Newbie and Stihl 028 Super oil pump and other shenanigans

[Paraord]

Hi Everyone,

Newbie here on ArboristSite from Western NY. Decided to take the dive into a wood burning stove as I had to take down a 3' diameter pignut hickory tree a few weeks ago in order to get ahead of the long horned hickory borer beetles (and avoid any damage of it coming down unscheduled). Not ever being one to let anything go to waste this was the catalyst for using wood heat on our small farm.

I have had this Stihl 028 Super for must be 6 or 7 years, got it long ago for a song and a dance and never really fiddled with it until now. Got it running mint and it really just screams through that hickory. Serial number is 22045655 (to help the experts with any applicable information, side note if anyone knows the age let me know otherwise Ill give Stihl a shout on Monday)

The bar was a little worn towards the ends due to what I assume was from an overtightened chain and looking at the sprocket it could use a change. So i figured I would do the 'ol rim sprocket conversion and a new stihl bar because I am going to be using this much more frequently.

Aside from that whenever I left it for a few days the bar oil would leak out pretty good from what I assume (and talking with a local stihl repair shop) is likely the oil pump seal. So I got one of those too because ya know, while I'm in there right?

When I started doing some research I noticed I didnt have a bar back plate, but I am not seeing any threaded holes for screws to hold one on. So thats question #1.

So anyways I kept on trucking with the take down. Needle bearing is shot so in the morning Ill have a cup of coffee and hit a few places for one local. On to the next thing. I get the gear off the oil pump and take out the 2 screws but the oil pump is not budging. Queue question #2. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something like a hidden screw? Im no stranger to engines but the parts on my 1953 Farmall Super M are a bit more robust and thats what I am used to, these small parts make me a little nervous that I am going to give them the Lenny treatment from 'Of Mice and Men'.

Of course this thread needs some pictures so here we are

Well I suppose thats enough rambling for now. Thanks in advance everyone!

-Andrew

 

[Poleman]

I just There’s a paper/composite gasket under the pump thes probably holding it on....might take a little tapping or prying with a flat screwdriver. Nothing to really break.
The Chain/cooling plate you are referring to are a press fitting with that’s on the bar nut studs that hold it on.
Here’s some pics for reference.

 

[tomdcoker]

Hi Everyone,

Newbie here on ArboristSite from Western NY. Decided to take the dive into a wood burning stove as I had to take down a 3' diameter pignut hickory tree a few weeks ago in order to get ahead of the long horned hickory borer beetles (and avoid any damage of it coming down unscheduled). Not ever being one to let anything go to waste this was the catalyst for using wood heat on our small farm.

I have had this Stihl 028 Super for must be 6 or 7 years, got it long ago for a song and a dance and never really fiddled with it until now. Got it running mint and it really just screams through that hickory. Serial number is 22045655 (to help the experts with any applicable information, side note if anyone knows the age let me know otherwise Ill give Stihl a shout on Monday)

The bar was a little worn towards the ends due to what I assume was from an overtightened chain and looking at the sprocket it could use a change. So i figured I would do the 'ol rim sprocket conversion and a new stihl bar because I am going to be using this much more frequently.

Aside from that whenever I left it for a few days the bar oil would leak out pretty good from what I assume (and talking with a local stihl repair shop) is likely the oil pump seal. So I got one of those too because ya know, while I'm in there right?

When I started doing some research I noticed I didnt have a bar back plate, but I am not seeing any threaded holes for screws to hold one on. So thats question #1.

So anyways I kept on trucking with the take down. Needle bearing is shot so in the morning Ill have a cup of coffee and hit a few places for one local. On to the next thing. I get the gear off the oil pump and take out the 2 screws but the oil pump is not budging. Queue question #2. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something like a hidden screw? Im no stranger to engines but the parts on my 1953 Farmall Super M are a bit more robust and thats what I am used to, these small parts make me a little nervous that I am going to give them the Lenny treatment from 'Of Mice and Men'.

Of course this thread needs some pictures so here we are

Well I suppose thats enough rambling for now. Thanks in advance everyone!

-Andrew

Take a long screwdriver and place the point in the space at the end of the pump where the numbers 2114 are . Put pressure on it using the side of the case as a fulcrum and bump the top of the driver to the right.. For the oil leak the best I can do is say "good luck". Some leak and some don't . Simple answer is to drain tank or place something under it ( ie. cardboard). The inside bar plate is held in place by the bar studs, see the flanges where they meet the crankcase. to remove them screw two bar nuts on and tight them together then use the bottom one to remove them. To replace them place some lock tight on the threads and use one nut to run them down. Let set overnight and remove the nut Good luck. Tom

 

[tomdcoker]

By the way welcome to the site. Also the saw looks as if it has seen very little use. One thing that I very seldom see is a chain stop of that type in that good condition. Tom

 

[Paraord]

Thanks guys! The screwdriver tap worked. Like I said I didnt know how robust these parts were so I didnt want to push my luck without asking.
Anyways a little work with a razor blade I broke in half to fit in there and I got all the gasket material off both the saw side and oil pump side. I did get that little bit off on the right hand side in the picture.

Im off to hit a few local spots for that needle bearing and going to ask if by some off chance they have that back plate.

 

[Paraord]

Ok further update. Went to a little shop and got the double needle bearing. Asked him about the backplate and going by the schematic and that i have the older chain tensioner it doesnt even show this having a back plate. So mystery 2 solved. No backplate.

After I put the new oil pump gasket on I was looking at the saw and noticed fhat6 there was bar oil.......seeping......from the darn filler cap. I'm an idiot. So I went back and got new caps and filled it with bar oil, set it on some cardboard, and will see what happens by tomorrow.

I suppose at the very least I learned some more about my saw!

 

[Paraord]

Well its been 2 days and no oil leaks on the cardboard. All is well. Thanks again guys!

 

[b fish]

I Really like the 028 Stihl!

 

[Paraord]

Its a sweet little saw. With an 18 bar it valliently chunked up 36" wide hickory trunk with stride. Took rolling it over with the truck but it sure got the job done when it was all I had

 

[b fish]

Have you ever run a 048 Stihl? Hell of a torque monster!

 

[ironman_gq]

Those 028's aren't the fastest or lightest but they do pull a pretty well and are just about bulletproof

 

[b fish]

Very dependable, solid saw design! Wish they still made em! The 028 Super is a Bit Stronger!