Nik's Poulan Thread

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67 Mustang said:
J, it's normal for that saw to spit back fuel through the carb. You'll especially notice that when tuning with the carb cover off, but I can't imagine it being so rich that it's getting wet through to the choke knob. The problem with tuning those is that when you replace the carb cover after tuning is that it's naturally rich because you've restricted the air flow by replacing the cover. It has to suck air through the foam filter. I usually compensate on the lean side and continue to adjust till it runs properly with the cover on. Try that before you break into the carb. Then check the metering lever.
Click to expand...

Great minds working together. Whew, I was sort of stabbing at the cause but I guess I'm not too far off. I went with metering lever as he stated the saw ran great otherwise. Although I am surprised that it didn't flood out with all that fuel being spewed. Good thought on it being a little rich on the Hi side.
Bob
 
OhioGregg said:
Yep, I agree with Bob. I run Woodland Pro synthetic from Baileys, at 40:1 in all my stuff. New & old, weedeater too. Thats what I ran in my gas R/C airplanes also, been awhile though.

I have several 4000's. There probably my favorite "all around saw". I used to use dino oil at 32:1 in em. You'll find they smoke alot less also with syn. 40:1. if at all.

4000Pics022.jpg



:cheers:
Gregg,
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replys Bob ,Gregg.
I have been running the ethanol free trufuel 50:1 , and the VP SE94 lately. I think I will add a little synth oil to the mix to richen it up, the thought of burning a cyl. in the old girl scares me.
 
Applehead said:
Thanks for the replys Bob ,Gregg.
I have been running the ethanol free trufuel 50:1 , and the VP SE94 lately. I think I will add a little synth oil to the mix to richen it up, the thought of burning a cyl. in the old girl scares me.
Click to expand...

Me becoming, or being "an old fart", tend to not like change. After 20+ years doing something a certain way it was a little worrisome to switch to the new fangled oil and less of it. :msp_scared: You still want to make sure your carb is set correctly, no matter what oil you use. I have been running 93 oct. premium fuel in mine also. But the last jug I mixed up, went back to regular 87 or 89 oct. I honestly can't see no difference. Its cheaper anyway. LOL

I got started on using synthetic oil from being in the R/C airplane hobby. It was a given that they use synthetic in the gasoline powered engines. I used Klotz syn. at 40:1 those, but switched to Woodland Pro, just because its easily obtainable, from Baileys. And it comes in the right size bottles to just dump a can in for a 2 gal. mix. Makes things easy for an old fart!!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
OhioGregg said:
Me becoming, or being "an old fart", tend to not like change. After 20+ years doing something a certain way it was a little worrisome to switch to the new fangled oil and less of it. :msp_scared: You still want to make sure your carb is set correctly, no matter what oil you use. I have been running 93 oct. premium fuel in mine also. But the last jug I mixed up, went back to regular 87 or 89 oct. I honestly can't see no difference. Its cheaper anyway. LOL

I got started on using synthetic oil from being in the R/C airplane hobby. It was a given that they use synthetic in the gasoline powered engines. I used Klotz syn. at 40:1 those, but switched to Woodland Pro, just because its easily obtainable, from Baileys. And it comes in the right size bottles to just dump a can in for a 2 gal. mix. Makes things easy for an old fart!!

:cheers:
Gregg,
Click to expand...

I have been curious for a long time why I see so many people on this site wasting their money on US 93 Octane fuel. All production chainsaw engines through out the world are designed to run on equivalent of US 87 Octane fuel. Some European engines are designed to run on the equivalent of US 85 Octane fuel. Higher octane does not mean that you get more power from it; it only means that the higher the octane number, the less likely that engine will pre-ignite (engine knock). The only reason to use higher octane fuel is if you have a very high compression engine (racing, not any production chainsaw engine). The higher the compression, the easier that engine will typically pre-ignite. If you engine knocks, increase octane; if it doesn't knock, then use the equivalent of US 87 fuel.

The US/Canada uses a different method to measure octane than Europe which gives different octane ratings. The European method gives an octane number that is 4+ higher than US for the identical fuel. The US uses RON+MON/2 to rate octane, Europe uses RON to rate octane. example: US 87 R+M/2 octane = Europe 91+ R octane fuel. Some European manufacturers mention a minimum of 91 octane for their engines in their manual, but they do not adequately describe that they are referring to RON octane. I have seen this in both Husqvarna and Stihl manuals, and I am sure in others.

