Noobie Help with Bar Selection

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mattgatten

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Ok, I'm fairly new (and addicted to chain saws). I've got a wonderf Stihl 026 that I completely went over and cleaned and tuned up. It's got a Stihl Rollomatic bar on it. I have 3 full chisel .325 chains I've been using.

I see lots of bars on TV and in pictures here that have Oregon stamped on them, among others.

Here's my questions, what makes one better than another and what makes a real good chain saw bar? What are the various 'premium brands' and what are the 'good values'? i.e. Best ones for the money.

Thanks in advance guys,
Matt
 
There usually are no point in getting anything but Stihl bars, unless you have some very special needs, or find them too expensive.

Oregon usually are cheaper, but that is reflected in the quality - they are perfectly OK for the price, but not as good as Stihl.

Just a note, Canadian sold Stihl bars usually are rebadged Oregons, and some have slipped into the US as well, when the German made Stihl ones have been in short supply.

If it says "Rollomatic" only on the bar, it is either an old one, or a rebadged Oregon.
 
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I was just wondering if there were any major differences. Build quality, etc.

I was thinking about picking up an extra for my 026 or putting an 18" on it rather than the 16" that's on it now. Yeah, I would have to buy new chains but I think I would enjoy the extra 2" when I'm out bucking logs.

I'm a woodturner and folks usually call me and say, "I have a tree of type XXX down, do you want any of it". So I don't do any felling. Sometimes the logs are really thick and I have to roll them and cut more than once. Not a problem with the 026 but the extra 2" would save me some time. :)

Thanks again,
Matt
 
Both Stihl and Oregon bars are of good quality. Stihls are a little harder I believe, and will last a little longer... But you would only notice it if you were makin' a living with your saw everyday like a timber faller.

Oregon Powermatch bars are priced affordably and will be perfect for your needs.

If you want to spend just a little more and stay with the Stihl ES... you can't go wrong there either.

It pretty much boils down to your preference in appearance I guess... :)

Gary
 
I was just wondering if there were any major differences. Build quality, etc.

I was thinking about picking up an extra for my 026 or putting an 18" on it rather than the 16" that's on it now. Yeah, I would have to buy new chains but I think I would enjoy the extra 2" when I'm out bucking logs.

I'm a woodturner and folks usually call me and say, "I have a tree of type XXX down, do you want any of it". So I don't do any felling. Sometimes the logs are really thick and I have to roll them and cut more than once. Not a problem with the 026 but the extra 2" would save me some time. :)

Thanks again,
Matt

If you really need an 18" bar as your main one, you need a larger saw as well.....

.. but for occational use it is OK.
 
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On a 026 I'd stay with the laminate bar for the reduced weight. Get a Stihl Rolomatic E bar you'll likely never wear it out unless your just brutal on your saw.

As for size?? I would stick with the 16" on the 026 for full time use... just my opinion..... the 026 will run an 18" (or even a 20") for some occasional bigger stuff, but if your gonna run it on there full time the 16" is definitely the best fit.

I had an 18" on my MS260 when I bought it and opted down to the 16" bar for full time use. It pulled the 18" fine but it pulls the 16 better, and I like better :D

Like CU said you might be better off with a larger saw to run a longer bar, say a MS440 or MS460 with 20" and 24" bars. :cheers: (if you truly have CAD you'll be looking for an excuse to get a bigger saw anyway :laugh:)

BTW I still have the 18" and a few chains I'd let go of PM me if your interested.
 
On a 026 I'd stay with the laminate bar for the reduced weight. Get a Stihl Rollomatic E bar you'll likely never wear it out unless your just brutal on your saw.
As for size?? I would stick with the 16" on the 026 for full time use... just my opinion..... the 026 will run an 18" (or even a 20") for some occasional bigger stuff, but if your gonna run it on there full time the 16" is definitely the best fit.

I had an 18" on my MS260 when I bought it and opted down to the 16" bar for full time use. It pulled the 18" fine but it pulls the 16 better, and I like better :D

Like CU said you might be better off with a larger saw to run a longer bar, say a MS440 or MS460 with 20" and 24" bars. :cheers: (if you truly have CAD you'll be looking for an excuse to get a bigger saw anyway :laugh:)

BTW I still have the 18" and a few chains I'd let go of PM me if your interested.


You got that right, no additional comments at all really - just want to point out what you said abour Rollomatic E vs. ES - totally agree!!!! :clap: :clap:
 
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Thanks for the good info guys. Rollomatic E. Is it a good idea to have a spare bar for your saw? I mean, how often do you say 'man, I wish I had another bar?' Keep in mind, I mainly just buck logs for turning.

Thanks again,
Matt
 
Two saw plan

If I were you, I'd leave the 16" on the 026, thats a perfect bar for it. Grab a little bit bigger saw for the bigger wood. I would go with at least a MS440 or 372XP. Both great saws, only problem, you may have a hard time finding a new 440, there are always used out there too. Check out the Tradin' Post on this site and craigslist. Ebay is generally considered a no-no for saws.
 
I use both

I have several bars for each of my saws I have the factory bars that came with the saws and I usually buy oregon bars as a replacement to save a few bucks have never had trouble with either though I don't use my saws to make a living

I usually carry an extra bar and chain in the truck for each when I go cutting

on the 460 I use hard nose and beaten up or well used chain when I cut in dirty conditions or when removing stumps..
 
OK! I know I'm gona hear it on this one. A 20" is fine it will pull fine.(IMHO) Stihl even offers one for it. But I would use a semi chisel.As for bars, Oregon Chains suck IMO, not sure about the bars. I have a few in my garage 14" & 2@16" I'll never use them I don't think. As for their chains for me they dull way to quick and don't cut fast enough. Go to baileys they have some good prices on bars.

http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?CatID=49

I have had good luck with GB. Woodland pro is more expensive. Shop around.

For something inexpensive laser pro isn't to bad. I haven't had any problems with them.
http://www.cutterschoice.com/cgi-bi...s=new_us&category=Guide Bars&s_category_id=17

Good luck
 
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Good stuff, thanks. Which semi-chisels would you recommend? I see lots of sets of chains running around on ebay. Just the model number would be fine. By full chisel, that's the RS chains, right?
 
Good stuff, thanks. Which semi-chisels would you recommend? I see lots of sets of chains running around on ebay. Just the model number would be fine. By full chisel, that's the RS chains, right?

Depends on bar size.What are the drive links? Should say on the side of bar.A semi won't dull as quickly in dirty conditions as a chisel chain will. And is easier to sharpen.Again I would stay away from Oregon. but that only my ouwn opinion. A lot of people out here like them
 
Semi chisel is 'RM' or 'RMC'. That would use the same link count, gauge, and pitch as your 'RS' or 'RSC'. Just the shape of the cutter is different, they're more rounded on the corners that allows them to be more efficient in dirty wood.

As far as what Mantis said, I dont understand how semi chisel would be easier for the saw to pull on a longer bar, same number of teeth and same size cutter.

I've never used any Oregon product as I'm still using my bars on my saws that came with them. Haven't tried their chain because I'm very happy with my Stihl chain and have no reason to switch.
 
As far as what Mantis said, I dont understand how semi chisel would be easier for the saw to pull on a longer bar, same number of teeth and same size cutter.

Because semi does not cut as deep!(take as much off) You can feel the diff.between the two
 
I'd recommend a second bar and chain that you carry with you so that in the event you trap the saw while bucking (particularly large logs) you have the option to unbolt the stuck bar and install the second bar and free the first bar. The other alternative to this problem of course is a second chainsaw.
 
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