New to the business, what kind of rigging equipment?

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rjstamey

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I am just now getting into the business and learning to climb. I am working on buying gear as I make money.
I am looking at some rigging gear for lowering branches and possibly rigging down the tree trunks once I gain the experience.
Which rigging equipment should I go with to start with? I've been looking at the x-rigging rings, and they seem to be very useful.
Should I go with a block instead of an x-rigging ring ? Any recommendations on a complete setup of rigging gear I should start with that cost under $500?
 
Do you plan to do more pruning or more removals? How big are you willing to go? We do very few removals... Most of what gets rigged is it branch weighing less than 150 lb that we just can't hit the roof with. Therefore a lot of our ringing it's done with a smaller rope and carabiners. Much more enjoyable to use than a heavy block & 5/8" rope...but we have those too because sometimes that is what is needed and the lightweight stuff isn't an option.

Whether you are doing pruning or removal, I suggest you start small and grow from there. That is both a financial thing and a skill development thing. That means you do not need to start with your drinking gear if you're willing to turn down trees that require it for your initial work. With that in mind I would start with a 1/2" rope few loop slings (personal preference... I girth these around each piece I'm lowering what others prefer to tie off each piece with a knot...), a few carabiners, Porta wrap on and ultrasling, and RE Omni-block 1.5. I've probably already spent your $500....
 
Do you plan to do more pruning or more removals? How big are you willing to go? We do very few removals... Most of what gets rigged is it branch weighing less than 150 lb that we just can't hit the roof with. Therefore a lot of our ringing it's done with a smaller rope and carabiners. Much more enjoyable to use than a heavy block & 5/8" rope...but we have those too because sometimes that is what is needed and the lightweight stuff isn't an option.

Whether you are doing pruning or removal, I suggest you start small and grow from there. That is both a financial thing and a skill development thing. That means you do not need to start with your drinking gear if you're willing to turn down trees that require it for your initial work. With that in mind I would start with a 1/2" rope few loop slings (personal preference... I girth these around each piece I'm lowering what others prefer to tie off each piece with a knot...), a few carabiners, Porta wrap on and ultrasling, and RE Omni-block 1.5. I've probably already spent your $500....
I plan on doing mostly removals, and some pruning. My goal is to eventually have a crew that does removals, and for me to get my arborist certification and to only prunings and tree care.
But until then, I need to make money so removals will be the way to go.
I plan to start out very small and move slow. Only doing small trees until I can develop experience.
What would you suggest for friction when rigging? Do you just run your rope through the crotch in the tree without a block or pulley?
 
Wow, I was quoted $1300 per year for a 1 person outfit. Do you mind letting me know who you are using for insurance?
I've been out of the game for a while. I used to just use progressive as I recall. Why are you getting into this business in the first place, especially with no prior experience?
 
I've been out of the game for a while. I used to just use progressive as I recall. Why are you getting into this business in the first place, especially with no prior experience?
This is something i've always wanted to do ever since I use to help my mothers boyfriend with his tree business 15 years ago. I've been doing IT work for the past 10 years and have made a decision that I am done with working at a desk and want to do something I actually enjoy, which is tree work. Its either now or never.
 
This is something i've always wanted to do ever since I use to help my mothers boyfriend with his tree business 15 years ago. I've been doing IT work for the past 10 years and have made a decision that I am done with working at a desk and want to do something I actually enjoy, which is tree work. Its either now or never.
Have you considered going to work for an established company to gain some experience?
 
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What would you suggest for friction when rigging? Do you just run your rope through the crotch in the tree without a block or pulley?
Porta wrap is for friction...I think it is a good combination of cheap, easy to use, and versatile. There are better...but it is a work horse.

Will you have a ground helper?

It is fine to run through the crotch on removals. Unless it is a very small limb we don't do that on pruning because you don't want to damage the bark. It will also shorten the life of your rope...
 
Have you considered going to work for an established company to gain some experience?
That is not an option. Not sure who would pay my bills if I quit my $100k/year job to make $12/hr.
I will learn as I go, I also have a brother who owns his own tree service, and a good friend who owns his own tree service too. They both provide me with good knowledge, but not everything. I am not completely ignorant when it comes to rigging.
I was hoping I could get some advise on what rigging gear to start out with to get the most done. The people I know all use pulley's / blocks. I like the idea of the new school rigging gear such as the X rings, was hoping someone here had advise about using them.
 
It is my understanding that the main difference between a block an the rings is where the friction occurs in the system. Take the Safebloc for example. Using that puts the friction at the rigging point, rather than at the base where portawrap/etc is. Any ring will do the same, but to a lesser extent.
By changing where the friction is, you will change how much weight the rigging point will see. This is very similar to a canopy-tie vs base-tie in SRT.

Some other differences off the top of my head:
  • Blocks are heavier, rings are lighter.
  • Blocks are mid-line attachable, which can be beneficial if you've got to move your rigging point.
  • Rings will wear out sooner than blocks.
  • Blocks are better for redirecting a pull line due to the lower friction, rings can work too though.
 
Any recommendations on a complete setup of rigging gear I should start with that cost under $500?
You can't get a "complete" set of rigging gear for under $500 (unless you're buying used, which is a bad idea). You can get a good 1/2"x150' rigging line, a block, a portawrap and two Tenex slings. This is by no means "complete" but will get you a bare bones start for around $600.
 
I don't think your insurance quote is out of line, especially just starting out.

Yarz gave a nice overview of comparing Xrings and pulleys. You can definitely get the job done with Xrings. I've started to use them a bit but when your coming from the pulley mentality you can get frustrated when you go to move a rigging point. The Xring product offerings are expanding daily but I've struggled at times to keep the rigging point tight to the limb or spar with the sling setup(s) I have or attaching to smaller diameter wood.
Wow, I was quoted $1300 per year for a 1 person outfit. Do you mind letting me know who you are using for insurance?
 
That is not an option. Not sure who would pay my bills if I quit my $100k/year job to make $12/hr.
I will learn as I go, I also have a brother who owns his own tree service, and a good friend who owns his own tree service too. They both provide me with good knowledge, but not everything. I am not completely ignorant when it comes to rigging.
I was hoping I could get some advise on what rigging gear to start out with to get the most done. The people I know all use pulley's / blocks. I like the idea of the new school rigging gear such as the X rings, was hoping someone here had advise about using them.
Save up more money doing IT, do the 12 an hour thing for 6 months. Its a very cheap investment in your safety, future profits and risk mitigation to your business. It beats 0 dollars an hour and med bills up the wazoo (if your wazoo is still functional after the accident)
 
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