Nik's Poulan Thread

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All, I remember someone posting a Poulan "Ridgid" variant on our sticky in the not too distant past that was a larger cc saw. There's a Ridgid 590 AKA 306/245 on eBay now that looks clean with the exception of a crack in the drive cover. I'm leaning towards it being a 306 with a 16 inch bar. Anyone else care to take a look and provide their opinion? Nice looking saw regardless. Max.
 
My youngest brother dropped off his 3400 last week to have me get it in running shape again.I was expecting that I'd have to rebuild the carb,but not the case.I had to replace the choke lever (I had that since last summer),re-tension the recoil,& replace the fuel filter,that was it.Oh yeah,I adjusted the carb.It runs & idles quite nicely.
 
Good morning. There's a nice later model Poulan 4000 on eBay today and what really impresses me is the drive cover decal. It's the cleanest most complete decal I've seen in years. Too bad the drive cover has the infamous missing chunk out of it. I hope to find one/some or possibly have a few of these made for applying to NOS chain brakes or replacement drive covers. Decal sets are available for the earlier P4000 saws and consist of two decals, not one. CAD comes in all forms, shapes and sizes, that's for sure. Max.
 
only my second poulan, missed a nice 5200 a month and a bit back. This is only the 2nd saw i've bought all year too.
20211206_160420.jpg
the 20" bar on it is all bent to hell, so its garbage. probably just run a 18 or something on it.
20211206_160410.jpg

Top end is mint, took it all apart, pressure and vac checked it, new carb kit, fuel line, plug etc and it should be good to go. Based on the limited wear, i'd guess this saw never had more than a couple tanks through it.
20211206_160743.jpg

Did a muffler mod, because thats a requirement for these saws according to everything i've read.
20211207_163505.jpg
20211207_163518.jpg
left the screen and baffle in it, drilled out the holes, and left the rear facing exhaust exits intact.

Will have to fire it up and see how it runs soon. No real expectations with this one, mostly just wanted to get a cheap saw to use as a loaner.
 
only my second poulan, missed a nice 5200 a month and a bit back. This is only the 2nd saw i've bought all year too.
View attachment 948304
the 20" bar on it is all bent to hell, so its garbage. probably just run a 18 or something on it.
View attachment 948305

Top end is mint, took it all apart, pressure and vac checked it, new carb kit, fuel line, plug etc and it should be good to go. Based on the limited wear, i'd guess this saw never had more than a couple tanks through it.
View attachment 948306

Did a muffler mod, because thats a requirement for these saws according to everything i've read.
View attachment 948307
View attachment 948308
left the screen and baffle in it, drilled out the holes, and left the rear facing exhaust exits intact.

Will have to fire it up and see how it runs soon. No real expectations with this one, mostly just wanted to get a cheap saw to use as a loaner.

might have a 20 here
 
Someone has to have done this? Come on, its the Christmas season and the time for giving!
Found this image on eBay, including the text "bar roll pins":
Screenshot_20211217-065158.png

My best guess about them being too short would be that they are wornout, or undersized ones installed.
Perhaps try to source new ones first, as I suspect that it could be a destructive removal process.
 
Found this image on eBay, including the text "bar roll pins":
View attachment 948988

My best guess about them being too short would be that they are wornout, or undersized ones installed.
Perhaps try to source new ones first, as I suspect that it could be a destructive removal process.
I have one I removed from a case I split. There is only one size and they slip into holes in the case. Problem is, over time they can slide in to the case . Obviously they are a Bi#$% to remove or extend. I'll figure it oput .
 
Any thoughts on the easy way to raise the Bar pins on an S25da? One pin is low and making it difficult to keep that bar on while assembling. I've tried heating the surrounding case.
Your post got me curious. I pulled the S25 CVA down off shelf.

I got nothing to help. Maybe if you can remove the roll pin and then you can buy longer to keep from sliding back to far? Is that what you have happening?
Pics are worth a 1000 words. Show us what you got going on.

ps25cva.jpgps25cvaa.jpgps25cvaaa.jpg
 
Wonder if by chance there is any gap between the bottom of the pin and the body of the saw? You would have to make something like a puller but it might give you better leverage. Put a short bend on a piece of wire and slide it down the inside of the pin and feel for it to drop off the end of the pin.
just throwing darts.
 

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