Instead of spending money on 93 octane, spend it on a good synthetic oil. There is no comparison between the oils of 20 years ago, 30 years, 40 years, or 50 years ago. Your engine will be protected much better with it. If you don't want to change oil ratio, you will still find that the exhaust will smoke less unless you enjoy working in a cloud.
 
w8ye said:
It wouldn't hurt to try new diaphragms in the carb and to get the saw dust off the screen in the carb, off the outside of the metering diaphragm, and to change the fuel filter in the tank.
Click to expand...

diaphragms are like NEW... only reason I reused...

fuel filter is new.

carb is CLEAN as a whistle (Was clean when I opened it, BUT i went through it anyway...)


67 Mustang said:
J, it's normal for that saw to spit back fuel through the carb. You'll especially notice that when tuning with the carb cover off, but I can't imagine it being so rich that it's getting wet through to the choke knob. The problem with tuning those is that when you replace the carb cover after tuning is that it's naturally rich because you've restricted the air flow by replacing the cover. It has to suck air through the foam filter. I usually compensate on the lean side and continue to adjust till it runs properly with the cover on. Try that before you break into the carb. Then check the metering lever.
Click to expand...

I noticed that as well.... I've compensated (Somewhat for it...not sure HOW MUCH difference it would make... off to try again. I'm about ready to shoot a video! :mad::cheers:

moparman said:
I have been curious for a long time why I see so many people on this site wasting their money on US 93 Octane fuel. All production chainsaw engines through out the world are designed to run on equivalent of US 87 Octane fuel. Some European engines are designed to run on the equivalent of US 85 Octane fuel. Higher octane does not mean that you get more power from it; it only means that the higher the octane number, the less likely that engine will pre-ignite (engine knock). The only reason to use higher octane fuel is if you have a very high compression engine (racing, not any production chainsaw engine). The higher the compression, the easier that engine will typically pre-ignite. If you engine knocks, increase octane; if it doesn't knock, then use the equivalent of US 87 fuel.
If you don't want to change oil ratio, you will still find that the exhaust will smoke less unless you enjoy working in a cloud.
Click to expand...


EXACTLY... I agree... 93 octane actually makes LESS power... the higher the #, the slower it burns!


My wife HATES it when it's running rich... "oohhhh... YOU STINK..." :laugh:
 
The trufuel is 91 octane I believe, the SE94 is... 94 :msp_w00t:
If there was an Ethanol free 87 available here I would use that, but to my knowledge there is not.
I despise using Ethanol in my machines and I will pay a premium not to.
 
Applehead said:
The trufuel is 91 octane I believe, the SE94 is... 94 :msp_w00t:
If there was an Ethanol free 87 available here I would use that, but to my knowledge there is not.
I despise using Ethanol in my machines and I will pay a premium not to.
Click to expand...

Very wise, grasshopper. If you have to use corn squeezins, then use it up quickly, and use at least a semi synthetic oil, if not a full one.
 
crap

Picked up this beutey off the innernets for 75$.
I only needed the left side of the handle assy. lol :bang:
 
Applehead said:
Picked up this beutey off the innernets for 75$.
I only needed the left side of the handle assy. lol :bang:
Click to expand...

Man that blows. I've been pretty lucky with fleabay so far. Only had one turd like that so far. Took THREE MONTHS of back and forth with the seller to finally get things somewhat resolved. The 'junk flipper' types that buy crap on CL and yard sales for fleabay resale (without knowing jack about it......or caring to) are the worst.
 
Wards Powr-Kraft

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Am I in the right thread?

Model # is TMC24089-A, got it for $15 it's in really nice shape. Looking for an IPL but first need to confirm who made it.
 
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briantutt said:
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attachment.php


Am I in the right thread?

Model # is TMC24089-A, got it for $15 it's in really nice shape. Looking for an IPL but first need to confirm who made it.
Click to expand...


The thread would probably be the one for Remington saws ... they made most of the Wards saws (very clean one here, I must add). There is also a separate thread (Beg for Manuals) for the IPL ...

If you provide more info, the Remington model resemblance can most likely be pinned down.

Good luck!
 

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