New Husqvarna Carb Adjustment Tool Part Number?

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Up A Creek

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Unless I'm mistaken Husky seems to have come out with a new carb needle head size? The splined head on the high/low needles.

I have a Husky 435 I bought new in 19, got several aftermarket tools to adjust the needles. They all fit fine.
I just bought a Husky 330 trimmer. The tools I have are too small for the needle heads. Same splined design, just very slightly larger.
Went into Lowes to confirm; the 330s on the shelf, as well as the 525 trimmers all have larger spline heads.

Checked the chainsaws, the 450s and 445s (or 455s?) also have a larger head.
Interestingly the 120 chainsaws still fit the tool.

Does anyone have a part number or source for these?
 
Is it the bigger splined one like on 585?

One on left compared to the smaller common splined one. I have part number and have one if so. I will need to check on my old website where saved it.

5mm spline tool and 4mm spline tool shown.

h585tt.jpg
 
Yes! That must be it.
A part number would be fantastic.

Is this a newer thing? Or have they had 2 different sizes for a long time?
I'm not an expert by any means, and my stuff is all older flat tip adjustment, but I've done lots of reading and never even come across a hint of this before. I did several searches online about this before I posted too.

And thank you.
 
It's newer.

Mitch came up with just using a pacman on them as it works for such if you couldnt get the oem tool like in pic above.

I think Kevin @huskihl said you can take it out with it and do some mod to top of it to make using even easier. = from our group post he said = Push the pac- man tool on tight enough to spin it out. Then file a flat spot on it until the pac-man or D tool fits it

Pic to show pacman


epaaaaaa.jpg
 
I already have one of those sets, unfortunately none of them fit (I didn't try the different shaped ones, just the splined round ones).
Thank you though.

Redneck, thanks for the part number, that's a huge help.
I tried to find a manual for the 330 but I couldn't. I figured it should have the OE tool listed.

Since this is brand new I don't want to "damage" the needles any, in case I have to bring it in. That's why I'm looking for the specific tool.
I want to see if adjusting the carb will fix it or if it's another issue. If it is I'm just going to return it. I don't want a brand new tool that's not running right.

With the info given I did some more searching. Seems like the 5mm is 20 spline and the 4mm is 21 spline?
And the 5mm is next to impossible to find, aftermarket (not listed anyways, it's possible one of the many knock offs is of the larger one, but I haven't found one that lists it as such) or even from Europe. There are several places that sell the 4mm.
I sent a few emails out to see if anyone has one.
The knock off places must not realize there's 2 different sizes.
 
I already have one of those sets, unfortunately none of them fit (I didn't try the different shaped ones, just the splined round ones).
Thank you though.

Redneck, thanks for the part number, that's a huge help.
I tried to find a manual for the 330 but I couldn't. I figured it should have the OE tool listed.

Since this is brand new I don't want to "damage" the needles any, in case I have to bring it in. That's why I'm looking for the specific tool.
I want to see if adjusting the carb will fix it or if it's another issue. If it is I'm just going to return it. I don't want a brand new tool that's not running right.

With the info given I did some more searching. Seems like the 5mm is 20 spline and the 4mm is 21 spline?
And the 5mm is next to impossible to find, aftermarket (not listed anyways, it's possible one of the many knock offs is of the larger one, but I haven't found one that lists it as such) or even from Europe. There are several places that sell the 4mm.
I sent a few emails out to see if anyone has one.
The knock off places must not realize there's 2 different sizes.
If you have the Pacman try it.

The OEM tool shops wont sell to ya because they get fined if caught.

Pacman being shown on the 5mm spline of the 585 by Mitch in a thread we had last year.

h585pacman.jpgh585pacmann.jpg
 
If you have the Pacman try it.

The OEM tool shops wont sell to ya because they get fined if caught.


That's also what I was told years ago.


OP: I have a 525L. The standard splined tool fits both it and my other saws (390, 372, 543, etc...)

Are you sure it's not an updated carb, or just updated needles on the newest models? Genuinely interested, as I hate having to have multiple sets of tools for minor differences like this.
 
Make your own tool- soft material metal tubing- copper brass aluminium- just under the OD of the splines.
Drift it onto the head of the adjusting screw with a small hammer and soft blows- propane torch the new tool "head" if needed, should scribe female splines into the interior of the tube or at least give a good friction fit.

Or dremel slot the screw head for a fine blade screwdriver.
 
Used to work on the 4mm before I got all the tools. Like 3 sets now.

But on this one if it is 5mm. If pacman you dont have or wont try. I used to take a bic plastic pen. Heat the end up and slide it over to form fit it. Worked on 4mm maybe will on 5mm too.

He already said he dont want to cut on his H L due to warranty needs.
 
That's also what I was told years ago.


