New to me Jonsered 510sp questions

[kd460]

Hello, first post. Lurking for awhile. Lots of good info.

I have read lots of positive praise for the Jonsereds, so when I came across this saw (510sp), I bought it. $75 bucks, including a 20 inch bar (installed) and an extra 18 inch bar (I just found out 20 inch is to long?). Has good compression, runs nice, cuts and oils well, switch was not working, and previous owner used choke to shut it off. Switch is fixed, I removed all covers and cleaned everything up, adjusted carb, replaced plug, etc. I feel I got a good deal and am happy with the saw. The chain brake and hand guard mechanism is completely removed along with all of the brake parts.

Some basic questions if I may:

Sure would like some type of a hand guard. Not to concerned about the brake mechanism not working, but a hand guard would be nice. Any ideas?

The saw will leak a little gas out of the bronze vent element when the saw is turned to adjust chain. Strange as the vent is pointed up when I am doing this. Is this normal?

Speaking of leaks, there is a small pin hole (I assume vent), just above the oil fill plug. When the saw is turned (to adjust chain), it leaks oil out of this hole, it does not leak when the saw sits in its normal position. My parts diagram shows some type of a pin that goes in their (sorry hard to see as picture is not clear). It almost looks like a small cotter pin. Can anyone give info about this?

Need new rubber AV mounts, and I have contacted George Blake about those and some other parts, as I may want to rebuild this saw at a later date. Are new cylinders and pistons, bearings, still available?

What bar and chain combo should I run? I want to go back to the 18" bar, just curious what others suggest. Mostly used for a firewood saw, so I feel the 18" bar will be fine (I also have a little 14" saw for the small stuff).

The whole interchangeable rim sprocket thing is new to me, so any info there would be greatly appreciated (or a link that explains it), the previous owner gave me a few different ones.

Any known problems with this saw that i should be aware of? Anyone with a "history" or experience with this saw that can give me a few tips, heads ups, and oh by the ways?

I like the saw, it is amazingly light for the power it puts out. Just want to get it up to snuff before I start using it. Thanks for looking, KD

 

[HiOctane]

You should try to repair brake ,its much safer than just a guard.The fuel leak by the brass plug is "normal" due to pressure buildup in the tank.Add a part of foam or another brass thing inside the vent tube close to the fuel tank outlet to keep the gas from leaking too much.The original setup with brass allow too much gas to leak.A cotter pin goes in the hole over the oil cap,dont put it too tight in the hole to avoid problem with oil pump.You should run with a .325 x 7 th rim.You replace only the rim when there is deep marks between "teeth"on the rim.No particular problem on this model,except the handle are too"soft" caused by soft shocks.Oh,the oil pump is a pain in the a$$ to repair,you have to lift the cylinder.

 

[kd460]

"A cotter pin goes in the hole over the oil cap,dont put it too tight in the hole to avoid problem with oil pump."

Ok, so just get a small cotter pin and push it in? Seems like it would fall out with use. Is the cotter pin supposed to prevent oil from leaking (like it is now) or is it used when storing only, then removed for use? Seems kind of a strange design/purpose.

I am trying to locate the parts for the brake mechanism, any one have a source? Looking for the rubber anti-vibe mounts as well.

Thanks for the reply, KD

 

[HiOctane]

"A cotter pin goes in the hole over the oil cap,dont put it too tight in the hole to avoid problem with oil pump."

Ok, so just get a small cotter pin and push it in? Seems like it would fall out with use. Is the cotter pin supposed to prevent oil from leaking (like it is now) or is it used when storing only, then removed for use? Seems kind of a strange design/purpose.

Ya,its a strange design.The cotter pin must bea bit loose in the hole to let air in.Just insert a pin and bend the end and leave it there.

 

[tony marks]

u mite think about looking at the 510 ive got on ebay rite now.it dont cut strong but to be honest i dont even have the rite chain on it . it came with a low pro ,and should have standard 3/8. looks like it mite go pretty cheap. if not
ill just put a little more money in the chain and use it as back up.
i just mentioned it cause u mite have the pts to make and keep your old saw running a while if u got it..item num. 7754056534

 

[tony marks]

dont know whos bidding on my saw or if they are on here . but i made a standard 3/8 chain for it last nite . with a little work on the chain it mite have more potential than i thought. still not as good as my 026 tho.
i actually got on ebay to pull the saw as at that time there were no bids . but
somebody had already bid, so i guess its leavin here. no matter ,i dont use my saws that much anymore anyway.yall have a good day.

 

[SawTroll]

Have you considered trying a 95VP setup on that saw ?

 

[DougMN]

My sp510 does not have a chain brake , I bought it new.

 

[E.V.A. Sawman]

I also bought my 510sp neew it was 79' I think, it does not havea chain brake, just a plastic hand guard. Check the case bolts some tend to loosen up. Other wise a good saw, mine has a lot of time on it. Never been apart for repair. You are correct that they are quite light for the power they make. Good luck with yours!

 

[The Dane]

I was offered the 510sp not long ago for a resonable price, but was told that the model has some carb probs. So i turned it down. Think it had a 15" bar. Maybe i shouldn't have. Does anyone have the specs for it?
Can always find some use for another saw:greenchainsaw:

 

[DougMN]

No more carb problems than any other saw.

 

[David Y.]

I got a neighbor's 510sp running last fall. It just needed a little carb cleaning and some decent fuel. When I got done getting it running I used it to trim some trees. I liked the cutting performance to weight ratio on it, and thought I would like one. I saw one on CL a month or two later, but before I went I did a search here. The general impression I got was that they are a great little saw that doesn't hold up very well and are very hard to fix. I'm open to being corrected if that's not true.

 

[flyingtim01]

My father's held up for 20 years or so...and I wouldn't say its any harder to work on than any other semi-pro saw of that size. I think the biggest gripe is the 'soft' rear handle. Great for anti-vibes, but doesn't give the greatest feel. The handle on your 520 probably feels a lot more solid. Real light, good power with a 16"/.325 setup on it. One of these days I'd like to have a reason to try out an NK setup on mine.

Careful about what you read on the boards...sometimes it seems like unless you run an 088 with a full wrap and a 36" bar on it, you're still just playing around in the sandbox

 

[The Dane]

Careful about what you read on the boards...sometimes it seems like unless you run an 088 with a full wrap and a 36" bar on it, you're still just playing around in the sandbox