanger in my furnace in the crawl space and then from there is goes to the heat exchanger that is in the pics (garage) so i have air in the furnace heat exchanger? or the one in the garage , is this why it isnt getting over 160deg and the blower stays on for ever

 

[hawleybk]

View attachment 205588View attachment 205589

 

[Biker Dude]

Ok, the supply goes from the boiler to the furnace HX then to the garage HX then to the barrel and then returns to the boiler, right? If the water is 180 at the boiler and 160 at the garage HX that means you are dropping 20 degrees across the furnace HX which would seem to mean that you need to speed up the flow to reduce the temperature drop. I don't understand what the barrel is for though. Regardless, if your garage HX is higher than the water level in the boiler then you have to lower the garage HX before bleeding the air out just like KsWoodsMan said. Telling me what purpose the barrel serves would also be helpful.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Ok, the supply goes from the boiler to the furnace HX then to the garage HX then to the barrel and then returns to the boiler, right? If the water is 180 at the boiler and 160 at the garage HX that means you are dropping 20 degrees across the furnace HX which would seem to mean that you need to speed up the flow to reduce the temperature drop. I don't understand what the barrel is for though. Regardless, if your garage HX is higher than the water level in the boiler then you have to lower the garage HX before bleeding the air out just like KsWoodsMan said. Telling me what purpose the barrel serves would also be helpful.

$0.02

What size Taco circ. is that? Is it large enough to move the amount of water you need....I have explained pump sizing in other threads, how to do it properly.
If the Modine heater is above the water level of the OWB, you could have drainback issues....do you have check valves in either the supply/return?
That auto air vent should be on the top of the heater at the highest point, not inline where it is, air could still be trapped in that fitting where it goes into the top of the heater, also the schrader valve in the vent can leak air back into the system..

 

[hawleybk]

The barrle is the water jacket for the owb the owb dosnt have a tank it just has over 200 or so feet of 1in copper that runs through the boiler " heissheaters.com ' and no i dont have a check valve do i need one u think? and im going to be putting that air vent higher so it will work right as for my pump i have a taco 1/8th hp pump which thats what was told i should use do i need a bigger pump? or is it just air locked or bad boiler because it was working fine the water will heat up fast and quick i had the water over 180deg so it cant be the pump either way Nov 10th heiss heaters are bringing me a new boiler