Nik's Poulan Thread

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Carl, I hope your not serious about trying to use Yamabond on that divider :msp_scared:

What were you thinking?

That divider needs to be fastend, welded, secured or however you want to describe it. Yamabond is a sealant. Use a good gas proof epoxy of your choice on it. JB Weld would be fine...

I agree that epoxy would be the way to go if I were to pull the case apart and can grind off the paint around the hole. Epoxy needs a ruff surface.

Ridgid material is what failed over time so I think something flexable would work.

Can't tell if there is enough room for a small bar accross the oil tank side of the hole with a #6-32 tapped hole. Then I could just bolt it in with sealer around it. Kind of like a drywall anchor.

I need a dental mirror so I can study the layout in there.
Carl.
 
I got this weeks batch of GTG saws ready to go and loaded in the truck. Here's what I am bringing. Not one modern saw in the bunch.

5200
245A
4000
43
44
S25CVA x 2
PP455
Homelite 1050
Homelite 750
Stihl 090
Stihl 07S
Pioneer P60

I might throw the Stihl 076 Super in if I have room.

Them all look "modern to me" ;) well, except for the 43 & 44 LOL.
The only non-Poulan I have is the 385xp. But I guess by most accounts, Husqvarna is kinda the mothership of Poulan now. So I guess technically, its a POULAN...:D

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Hope you fellas have a good time. I know 67 is gonna miss being up there! Ill try to have him come over and help me with some trees, so I can lessen the pain of him not being with all the Poulan heads! But there is always next year!

:cheers: to a good time. Nik, be careful, and dont spill your beer!
 
I agree that epoxy would be the way to go if I were to pull the case apart and can grind off the paint around the hole. Epoxy needs a ruff surface.

Ridgid material is what failed over time so I think something flexable would work.

Can't tell if there is enough room for a small bar accross the oil tank side of the hole with a #6-32 tapped hole. Then I could just bolt it in with sealer around it. Kind of like a drywall anchor.

I need a dental mirror so I can study the layout in there.
Carl.

Hey Carl, if you're looking for a contact adhesive & sealant then check out SEAL-ALL, it's good stuff. Seal-All Adhesive Product Information
 
Does anyone here know what the ring gap should be for a s25da saw. I cant seem to find a source for new ones and wanted to see if my old ones were acceptable.
Thanks
 
3314

Well guys I did it. I bought it from that guy on ebay that is selling the 3314 Remans for $57. It came all sealed up up in a Poulan box, brand new bar and chain, scrench, manual, and some mix. The saw looks like somone used it once and returned it, and I probably found out why. The thing was bear to start, like 20 pulls, some poppin, some running and stallin. Once I got it to run I adjusted the carb and played with it a little. Now cold she'll start on 2 pulls, hot one. Did a couple cuts, and it's not too bad for what it is. Came with the Oregon 91VJ chain.

So I let cool and I just could not leave it alone, put it on the work bench and started to take it appart, now at this time I got saw mabe an hour lol. I pulled the muffler put it in a vise, heated the seem and uncrimped it, pulled the diffuser and drilled more holes and enlarged the current ones. Took the body and sliced a slit on the PTO side, and pulled the plate that kinda covers the front outlets. So I heated it up and recrimped it back together and reinstalled it. On the carb side there is a cover that holds the felt AF in place, but almost completely covers the AF, I just took a sissor and cut as much out as I could without killing it as it still hold the AF in place. I also replaced the chain with an Oregon 91VXL.

Wow what a difference, after reajusting the carb, this thing has got some power now. I don't have a vids but with the mods and chain she rips through the wood now. Also with the muffler opened up it sounds really good too.:rock:

After looking it over I see how the carb works, it's a really small venturi carb, it's a Walbro WTA-30 and that comes in at 7.9mm, but the strato valve is much larger and comes in just after part throttle, and looks like it injects the air into the strato ports, I thought mabe a larger carb would be nice but, I'm not sure adding more air would work as the strato valve adds a load of air. Still learning these strato engines. I'm a little afraid to start grinding the exhaust port yet until I learn more so that'll have to wait.
 