OP: I have a 525L. The standard splined tool fits both it and my other saws (390, 372, 543, etc...)

Are you sure it's not an updated carb, or just updated needles on the newest models? Genuinely interested, as I hate having to have multiple sets of tools for minor differences like this.
Yeah, the EPA doesn't allow them to sell these. I just don't get why they would go to a different size randomly. Unless the EPA is forcing them to change it again?
You can find the 4mm OEM ones in Europe. It's much harder to find the 5mm ones. I'd be fine with an aftermarket one, they don't seem to exist. I've done a lot of searching at this point, for 5mm, and 20 spline, ect. Maybe one is hiding somewhere, I couldn't find it.

The pacman seems to work. It's hard to feel it turn, but the lean is adjusting out. I just want to make sure this is just an adjustment issue and not a carburetor/engine issue quickly, so I can return it if it is.

I bought a new 435 at the dealer back in 19 (trying to avoid Lowes tools; big mistake), the "assembly" guy couldn't get it started. I had to. Should have walked away then. Crap running wouldn't adjust out no matter what I did. They've had it several times, rebuilt it, different bar/chain combo, nothing's worked. I tried to return/exchange it and they wouldn't take it. That's why I went to Lowes this time. I know I can return it if I can't adjust it.

FWIW I've also bought a new 3120 off ebay (can't find them new here), couldn't understand why it seemed weak (even got a carb with an adjustable jet). Finally realized even at full throttle the throttle plate was only half open! Adjusted most of that out and it runs much better.

So sometimes it seems to be simple, other times just a crap engine/carb.

This is the very first I've ran into or seen this myself, that's why I assumed it was pretty new.

Like I said, I checked the stuff at Lowes and it was almost all 5mm (or wouldn't fit 4mm anyways). Maybe just newer versions have them? It's possible the 120s were older stock, or Husky hasn't gotten around to changing those?
I was at the Husky dealer for something else and totally forgot to bring the tools to check their saws. I'll try to bring them next time I go back.

I did finally find a place in Europe, ordered a couple. We'll see if they make it to me.
 
Got the tools in today. Paid $48 for 4 of them shipped. Not too bad. One tip is crooked, I'll probably just deal, I doubt they'll pay for return shipping. They fit perfect over the needles.

I didn't have alot of success with the pacman tool. It was hard to tell how well it was turning the needle.
As I ran the trimmer it seemed to run progressively worse. I'm guessing there's a vaccuum leak somewhere, or the carb is junk.
Raining like a bastard today so I couldn't try the right tool. I'll try tomorrow.
The sidewalls are VERY thin, possible some of those aftermarket tools won't fit in the hole.

I should have gotten a picture of the tips too (just the tip, I promise!)

Also pictures of the access ports for this. It's pretty tight (maybe why I have a hard time forcing the tip in? :D )
 

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Got the tools in today. Paid $48 for 4 of them shipped. Not too bad. One tip is crooked, I'll probably just deal, I doubt they'll pay for return shipping. They fit perfect over the needles.

I didn't have alot of success with the pacman tool. It was hard to tell how well it was turning the needle.
As I ran the trimmer it seemed to run progressively worse. I'm guessing there's a vaccuum leak somewhere, or the carb is junk.
Raining like a bastard today so I couldn't try the right tool. I'll try tomorrow.
The sidewalls are VERY thin, possible some of those aftermarket tools won't fit in the hole.

I should have gotten a picture of the tips too (just the tip, I promise!)

Also pictures of the access ports for this. It's pretty tight (maybe why I have a hard time forcing the tip in? :D )
Just use the the tool to unscrew the HI/LOW jet needles all the way out , take carb limiter caps off , then reinstall you can just use a regular tuning screwdriver to tune ,
 
Just use the the tool to unscrew the HI/LOW jet needles all the way out , take carb limiter caps off , then reinstall you can just use a regular tuning screwdriver to tune ,
I may be wrong, but I don't think these have caps.
If they do they're not like the older red ones that pull off.

And there's no limiter that I can see (haven't torn it apart because warranty).

It seems to be a needle with a splined end. The end seems to be metal.
And honestly as long as it's not a limiter I prefer it this way. The end gives you positive engagement, which is easier to "grab" when the engine is running and hopping around. Sometimes it's hard to get the flat tip in the slot. This naturally slides right over.
 
I may be wrong, but I don't think these have caps.
If they do they're not like the older red ones that pull off.

And there's no limiter that I can see (haven't torn it apart because warranty).

It seems to be a needle with a splined end. The end seems to be metal.
And honestly as long as it's not a limiter I prefer it this way. The end gives you positive engagement, which is easier to "grab" when the engine is running and hopping around. Sometimes it's hard to get the flat tip in the slot. This naturally slides right over.
My 435T had silver limiter caps , just removed them as I had specified ,
 
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