Newbie Needs Help! - Freeman Maple felled - PICS

[Grenfell]

Well, here's my second problem.

A strong thunderstorm felled one of my maples - I think it is Acer x freemanii . There were two of these maples, joined at the base. I'm not sure if they were two separate trees that developed close together, or if it was a single tree with two initial leaders.

Anway, one was felled by the storm and I've since sawed it up and here is the remaining twin. I'm worried that since the base is exposed like this, the tree is weak and could likely fall down as well. It is approx. 40-50' tall.

Should I remove this remaining tree as well? Thanks!

 

[treeseer]

Too bad this codominant defect was not corrected. Is there a tree or something the remaining trunk could be pulled toward, so it would be straighter? This woul dalso lessen risk of failure from any decay which may spread in from the apparent wound at the base.

 

[Grenfell]

Too bad this codominant defect was not corrected.

No kidding. Story of my property. All these mature trees and pretty well every one of them has a double leader. Norway spruce, red pine, black maple, silver maple, freeman maple, pin oak, white ash. All with double leaders that could have been corrected when the trees were young.

Is there a tree or something the remaining trunk could be pulled toward, so it would be straighter? This woul dalso lessen risk of failure from any decay which may spread in from the apparent wound at the base.

Unfortunately, no. It sits close to my hedge, which borders my neighbour's backyard. It's the wound at the base that concerns me. Is it better to simply remove it now, or try and save it but have it rot and eventually fall down anyway during another storm, etc. I was thinking of planting a red oak in its place.

Thanks for your reply!

 

[Grenfell]

Any more opinions?

Cut it or leave it? Thx!

 

[Elmore]

Cut it and replace it with ...hmmm...a Ginkgo. Much better choice than a Red Oak.

 

[Grenfell]

Ginkgo? Any specific reason for that tree?

I thought the red oak would make a good choice - strong, relatively fast growing, native to my area, etc.

 

[treeseer]

Ginkgo? Any specific reason for that tree?

The reason is, Elmore grows them and is fond of them. Not a bad species, but it ain't time to kill this maple tree imo.

I would invigorate the roots--aearate, light fert--and gradually prune the side of the tree so it becomes more symmetrical, and monitor the wound. It is not a given that the wound will cause terminal decay; young maples can wall off the rot before it goes thru the trunk.

 

[Grenfell]

Unfortunately, I'll probably have to cut it down now. I made a new post - there was a metal pipe inside the trunk.

Thank you for your advice nonetheless.

 

[Elmore]

Ginkgo

Ginkgo? Any specific reason for that tree?

Why a Ginkgo? Because it may quite possibly be the best, long-lived, relatively problem free and aesthetically pleasing tree that one can plant. They are known to live over 1,000 years and I have seen references of a tree that was 2,000 years old. Ginkgoes have an attractive and unusually shaped leaf (like a Maidenhair fern). Ginkgoes are noted for their outstanding yellow fall color. They are known for their lack of pest and disease problems and once established they are drought tolerant. My experience is that their root system is not as aggressive as many other trees...they don't heave curbs as much as say an old oak. Many are large spreading trees but there are other forms also. Fastigiate (columnar), narrow up-right spreading, dwarf and semi-dwarf, variegated and unusual forms such as 'ChiChi' and 'Tubiformis'. The most important consideration in choosing a variety of Ginkgo to plant, is to choose a male form as they will not produce the malodorous fruit. Female trees will produce this delightful and eye-catching fruit. heh heh...seriously, the fruit stinks so if planting a Ginkgo on a small property or in an area where you plan on entertaining, seek out a male grafted form. If you have a large property and a place to plant one out of the way of traffic, a sexually propagated (from seed) form should be fine and also a lot more economical to purchase. It is also important to choose a variety or cultivar that, when mature, fits the planting site. Like I said, many are large spreading trees. Look ahead at the trees expected mature size.
Yes I produce Ginkgo trees but why? I could grow 'Bradford' pear or even improved Red Maples and they grow a lot faster. Why Ginkgoes? Because I am into superior qualities and superior aesthetics. Frankly a Ginkgo is superior to most other trees in my book. By the way, I also grow a variety of Asian Maples, some Bald Cypress and a few other species and varieties here and there. Why? They also possess superior qualities.

"Nothing But The Best, And Later For The Garbage" -John Lee Hooker

 

[pbtree]

I hate metal pipes in a trunk - it seems like I find them most frequently when I do not have an extra chain with me on a jobbb

 

[Ekka]

One day I put brand new Rayco super teeth in my grinder with brand new bolts. I started the first stump and there was a metal rod, 1.5" dia and 6' long, it stopped the grinder and sheared 3 bolts, bent a few others and smashed the tips of the remaining teeth ... luckily the cutter wheel and shaft were OK, that set me back around $200!

I'm with you on metal rods.

IMO I would get rid of that tree, it's now half a tree, and sure it would probably live and stay a fair while, especially if you do what Treeseer reckons but ...

... I don't leaving things half done!

 

[treeseer]

I'm with you on that Ekka, the wound is catastrophic. Shame it was absued with that rod instead of simply solving the problem via pruning and maybe cabling. I like to buy time when the tree merits the effort, but this looks like replacement time.