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I just relized that Oregon 91VJ chain is basicaly a skip tooth safty chain, damn, it's got double bumper gaurds followed by the cutter. No wonder these things cut so crappy when new.:rolleyes2: Even 91VG would cut better. Apparently it's an OEM only chain as it's not even listed on Oregons website.
 
Okay, so I finally got fuel lines. However, a couple of problems. First, how the heck do I attach the fuel line to the fitting inside the tank? Second, there is another rotted line under the air filter - how do I get at that?


It's not really hard, just a bit aggrevating the first couple of times.
Take VERY careful note of where a line starts and ends BEFORE unplugging it.
Replace them one at a time and as my Dad used to say when I would tell him I didn't know how to do something....."You won't be able to say that tomorrow"!!!!


Mike
 
306 recoil problem

Any one have any tips for fixing a recoil on a 306A? I put a new rope in and cleaned everything out. The dawgs on the bottom of the flywheel are free and not binding as well. The issue is that when you try to start the saw sometimes the spring must skip off of the tooth on the bottom of the recoil spool. This leaves me to pull the flywheel and re tension the recoil. The spring is not broken, and the tooth on the spool looks ok. Any advice if there is a mod to fix this?

I was thinking of grinding a bit off of the tooth on the spool to make it a bit deeper and give the spring something better to bite on. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Ohio Poulan GTG

Just got back from the GTG and the weather was perfect, the hospitality great, and the participants enjoyable.

Had a great time with the saws and all the fine people. Looking forward to next year.

Jim
 
what non-poulan saws is everyone bringing? I plan on bringing, in addition to Poulans, my Dolkita as I'd like to see how it stacks up against Gregg's 385 and John's ms460. If Mike's gonna bring his 6400, I'll bring my ms361.

Sorry Nik but I did'nt make it today. I had some very serious family issues come up. It's killing me not to be there though. And Bradley is tore apart over it also Mike, he was really looking forward to being able to run your little saw again.
 
Just got back from the GTG and the weather was perfect, the hospitality great, and the participants enjoyable.

Had a great time with the saws and all the fine people. Looking forward to next year.

Jim

I just got home as well, I-75 was down to one lane approaching the Ohio River bridge and 2 lanes for the next few miles. I have some videos and stills that I will need to load, but I expect it will be tomorrow before I get to it.
 
thank guys

RCWoodsplitter; hey guys, i have a poulan 4620 avx start up cold 4 or 5 pull let seat 5 to 10 mins. start up 1 or 2 pull. let seat 20 to 30 mins. 7 to 12 pull to start. new spark plug air filter. gas filter is good . new fuel . thank you ron. Originally Posted 9-12-2011 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i put e3.12 spark plug in the saw to replace the rcj7y start up hot 1 or 2 pull 1/2 choke run good:rock:i all so get the tool to adjust the caburbetor. tool part #530035560. on amazon $5.29 +$2.99 for shipping.
 
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I just relized that Oregon 91VJ chain is basicaly a skip tooth safty chain, damn, it's got double bumper gaurds followed by the cutter. No wonder these things cut so crappy when new.:rolleyes2: Even 91VG would cut better. Apparently it's an OEM only chain as it's not even listed on Oregons website.

Yes, it seems to be only OEM, and not only on small Poulans.

My 3314 came from NH, $4.97, bare from the case out on the clutch side, and with a new 16" bar. I took the muffler off and replaced it with one of the two piece ones found on earlier saws. Little grinding here and there to make it fit, but it runs quite well. Seemed like a new saw they scavenged parts from, and then blew out the door at a reopening. New parts ran me less than $35.

Not the cheapest saw I own, but fills a need for a loaner saw.
 
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