Nik's Poulan Thread

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Modifiedmark said:
Yes Carl, I have done that on some quickie mods for others and it works fine.

Myself, I don't care for the exhaust blowing right on the log and blowing crap all up and around.
Click to expand...

Mark, I never thought about that! Good point. Guess I better learn how to do some basic welding or maybe use the Husky kit.
 
a. palmer jr. said:
Wouldn't it be nice to own a tig welder? All I have is this AC/DC Hobart thing, never figured I'd try welding something like a muffler. Maybe I could braze it?
Click to expand...

Braze or gas weld is what I grew up with. Key to muffler/pipe work is to use a small tip and adjust the flame with the regulators.
 
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Stephen C. said:
No I have never messed with silicone and gas. We never soaked out slot car tires in gas. We used lighter fluid for a solvent. I should have mentioned that I would only install it on the outside surfaces of the boot. I think it would work but there are probably better materials out there, such as the stuff they use to reline gas tanks, but I don't have access to those other materials and I don't know what they do to rubber. Silicone likes rubber. If it is applied to the outside of the boot it should not see much gasoline since the boot operates under a partial vacuum and the outside surface is esentially dry for the most part. The silicone would just be drawn into the weather checking and cracks, preventing air from entering. Like I said it a last resort effort to fix something that is otherwise unobtainable.

Hey just thinking out loud...:msp_mellow:
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Stephen - your msg box is full. Please email me at [email protected] re the Remington saw. Thanks!
 
thomas72 said:
Take a good look at the piston. You can put them in backwards of course, but usually does not hurt anything as you have bridge ports. Also, look to see if the piston still has the ring retainer in it. Some of the older pistons would loose the retainer and the rings would just spin around the piston. Looks like a fun project.
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You are right on all counts. Retainer is long gone, rings spun all the way round the piston to the front. No real damage though. Plenty of my Macs have no retainers and they aren't junk. Since the saw is apart I'll do my best to replace the rings.

I've found another much better full wrap. One of the pawls on FM starter guts was broke off and flopping around in the cup. A quick peek through my 045/056 Stihl parts and I found a nice replacement assembly.

How does the oil pump and stop switch come out of this thing?

Chris B.
 
If I remember correctly you have to take the plunger out of the oil pump first then take the retaining nut off the oil pump and push it into the carb box. To remove the stop switch take off the plastic button. Since you do not have the Poulan tool you need to find a deep well socket that will fit a little shy than the outside diameter of the switch. Then gently take a mallet and tap the switch into the carb box as well. The problem with the old style pistons was that Poulan forgot to ping the retaining pin in place on a limited run. You may be able to find a drill bit that will fit into the retaining pin hole and then ping it into place. One pin holds both rings in place. You will actually loose the nice compressing you had, but the saw really was not designed to be a high compression engine, but an engine that will run 1,500-2,000 hours.
 
a. palmer jr. said:
Wouldn't it be nice to own a tig welder? All I have is this AC/DC Hobart thing, never figured I'd try welding something like a muffler. Maybe I could braze it?
Click to expand...

I have a Tig torch but just never got around to mastering it yet. In fact I only tried it once.

That is about to change in the near future though and my main goal is to be able to weld Magnesium
 
cbfarmall said:
You are right on all counts. Retainer is long gone, rings spun all the way round the piston to the front. No real damage though. Plenty of my Macs have no retainers and they aren't junk. Since the saw is apart I'll do my best to replace the rings.

I've found another much better full wrap. One of the pawls on FM starter guts was broke off and flopping around in the cup. A quick peek through my 045/056 Stihl parts and I found a nice replacement assembly.

How does the oil pump and stop switch come out of this thing?

Chris B.
Click to expand...

Sounds like your getting into it pretty good. I told you Thomas was the man in the know on those saws!



Dont forget if you want to sandblast that bar and such, we can take care of that.

Not to put pressure on you but the Poulan GTG is in 2 weeks or so and I want to run that saw there! :hmm3grin2orange:
 
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Modifiedmark said:
Sounds like your getting into it pretty good. Dont forget if you want to sandblast that bar and such, we can take care of that.

Not to put pressure on you but the Poulan GTG is in 2 weeks or so and I want to run that saw there! :hmm3grin2orange:
Click to expand...

That will be up to you! Once I get the replacement handlebar, it will need a bit of welding. Time is money.

I'll give you a call in a bit.

Chris B.
 
dirty from working disaster relief this week. Maintenance day is tomorrow for my heard of saws.

This is my only green meanie. Anyone got any "wild thing" stickers I can put on it since the 8500 decals are a little rare now days? :hmm3grin2orange:

P1020246.jpg


P1020243.jpg


P1020245.jpg


P1020242.jpg
 
Thanks S.
Yes, I got a couple PM's lol.
I do like it, but I'm up in the air as I like current saws/spares for working saws (or a spare box o parts if I'm regularly using an old one).
I love the way it cuts. Very torqy feeling.

Yeah, this set of storms has been rough. Lots of folks affected by it.
 
Modifiedmark said:
I have a Tig torch but just never got around to mastering it yet. In fact I only tried it once.

That is about to change in the near future though and my main goal is to be able to weld Magnesium
Click to expand...

I think there's a guy on youtube that shows how to weld magnesium with a tig. It looks similar to soldering. I've tried it before where I used to work. It takes a lot of practice to get it perfected. Those guys on American Chopper do a lot of tig work.
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I think there's a guy on youtube that shows how to weld magnesium with a tig. It looks similar to soldering. I've tried it before where I used to work. It takes a lot of practice to get it perfected. Those guys on American Chopper do a lot of tig work.
Click to expand...

It's been 35 years since I tig-welded anything. But if memory serves, magnesium would weld the same way as aluminum. Tungsten Inert Gas allows smaller and stronger welds than would a wire-fed method. With enough practice y'all should make nice welds that need no dressing with grinders. One thing I remember all too well is that the pretty light is several times stronger than ordinary welding light and Very Dark lenses are needed.
Igpoe:cheers:
 
igpoe said:
It's been 35 years since I tig-welded anything. But if memory serves, magnesium would weld the same way as aluminum. Tungsten Inert Gas allows smaller and stronger welds than would a wire-fed method. With enough practice y'all should make nice welds that need no dressing with grinders. One thing I remember all too well is that the pretty light is several times stronger than ordinary welding light and Very Dark lenses are needed.
Igpoe:cheers:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I got to get busy on that real soon. Done most of the research now just need to get to it. Well that and I need to pick up some pure tungsten.

Just have not had the time. I got a good hood with a Jackson automatic lens so I should be good to go there.

37, that is a nice 8500.
 

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